Door lock problems
#451
'03 MCS Passenge *and* Driver door.
Driver door had a slipped cable that pushed back into position. Holding for now.
Passenger door required a new latch mechanism (I still can't believe the Stealer wanted $350 for labor). It has been noted before but I'll reiterate here that the new system uses a slightly improved cable retainer that would prevent the slipped cable problem I had with the driver's side door... hopefully.
Driver door had a slipped cable that pushed back into position. Holding for now.
Passenger door required a new latch mechanism (I still can't believe the Stealer wanted $350 for labor). It has been noted before but I'll reiterate here that the new system uses a slightly improved cable retainer that would prevent the slipped cable problem I had with the driver's side door... hopefully.
#452
Everything seems to function but I can't PHYSICALLY get the drivers door open.
I have a 2004 MINI with 120,00 on it.
My drivers side door will not open.
I can hear the key fob functioning to lock and unlock the doors.
When the key is inserted into the drivers side door handle to manually lock/unlock it turns as it should I can hear it functioning. Exterior door handle pull works as normal but door will not open.
Interior (dash) lock/unlock switch functions, as well, I can hear it working.
Interior door pull functions to unlock as well but the door will not open with the 2nd pull.
I removed the drivers seat, pulled off the door panel and checked all the cables and stops and everything moves just the same as in the passenger door that I checked it against. I popped open the small compartment door on the drivers side lock mechanism and checked to make sure everything in there was functioning as well.
There is a small area on the passenger door locking mechanism where you can insert a tiny flathead screwdriver and manually move the door latch to unlatch it from the catch on the door frame to open the door however, on the drivers side door this doesn't exist.... or if it does it's under plastic that doesn't seem to be removable.
How can I get my drivers door open to get to the torx bolts on the door frame so I can remove the lock mechanism and figure out why the latch won't move when everything else seems to work fine.
SOLUTION:
On the drivers side door lock mechanism the plastic cover that seems like it can't be removed can be lifted up a bit, frustratingly, allowing a long shafted flat head screwdriver to get to the rotary mech. To do this you have to remove the (has a white head) torx bolt that holds on the bracket for exterior door handle cable stop. You can easily do this with one hand from inside the door unless you have monster arms. Remove the cable from the stop first, but I suppose it doesn't really matter because it'll simply fall out if you don't.
Once this bracket is removed you can use your fingers to forcefully "POP" the plastic covering around from the edge where the bracket was that you had removed. You'll have to "POP" it from the bottom edge as well. If you do what I did, and get mad, you'll pop off the green tab that the interior door button fits into, as well as a few other small bits inside the tiny compartment where all the bits for the interior door pull are housed. It's okay... it all pops back on, but don't lose the pieces, they are small.
Note, THIS COVER DOESN'T COME OFF. You just have to put a little muscle behind it and you can lift it up and using a flashlight you can see where you can stick a flathead screw driver and manually move the rotary latch that holds the door shut.
Use the longest flat head screwdriver you can manage to hold comfortably or it'll be a bit frustrating. The long screwdriver enables you do get the flat head to the rotary latch while the shaft of the screwdriver helps hold that plastic covering up.
Your door will pop open. It helps to have someone on the outside of the door to pull the handle open when you pop the latch.
NOTE. If you shut your door, you'll have to do this again. This doesn't FIX anything, it just opens the door so you can get to the torx bolts to remove the door lock mechanism.
My drivers side door will not open.
I can hear the key fob functioning to lock and unlock the doors.
When the key is inserted into the drivers side door handle to manually lock/unlock it turns as it should I can hear it functioning. Exterior door handle pull works as normal but door will not open.
Interior (dash) lock/unlock switch functions, as well, I can hear it working.
Interior door pull functions to unlock as well but the door will not open with the 2nd pull.
I removed the drivers seat, pulled off the door panel and checked all the cables and stops and everything moves just the same as in the passenger door that I checked it against. I popped open the small compartment door on the drivers side lock mechanism and checked to make sure everything in there was functioning as well.
There is a small area on the passenger door locking mechanism where you can insert a tiny flathead screwdriver and manually move the door latch to unlatch it from the catch on the door frame to open the door however, on the drivers side door this doesn't exist.... or if it does it's under plastic that doesn't seem to be removable.
How can I get my drivers door open to get to the torx bolts on the door frame so I can remove the lock mechanism and figure out why the latch won't move when everything else seems to work fine.
SOLUTION:
On the drivers side door lock mechanism the plastic cover that seems like it can't be removed can be lifted up a bit, frustratingly, allowing a long shafted flat head screwdriver to get to the rotary mech. To do this you have to remove the (has a white head) torx bolt that holds on the bracket for exterior door handle cable stop. You can easily do this with one hand from inside the door unless you have monster arms. Remove the cable from the stop first, but I suppose it doesn't really matter because it'll simply fall out if you don't.
Once this bracket is removed you can use your fingers to forcefully "POP" the plastic covering around from the edge where the bracket was that you had removed. You'll have to "POP" it from the bottom edge as well. If you do what I did, and get mad, you'll pop off the green tab that the interior door button fits into, as well as a few other small bits inside the tiny compartment where all the bits for the interior door pull are housed. It's okay... it all pops back on, but don't lose the pieces, they are small.
Note, THIS COVER DOESN'T COME OFF. You just have to put a little muscle behind it and you can lift it up and using a flashlight you can see where you can stick a flathead screw driver and manually move the rotary latch that holds the door shut.
Use the longest flat head screwdriver you can manage to hold comfortably or it'll be a bit frustrating. The long screwdriver enables you do get the flat head to the rotary latch while the shaft of the screwdriver helps hold that plastic covering up.
Your door will pop open. It helps to have someone on the outside of the door to pull the handle open when you pop the latch.
NOTE. If you shut your door, you'll have to do this again. This doesn't FIX anything, it just opens the door so you can get to the torx bolts to remove the door lock mechanism.
Last edited by EllaJeanLumpkins; 10-14-2015 at 02:23 PM. Reason: Found a solution and wanted to share it...
#453
Key will no longer lock manually
I've read all 19 pages of this thread and did not see this particular problem. Maybe I overlooked it but here is my problem.
I have a 2004 R50. My key will no longer lock/unlock manually from the outside of my mini. The remote has never worked and the dealer wants $500+ to reprogram because I do not have the key code. We've been using the manual lock/unlock for four years. About a year ago, I replaced the actuators because the toggle switches inside were not locking/unlocking the doors. They are still working fine. The door handle works and I can get in and out of the car. I just have no way to lock it. Right before it quit working, I did notice that the key turned slightly more than normal to unlock the car. The door used to lock at about the 10 o'clock position and unlock at approximately the 2 o'clock position ( I may have the unlock/lock reversed but the positions are correct) Now, the key moves freely from about the 2 o'clock position to the 9 o'clock position and will not lock or unlock. In addition, I did pull the panel and check the rod that goes from the pop-up lock at the top the panel and connects into the green spinning mechanism on the actuator. It is in place where it should be. Thankfully, it broke in the unlocked position but I don't like leaving my car unlocked everywhere. Any suggestions?
I have a 2004 R50. My key will no longer lock/unlock manually from the outside of my mini. The remote has never worked and the dealer wants $500+ to reprogram because I do not have the key code. We've been using the manual lock/unlock for four years. About a year ago, I replaced the actuators because the toggle switches inside were not locking/unlocking the doors. They are still working fine. The door handle works and I can get in and out of the car. I just have no way to lock it. Right before it quit working, I did notice that the key turned slightly more than normal to unlock the car. The door used to lock at about the 10 o'clock position and unlock at approximately the 2 o'clock position ( I may have the unlock/lock reversed but the positions are correct) Now, the key moves freely from about the 2 o'clock position to the 9 o'clock position and will not lock or unlock. In addition, I did pull the panel and check the rod that goes from the pop-up lock at the top the panel and connects into the green spinning mechanism on the actuator. It is in place where it should be. Thankfully, it broke in the unlocked position but I don't like leaving my car unlocked everywhere. Any suggestions?
Last edited by dmoore; 12-26-2015 at 05:34 PM.
#454
2003 R50 with 160K miles, I just bought it.
Drivers door will not lock (from the day I bought it, the seller told me). I cannot make it lock with the key fob, dash button, key in the door, or manually pushing it down. Just recently locking in general on all others doors has been in-and-out deciding if it wants to work. Taking it to a shop tomorrow.
Just the short time I've had this car (since the 18th of Dec) I've researched and found this seems to be quite a common issue. That sucks.
Drivers door will not lock (from the day I bought it, the seller told me). I cannot make it lock with the key fob, dash button, key in the door, or manually pushing it down. Just recently locking in general on all others doors has been in-and-out deciding if it wants to work. Taking it to a shop tomorrow.
Just the short time I've had this car (since the 18th of Dec) I've researched and found this seems to be quite a common issue. That sucks.
#455
Reply to SmithA6
Your problem sounds like an actuator problem but I'm no expert. I have replaced mine myself and if you have any mechanical inclination, it really isn't that difficult. Look at these links:
How to link:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/2001-20...lacement/18876
Also, look on you tube.
Also, here is a link for parts for actuators:
http://miniofmtlaurelpartsgiant.com
I hope this helps.
Doug
How to link:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/2001-20...lacement/18876
Also, look on you tube.
Also, here is a link for parts for actuators:
http://miniofmtlaurelpartsgiant.com
I hope this helps.
Doug
#456
While I do believe I have the mechanical ability to do this, I don't really have the time and I usually have the luck that I tend to break things and/or make things worse. Or, I get in there doing something simple, like replacing the actuator, and it ends up being something much more in depth and my car is out of commission for days instead of hours.
For example, I had a BMW 318ti. Door panel wouldn't stay on, very simple. Got the stuff to fix it, well, it wasn't staying on because the window kept popping out of track and pushing on the door, so looked at it and the arms were bent, bought new arms and replaced those. Now that it was right, the track itself had been warped so much from going up and down with the bent arms I needed new track, which led to needing new weather stripping. Long story short: 20min repair to keep the door on ended up as 2 weeks of fixing and couldn't drive it because the window wasn't able to go up.
With the way things are acting I'm not even sure if it's just the drivers side or all of them or what.
I think what I'm going to do is let the shop look at it, tell me what's wrong and see their repair price. If they need parts I may look into purchasing them myself and letting them install them, just pay for labor.
#457
#458
Hello. The lock cylinder is broken or the circlip that holds it in fell off and the mock cylinder is spinning. Spins 360 degrees on the lock? You will to get behind the door panel and go to the back of the lock itself and see whats going on , it the lock cylinder is broken , you will have to go to the dealer and get it as its a theft reinvent part, we don't carry them.
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#460
Step #10 Thats metal lock cylinder might be busted up inside to spin 360
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/2001+20...lacement/18876
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#461
PS. The power lock doesn't work either, I can hear the relay click inside. Nothing from the fob either. The interior power unlock only works on the rear Hatch. The manual lock/unlock door pins work from inside
#462
Yea, the lock cylinder pins spin because the lock acuator ( nylon socket ) is stripper out or broken.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...oblems-17.html
Bottom left section connection of the lock actuator ( driver side) is stripper or the gear inside that lock are broken. Which makes sense why nothing else triggers I can see the rod for the lock move.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...oblems-17.html
Bottom left section connection of the lock actuator ( driver side) is stripper or the gear inside that lock are broken. Which makes sense why nothing else triggers I can see the rod for the lock move.
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#464
So I need this, correct? :
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2003-...1B16A/ES88657/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2003-...1B16A/ES88657/
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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#465
Here's what my lock cylinder looked like after it broke. These things are made from very cheap pot metal and, IMHO, are not meant to be used on a daily basis as some of you are doing. $500 to reprogram your BCU to accept your remote is crazy. If possible you should call or find another dealer. Are you sure your key is working? Have you tried replacing the battery in the remote or seeing if the red LED comes on when you push a button (2002-2004 models)?
Old lock cylinder:
Old compared to the new one:
As you can see the replacement ones are made out of different metal and seem to be sturdier. And yes, they need to be ordered at the dealer via VIN and proof of ID and ownership. As ECS said, it's a theft prevention thing.
For everybody who says their key doesn't work, look into battery replacement and if it's a clamshell key, see if the red LED comes on with a button push. Many auto parts stores also have a thing by the front counter that will confirm that your key is transmitting a signal.
I can help too- I run the MINI Key Hospital. PM me if you need help or have questions.
Bruce
Old lock cylinder:
Old compared to the new one:
As you can see the replacement ones are made out of different metal and seem to be sturdier. And yes, they need to be ordered at the dealer via VIN and proof of ID and ownership. As ECS said, it's a theft prevention thing.
For everybody who says their key doesn't work, look into battery replacement and if it's a clamshell key, see if the red LED comes on with a button push. Many auto parts stores also have a thing by the front counter that will confirm that your key is transmitting a signal.
I can help too- I run the MINI Key Hospital. PM me if you need help or have questions.
Bruce
#466
I've read all 19 pages of this thread and did not see this particular problem. Maybe I overlooked it but here is my problem.
I have a 2004 R50. My key will no longer lock/unlock manually from the outside of my mini. The remote has never worked and the dealer wants $500+ to reprogram because I do not have the key code. We've been using the manual lock/unlock for four years. About a year ago, I replaced the actuators because the toggle switches inside were not locking/unlocking the doors. They are still working fine. The door handle works and I can get in and out of the car. I just have no way to lock it. Right before it quit working, I did notice that the key turned slightly more than normal to unlock the car. The door used to lock at about the 10 o'clock position and unlock at approximately the 2 o'clock position ( I may have the unlock/lock reversed but the positions are correct) Now, the key moves freely from about the 2 o'clock position to the 9 o'clock position and will not lock or unlock. In addition, I did pull the panel and check the rod that goes from the pop-up lock at the top the panel and connects into the green spinning mechanism on the actuator. It is in place where it should be. Thankfully, it broke in the unlocked position but I don't like leaving my car unlocked everywhere. Any suggestions?
I have a 2004 R50. My key will no longer lock/unlock manually from the outside of my mini. The remote has never worked and the dealer wants $500+ to reprogram because I do not have the key code. We've been using the manual lock/unlock for four years. About a year ago, I replaced the actuators because the toggle switches inside were not locking/unlocking the doors. They are still working fine. The door handle works and I can get in and out of the car. I just have no way to lock it. Right before it quit working, I did notice that the key turned slightly more than normal to unlock the car. The door used to lock at about the 10 o'clock position and unlock at approximately the 2 o'clock position ( I may have the unlock/lock reversed but the positions are correct) Now, the key moves freely from about the 2 o'clock position to the 9 o'clock position and will not lock or unlock. In addition, I did pull the panel and check the rod that goes from the pop-up lock at the top the panel and connects into the green spinning mechanism on the actuator. It is in place where it should be. Thankfully, it broke in the unlocked position but I don't like leaving my car unlocked everywhere. Any suggestions?
https://sites.google.com/site/minian...moving-forward
Bruce
Last edited by valvashon; 02-19-2016 at 07:52 AM. Reason: added link
#468
Do both at the same time, that's what most people do, also since they are doing the same thing on one side.
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#469
Hello
I have problems with the lock on the left side of my R53 2005 from the remote control does not open this side, the passenger side functioning normally. from inside the vehicle only it works with the central locking button on the passenger side.
It opens only by means of the key
Additionally lock gas cap is always open, not locked with the key as before.
Has anyone had this problem, if I buy a new door lock actuator resolve the problem ??
I have problems with the lock on the left side of my R53 2005 from the remote control does not open this side, the passenger side functioning normally. from inside the vehicle only it works with the central locking button on the passenger side.
It opens only by means of the key
Additionally lock gas cap is always open, not locked with the key as before.
Has anyone had this problem, if I buy a new door lock actuator resolve the problem ??
#470
Hello
I have problems with the lock on the left side of my R53 2005 from the remote control does not open this side, the passenger side functioning normally. from inside the vehicle only it works with the central locking button on the passenger side.
It opens only by means of the key
Additionally lock gas cap is always open, not locked with the key as before.
Has anyone had this problem, if I buy a new door lock actuator resolve the problem ??
I have problems with the lock on the left side of my R53 2005 from the remote control does not open this side, the passenger side functioning normally. from inside the vehicle only it works with the central locking button on the passenger side.
It opens only by means of the key
Additionally lock gas cap is always open, not locked with the key as before.
Has anyone had this problem, if I buy a new door lock actuator resolve the problem ??
#471
Hello
I have problems with the lock on the left side of my R53 2005 from the remote control does not open this side, the passenger side functioning normally. from inside the vehicle only it works with the central locking button on the passenger side.
It opens only by means of the key
Additionally lock gas cap is always open, not locked with the key as before.
Has anyone had this problem, if I buy a new door lock actuator resolve the problem ??
I have problems with the lock on the left side of my R53 2005 from the remote control does not open this side, the passenger side functioning normally. from inside the vehicle only it works with the central locking button on the passenger side.
It opens only by means of the key
Additionally lock gas cap is always open, not locked with the key as before.
Has anyone had this problem, if I buy a new door lock actuator resolve the problem ??
Most of the issues are with the lock actuator itself, which I have posted above. They wither fail on one side or the other side , dependent on whats not working. Sometimes you will find them weak and then not work at all. Sometimes I have seen them have enough power left to lock , but not unlock.
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#473
#474
My drivers side door lock won’t open with remote or with the switch inside. The inside handle opens it up and the actual key from the outside. What should I be looking to replace or fix?
#475
Thats a classic driver's door actuator. Its about an hour of work, just buy a used part online and crack the door card off. There are tons of actuator videos on youtube.