Sorry Mini Corporate (BMW?) I simply couldn't wait to change that blask oil until 10K miles. I went as far as I could, 3950 but I caved.

Job went well with one exception. The oil would have come out nicely, except it hit the skid plate and went everywhere. I'll have to think of something better next time.

Also it took about 5 minutes to get that damn oil canister to spin back on!!

 

I meant "nasty black oil" ...

 

FraserBonnet:

I think it was a wise decision to change your oil before the scheduled dealer service. I did the same! I was able to wait only until my MINI had 3,200 miles. Very small price for great peace of mind!

Juan

 

I, on the other hand, will not pay a penny to a MINI dealer to get me an earlier oil change. If they say that the factory Castrol synthetic oil can be changed on 10K mile intervals, that's what I am doing. Our '02 Cooper CVT has 9K miles and it will be going in Saturday morning for its first ever oil change. The onboard computer is already flashing the "Need oil service" message when I turn on the engine.

If you change the oil in the MINI every 3K miles, so then what is the purpose of having Synthetic oil in the first place?


I have not had any problems leaving the original factory oil in the 10 months since we got the car.

 

>>If you change the oil in the MINI every 3K miles, so then what is the purpose of having Synthetic oil in the first place?
>>
>>
>>I have not had any problems leaving the original factory oil in the 10 months since we got the car.

Yet.......
They don't think you need to change your air filter either.
Have you looked at it??

 

I haven't look at it. I typically change the air filter by the 15K mile mark. When are you supposed to get it replaced in the MINI?

 

When it gets dirty...after 4 months my 2nd Ss filter was
filthy. You may want to take a look...

 

This is how I solved the skid plate problem while changing my oil. Just take a piece of card board and place it in the hole in like a half moon type of shape so when the oil comes out it hits the piece of cardboard and deflects down into the oil drain pan. Actually, I used an old dog food can but cardboard is just as good. Hope I explained the process clear enough.

 

>>This is how I solved the skid plate problem while changing my oil. Just take a piece of card board and place it in the hole in like a half moon type of shape so when the oil comes out it hits the piece of cardboard and deflects down into the oil drain pan. Actually, I used an old dog food can but cardboard is just as good. Hope I explained the process clear enough.

One more thing about my last post I forgot to include. Don't try this with the oil real hot. Before placing the cardboard in the hole, unscrew the oil drain plug until its "almost" out then place the cardboard in and then reach up and unscrew the drain plug the rest of the way with two fingers keeping in mind that you'll get your hand oily but at least you'll not have oil getting on top of your skid plate and running everywhere.

 

I just did mine this weekend at 3400 miles. With all the helpful advice from people on this site, I didn't spill a drop. I don't have the skid plate and didn't experience a problem there. The best advice was to loosen the oil canister a turn or so after the initial drain from the oil pan. This drains any additional oil in the filter. Without that I would have had some spillage. As far as screwing the canister back, I guess I got lucky. It took 3 tries and success. I hope all you do-it-yourselfers have the same luck.

 

>>I just did mine this weekend at 3400 miles. With all the helpful advice from people on this site, I didn't spill a drop. I don't have the skid plate and didn't experience a problem there. The best advice was to loosen the oil canister a turn or so after the initial drain from the oil pan. This drains any additional oil in the filter. Without that I would have had some spillage. As far as screwing the canister back, I guess I got lucky. It took 3 tries and success. I hope all you do-it-yourselfers have the same luck.


I've done mine twice now and it's really no big deal getting the filter canister back on but you have to be damned careful not to strip the threads. Almost have to have a safecrackers touch!

 

Changed mine at 2000 now gonna do it again at 5000. Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 for me.

 

Can someone provide a reference for a source for the short 33mm socket
needed to fit the Oil Filter casing?

 

>>Can someone provide a reference for a source for the short 33mm socket
>>needed to fit the Oil Filter casing?
>>

Bought mine at Sears.

 

Bought my 36mm socket at Sears also and had a machine shop cut it down so that it was shallow enough not to hit part of the firewall when attached to the socket wrench. The guy cut it down for free. I also thought I read someone found a shallow socket set at Wallmart or Kmart.

 

I bought a Stanley set of 5 large sockets at Wall-Mart. $12 as I recall. The 36mm is not especially short but it does not need to be. There's plenty of room. There's also an $8 socket at Home Depot but it's not as short as the Stanley.

 

Try a Oil filter wrench.. They make them in two sizes for different size oil filters..

 

Did you see a change in perforamce overall after you change the oil ealier than what the dealership said too?? Why was it Black?? But one more thing, Now you can't get the oil changes for free any more because you change it before 10k. Can you ask this

_________________
Danny

 

>>Did you see a change in perforamce overall after you change the oil ealier than what the dealership said too?? Why was it Black?? But one more thing, Now you can't get the oil changes for free any more because you change it before 10k. Can you ask this
>>
>>_________________
>>Danny

Why wouldnt you still get the free oil change at 10k? I plan on changing early and not telling anyone about it. They can do the 10k as promised.

PS: got my 36mm socket at Home Depot for $6.50 (1/2 inche drive....Husky, lifetime warranty) - Mark

 

I don't generally consider myself an idiot, but when I checked my 2002 MCS I was 3 quarts of oil low after only 6K miles !! No wonder you don't have to change it until 10K - you replace it so fast its always fresh !! Has anyone else seen oil usage at this level ? There was never any 'oil puddles' where I park and no big blue cloud followed me around.

Also, I know its a different thread - but my coolant in the reserve tank is that lovely 'strong tea' color. I'm thinking it may be related ....

 

how does the dealer decide on the intervals between oil chages?
according to my oil service count down, my first dealer oil change was at 9500 miles
then they reset the service count down for another 15,500 miles
do they really expect me to go another 15,500 miles without an oil change?
did anyone else get the 15,500 mile reset?

 

I think we all do. That's what it sais in the manual. 10K first time, 15K thereafter...

 

The miles till the next oil change (according to owners manual) is actually set by the on board computer based on driving habits (IE: If you log a lot of highway miles your miles between changes should be more than someone who does a lot of stopping and starting).

 

i would like to know what the personal oil change intervals you people are doing
2,500.....3,000.....5,000
just being curious

 

3000...it is only money and it's synthetic....
I drive hard so my oil works hard. I know the synthetic
molecules are longer and blah,blah,blah....but it is my
car. 90+ degrees, AC always on. I don't need a computer
to tell me what to do.....