Has anyone installed a WebbSport Extreme Rear Sway Bar?

If so, how would you rate it?
Does it operate silently without creaks and clunks?
Do you think it's worth the significantly higher price than other bars?

Here's a link to the bar I'm referring to for anyone who hasn't seen this product.

http://store.webbmotorsports.com/ind...ab7efea0f4c45a

 

I installed a Webb Extreme Sway Bar about three months ago and it's going strong with no noise at all. I chose it for a few reasons that include not having to separate the car from the sub-frame (I cut the old bar out) and the bar just makes sense from an engineering point of view.

Putting the new bar in was a little challenging since there were no real instructions and it took Webb about a month or so to email me back about assembly questions I had. Randy could really use some customer-service training...

Here's what I learned through trial and error:

1. Before installation, place the bar on the ground with both aluminum arms slid into place and mark a spine at each end so you can tell where level is once it's in.
2. Jack up the car and put jack stands under each side so that the car is stable. You'll be under it so double check it before climbing under.
3. Cut out the old bar (near to where it turns from under the body towards the shock tower) with a recipricating saw and a metal-cutting blade. I had to use two blades to get through the bar.
4. Slide the Webb bar between the frame and the body.
5. Install the housings and bushings at each end of the bar. I had to loosen both ends a couple of times until I had the bar turning somewhat freely. Also, double check to make sure you've installed the plastic bushings correctly.
6. Slide the aluminum arms on each end of the bar so that they end up slightly below level when the car is back on the ground. Tighten them up so that they are at the end of the bar. This'll give you the clearance you'll need.
7. Adjust both end links to ensure that there is no pre-load on either one. You may have to do it a couple of times to get it right.
8. When you're done, double check all your bolts. Lower the car and check that all the parts clear the suspension, wheels, and so on.

On my first try, I ended up with one side of the car up about 1/2" higher than the other so I had to do the end link adjustment again (I had preload on them by mistake the first time).

I've been VERY happy with the bar and I've been able to really fine tune the stiffness so it really matches my driving style. I'd recommend it if you don't mind the spending the money. Email me if you have any install or other questions.

 

Daren. Thanks for your very detaled response. Your installation tips will come in very handy. Unlike you I'll have to lower the subframe to remove my current bar because I don't want to damage it.

I just have a question concerning jacking the car. Until now I've only used my trolley jack because I've never needed to crawl under the car. Now that I have to jack the car and put it on axle stands, where is the best place to jack it from and where should I place the axle stands?

 

I was wondering the same thing, just be very careful.

 

As you only need the back of the car off the ground, you can jack from the front jack point (plastic 'box' near the frame rail) until the rear jack point is high enough to get the jack stand underneath. Repeat for other side.

Here is Randy's rear sway how-to. Nice to have pics.

 

If you want to keep your existing bar then you'll have to drop the subframe. I went with the "Cortez-burn-the-ship" method and cut the bar. I figured that I could always get another stock bar from someone in my MINI club so the potential trouble (and wanting to be able to do the whole job solo) wasn't worth it.

If you look at the link that Eric posted, you can see a good spot to cut the bar in Randy's photo in step 2. I cut it as close to the curve as possible and I didn't have any trouble keeping the rest of the area safe. Just take your time. One note about Randy's instructions is that they are for a "traditional" sway bar and not for the Extreme bar. They're helpful for removing the old bar and understanding what you're getting yourself into but they are worthless for installing the new bar.

As for jacking, I used the front jack point with a floor jack and raised the car until I could get the jack stand under the back point. Repeat on the other side and you should be kosher.

Good luck!