hi
i own a 2003 mcs, will have been in storage for about 4 months
whats the procedure for starting it after sitting for so long?
please let me know
thanks
dan

 

I suggest just checking all of your fluids to make sure everything is in tip-top shape. Once everything checks out with the fluids and looks mechanically sound, I'd just follow the owner's manual procedure when starting the car. Once you start the car, just proceed conservatively and try not to punch it until the temp indicator has settled around the middle.

GotMINI

 

I think you first need to apologize to the car for neglecting it. If it accepts your apology it will start for you.

 

charge your battery if it wasn't maintained.

 

 

Is the gas 4 months old also?
Jim

 

^^ yikes... might want to siphon it out unless you put stabil or something in there...

 

Only thing I would do is pull the fuse for the fuel pump (that's what I do for the Miatas, anyway.) Then crank the engine over for 10-20 seconds, and replace the fuse. That gets oil to the important places that have long since drained before ignition.
Sorry, I haven't checked to see where it is on the MINI - no need thus far.

Haven't had any issues with old gas here in CA.

 

4 months is not a lot in the greater sense, there should not be any appreciable degradation of fuel in that time. The most probably issue would likely be the batery, don't be surprised if it will not turn the engine over. If you have a battery charger or can get one, I'd suggest connecting it to the battery and give it several hours to refresh the battery before starting. When starting an engine that has sat for a while, ideally one should remove the fuse or relay for the fuel pump to allow the oil pressure to build when cranking the engine rather than when it is running (another reason for the battery charger). Today's oils leave a decent amount of residual oil on all moving parts when idle for a long time, so it's not an absolute necessity. Start the engine normally and let it idle for a couple minutes. Check gauges and warning lights. If everything appears normal, pump the brake pedal a couple times then start off slowly to allow the transmission oil to circulate. Drive gently to allow fliuds to mix, tap the brake a few times to test it and clear the rust from the rotors (this happens even to garaged cars over time), then if everything seems normal, drive it like you usually do.

 

It's not so much fuel degradation, it's water in the tank from condensation. Might not be a big problem out where I am, but I would drain the tank if I lived in a humid area.

 

Here is where evaporative emissions controls actually have another beneficial side effect. Unlike the old days of a somewhat 'open' fuel system, all cars these days have a 'sealed' (though not totally) fuel tank and related system. Unless the car sits in a hugely varying range of temperatures, the pressure inside the tank is mostly equalized and nothing flows in or out. There are valves designed to protect the system if the pressures go to either extreme, and of course there is an air inlet that allows air to enter the tank as the fuel is used (otherwise the tank can collapse and/or fuel flow will be impeded). The best remedy here is to park the car with a full tank of gas before storage, preferrably with a fuel stabilizer such as "Sta-Bil" mixed in with the fuel.