Suspension Sway bar Problems after Install
I talked to George last night and he said he had bolt on clamps that would cure the movement issue on Rev B bars (without the welded on washers). He said to stop by anythime and he would install them for free. Very nice of him to stand by his products. Please call George if you have any issues and give him a chance to make it right.
Dan
Dan
so...if i'm planning on ordering a rear sway bar in the next month, should i be wary of which one i get? if i stick with madness, should i make sure i get the newest revision, which hopefully they will have figured out by then. that would be the one without the washers and with the bends instead, designed to work with H-sport springs, which i plan to get? or should i go with another company?
this is primarily for more fun during the daily drive with an occasional driver course.
this is primarily for more fun during the daily drive with an occasional driver course.
you might check with RandyBMC before placing the order and ask for how others have done with the current version of the madness bar. Or you could consider the tubular rear bar from H-sport. Very light weight. Beefy.
The ALTA 22mm rear anti-sway bar has seemed to become the favorite "standard issue". Uses the lateral movement plates, similar to the Madness Rev0 and RevA bars, but with three holes that are all usable.
Mr. or Ms. Racer may opt for the H-Sport Competition tubular chrome-moly bar. Less weight, more price. A 22.1mm effective size in reference to a solid steel bar.
Quality is much more important than size or adjustability!
Cheers,
Ryan
Mr. or Ms. Racer may opt for the H-Sport Competition tubular chrome-moly bar. Less weight, more price. A 22.1mm effective size in reference to a solid steel bar.
Quality is much more important than size or adjustability!
Cheers,
Ryan
I've heard nothing negative about the Alta also. However, the last photo of one I saw installed (about a month ago), was a 2-holer. I couldn't find this product on their website moments ago, so I was unable to verify that...
I have the Alta bar and would recommend it highly. The quality is top notch, and it does work really well.
The one I have is a 2 hole version, I don't think they make one with 3 holes. That being said I have mine set on the softer setting and don't feel the need to go beyond that. I autocross my Mini and the new bar definetly makes the car rotate better. IMHO if the bar is designed correctly you shouldn't need to have more than 2 holes.
Hope that helps.
03CooperS
The one I have is a 2 hole version, I don't think they make one with 3 holes. That being said I have mine set on the softer setting and don't feel the need to go beyond that. I autocross my Mini and the new bar definetly makes the car rotate better. IMHO if the bar is designed correctly you shouldn't need to have more than 2 holes.
Hope that helps.
03CooperS
I installed my H-Sport Competition rear anti-roll bar along with ALTA's turnbuckle end-links this evening. The part quality is top-notch on both products, with helpful directions and all the equipment needed for a smooth install. I put the H-Sport bar on my stone-flat to check flatness (critical for an anti-roll bar), and it was dead-on flat 
As you can see above, I set the bar on the middle holes, and with the end-links one turn longer than stock. This is a middle-of-the-road setting, allowing me to adjust either way according to my findings. The vast majority of the on-power understeer is POOF, gone. Low-speed on-power cornering will enduce a touch of oversteer with my current settings. Medium to high speed on-power cornering, the car still pushes, but only a whiff. Off power steering is highly dependant on cornering radius; from basically neutral to some oversteer. Obviously my in-car time is limited, so these are just initial findings. The car is awe-inspiring now with the sheer traction and G-loading it can yank in corners. I said in the past that you don't have to brake for corners with the MINI. Now, it's totally accurate; not even a down shift really is necessary, because you can carry SO much speed through corners it's simply amazing. The car does corner flatter due to the HUGE rear bar now, and powering out of corners results in less inside wheelspin than stock anti-roll bars. My initial impression of the cars' on-center feel was one of numbness and lack of feedback. This may be a function of my end-link length, so I'll get back to you on what I do there. Perhaps that the car just pulls so hard in cornering now that the on-center feel is the same, but relatively dead feeling. It's just perception, and we suck at it!
Cheers, and highly impressed.
Ryan

As you can see above, I set the bar on the middle holes, and with the end-links one turn longer than stock. This is a middle-of-the-road setting, allowing me to adjust either way according to my findings. The vast majority of the on-power understeer is POOF, gone. Low-speed on-power cornering will enduce a touch of oversteer with my current settings. Medium to high speed on-power cornering, the car still pushes, but only a whiff. Off power steering is highly dependant on cornering radius; from basically neutral to some oversteer. Obviously my in-car time is limited, so these are just initial findings. The car is awe-inspiring now with the sheer traction and G-loading it can yank in corners. I said in the past that you don't have to brake for corners with the MINI. Now, it's totally accurate; not even a down shift really is necessary, because you can carry SO much speed through corners it's simply amazing. The car does corner flatter due to the HUGE rear bar now, and powering out of corners results in less inside wheelspin than stock anti-roll bars. My initial impression of the cars' on-center feel was one of numbness and lack of feedback. This may be a function of my end-link length, so I'll get back to you on what I do there. Perhaps that the car just pulls so hard in cornering now that the on-center feel is the same, but relatively dead feeling. It's just perception, and we suck at it!
Cheers, and highly impressed.
Ryan
Wow Ryan! Thanks for the info and photos. I have 2 questions for you, if you don't mind:
1. I noticed that the bar has no postive stops for lateral/side-to-side movement. I suppose the bends are to stop such movement? Curious to know if you tried sliding it to the left and right checking for such travel...
2. Price? Pleasd do share. Before H-Sport only sold the rear with the front bar, but I hear that they sell this comp bar separately...
Thanks again for the scoop! I just got their rear cntrl arms and they appear very well made and just look awesome
_________________
2003 IB MCS
1. I noticed that the bar has no postive stops for lateral/side-to-side movement. I suppose the bends are to stop such movement? Curious to know if you tried sliding it to the left and right checking for such travel...
2. Price? Pleasd do share. Before H-Sport only sold the rear with the front bar, but I hear that they sell this comp bar separately...
Thanks again for the scoop! I just got their rear cntrl arms and they appear very well made and just look awesome

_________________
2003 IB MCS
Hi TonyB:
1. The bar uses its' bends to limit lateral movement (like the stock bar). I did check this, because it's been such a problem with other bars. With my H-Sport springs, the H-Sport rear anti-roll bar does not interfere on either side at full excursion. No problems here.
2. The H-Sport Competition rear anti-roll bar is $230 from Randy, plus shipping (which was $12 to Detroit)
Hope this helps!
Ryan
1. The bar uses its' bends to limit lateral movement (like the stock bar). I did check this, because it's been such a problem with other bars. With my H-Sport springs, the H-Sport rear anti-roll bar does not interfere on either side at full excursion. No problems here.
2. The H-Sport Competition rear anti-roll bar is $230 from Randy, plus shipping (which was $12 to Detroit)
Hope this helps!
Ryan
Ryan,
That helps very much!
You now have the weekend to really dig into some corners now
Good luck with your tapping project in tight quarters. Kindly share more of your impressions, if you like...
Tony
That helps very much!
You now have the weekend to really dig into some corners now
Good luck with your tapping project in tight quarters. Kindly share more of your impressions, if you like...
Tony
I have the new Madness sway bar and it can move from side to side ... but is this a problem? The movement has no effect on the way it limits roll so will only be a problem if it hits part of the suspension. I have not noticed any extra noise over the last 1500 miles. Has anyone actually had a problem because of sideways movement?
Ryan, I installed my H Sport Rear Swaybar the same day you did, however I used the softer setting, stock springs and stock end links. I thought I would try the softer setting because there is minor clearence with stock springs, maybe 1/8" to 3/16".
It's hard to tell if it stays the same after you put the wheels back on and lower it.
After a few miles of getting use to it I'll see if I can go to 2nd setting.
I can say that if this puppy moves from side to side I certainly can't tell, but I can tell a dramatic difference over the stock Swaybar. It's hard to explain, other than saying it's more neutral steering. You can power thru corners with much more confidence and speed. You actually don't turn the steering wheel as much as before,and the car is flatter during the turn.
I was unsure if I should do this mod, being a street driver, but It's added a little more fun to the Mini experience. Itzamazn
It's hard to tell if it stays the same after you put the wheels back on and lower it.
After a few miles of getting use to it I'll see if I can go to 2nd setting.
I can say that if this puppy moves from side to side I certainly can't tell, but I can tell a dramatic difference over the stock Swaybar. It's hard to explain, other than saying it's more neutral steering. You can power thru corners with much more confidence and speed. You actually don't turn the steering wheel as much as before,and the car is flatter during the turn.
I was unsure if I should do this mod, being a street driver, but It's added a little more fun to the Mini experience. Itzamazn
thanks for the updates guys...i'm leaning toward the H-sport rear swaybar vs. madness right now. do you guys think that going with H-sport swaybar with H-sport springs should be a good match/fit? that is, eliminate the rubbing that we're concerned about?
A new problem has arised becaue of the movement. It has worked all of the lube out, and I get a nasty squeak from the joint of the bar. It is so annoying. I have to take it appart again, and do something about it. I hope I kept the lube the gave me......... I wish they kept the little washers that kept it in place... was it really worth the 2 dollars they save to remove it?
Recognize that lateral movement can be a problem, but is there any reason why you can't just use some stainless steel hose clamps on the bar inside the bushing mounts to prevent lateral movement. Works on early 911's! :smile:
Pilo, I will confirm the same. I got (still have) a very loud squeaky sound a few weeks ago. This is particularly prounounced in the morning and when bouncing the car. A quick inspection revealed that the lateral movement strips the rubber bushings under the clamps of the blue lube. I'm actually getting bits and pieces of of the black rubber material flaking-off and sticking to the bar in some places (on the blue lube). I guesstimate that this is due to heat/friction, because there is not sufficient lubricant for the bar to rotate as it should.
As the thread on MINI2 shared, you can get the collars, or request the previous version bar with the welded positive stops. Not a pleasant experience for all involved, but there is a remedy...
As the thread on MINI2 shared, you can get the collars, or request the previous version bar with the welded positive stops. Not a pleasant experience for all involved, but there is a remedy...
Locking collars are now available to anyone who has purchased our sway bar and is experiencing lateral movement. Just let us know who you are and where to send them and we will get them right out to you.
Thanks for everyones patience.
Thanks for everyones patience.
I just did the instalation of my Madness rev. B bar. This is the first time I've taken apart a perfectly good car, and WOWZAH! I'm hooked!
One thing I noticed, in regard to the lateral movement issue, is that the stock bar was under tention in its mounts and wouldn't even roate in the bushings until I loosened three of the four bolts. Has anyone tried shimming the Madness bushings to tighten them? I plan on giving it a try. But I'm requesting the collars just in case!!
One thing I noticed, in regard to the lateral movement issue, is that the stock bar was under tention in its mounts and wouldn't even roate in the bushings until I loosened three of the four bolts. Has anyone tried shimming the Madness bushings to tighten them? I plan on giving it a try. But I'm requesting the collars just in case!!
I just returned back from a business trip and I received the swaybar collars from the Madness folks (thanks George). Sorry if this has already been stated previously, but where do you install the collars? I am assuming the inside of each clamp?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Thanks in advance for your help.
>>They go on the outside of the bushing clamps. First make sure the bar is centered and lubed, if needed, and then clamp her down.
Thanks TonyB! Thanks again for the pulley party here in NorCal. What an amazing transformation. I'll get these on the swaybar in the next few minutes.
Take care,
Thanks TonyB! Thanks again for the pulley party here in NorCal. What an amazing transformation. I'll get these on the swaybar in the next few minutes.
Take care,
I called H-sport today and they told me that they don't recommend thier rear sway bar for street use... They said it is too stiff. Since you installed it, can you give me some feedback on how it feels on the strrets?



