I find it hard to believe that you change the oil every 10K! I know a lot of newer cars are saying that they can go more than 3K miles without changing the oil, but is this really good practice?

Does Mini run synthetic oil from the factory?

Erik

 

I find it hard to trust the recommended oil change interval as well - even with synthetic oil (call me old fashioned). I made unscheduled oil changes after the break in period and again at 15K. I'll be sticking with changes at 5K unless someone can convince me that synthetic oil works better over time. To me, it's worth it for the peace of mind alone.

 

Yes, Mini's do come with synthetic oil in the crankcase. My personal recommendation would be to do an intitial change between the 2 and 3 thousand mile mark and then every 5000 after that. There's not a motor alive that's been hurt by clean oil and a new filter.

 

Yes, the oil is synthetic from the factory and BMW (MINI, along with many other european automakers ie Audi, Mercedes, Volvo) says that the oil is perfectly able to withstand 10 and even 15K miles. The first oil change covered by warrenty for the MINI is 10k but then it switches to 15k there onward. I am nearing 5k and I am thinking about changing it just to be on the safe side. If/when I do change it, I am going to use synthetic because the engine is designed and adjusted for it. It won't hurt it to put normal oil (just like puting "regular" gas in it) but i might hurt the performance a little and you would have to change it sooner. My brother has changed his BMW 323i oil every 15k and it has 45k on it and has no problems. so I don't know, I wouldn't think that a company would do anything to shorten the lifespan of their engines. Just my 2 cents.

 

my .02...I've got 6500 on my MC, and it's a bit too dark for my liking. I'm changing it this weekend, then again at service time. I'm just going to watch it after that. I think that the oil depends upon the type of driving you do. I do a whole bunch of stop and go, and the *spirited* on the weekends, so I'll change more often...

 

>>Yes, Mini's do come with synthetic oil in the crankcase. My personal recommendation would be to do an intitial change between the 2 and 3 thousand mile mark and then every 5000 after that. There's not a motor alive that's been hurt by clean oil and a new filter.

My wife’s ’01 BMW X5 went to almost 17K before it needed its first oil change. I talked to a BMW engineer when the extended oil services first came out and he was convinced that you were not doing the motor any harm what so ever in abiding by the factory oil change schedule. I plan on changing the oil in my MCS at 3K and every 5K after that just for peace of mind. I agree there is not a motor alive that has been hurt by clean oil and a new filter.

 

I did my first oil change at 1200 and I expect to do another at 2500. This runs counter to BMW recomendations but I don't want to risk metal particles ruining my engine.

10k seems crazy to me. I wonder what the recomendation would be if MINI wasn't picking up the tab? Or if they weren't under pressure to show low maintainance costs?

Synthetic oils don't break down as fast as conventional oil, but they still get just as much dirt. And if there are metal particles synthetic oil doesn't help you there. Early oil changes seem like good insurance to me.

 

Its Castrol Syntec though which is not a real synthetic. Mobil took Castrol to court over this but unfortunately lost because the Judge was a ******* and the chemisitry/physicis was just too complicated for him to understand.

You should be fine going 10,000 miles between oil changes using a real synthetic, amsoil, Mobil 1 Redline, royal purple etc., but I would not use Castrol Syntec. Look around on the web and you can find lots of stories about syntec and how it does not come close to meething the same tests other true synthetics do.

I change my oil about ever 10,000 miles in my 1989 Pontiac Bonneville with around 125,000 miles on it using Amsoil oil and Amsoil filter and have never had a problem.

Many people go much longer then 10,000 miles with Amsoil too and it is waranteed to go 25,000-35,000.

 

I agree. Castrol syn. oil is the same as the semi syn. grades that Mobil offers, but totally different from a fully syn oil. My father told me when i was 16... heres what you do, and since I'm not paying for it, and here's how you can save some money. I bought the cheap stuff for my first car, but after that....

When I was on modding my Camaro, I ran noting but Mobil 1. I still do to this day, no matter what the car I am driving, its Mobil 1. I've heard from so many guys that take apart a motor thats always run syn oil, its so much cleaner and shows so much less wear.

But here's my issue. Somewhere, on Mobil's site, they compared oils. Thier conclusion was that even though Mobil 1 is stilll good up to 20K miles. However, it is not recommended that you run it (or any oil) past 5K miles because the filer needs changed. I believe this and I really question why (even with a quality filer) that MINI can justify a 10-15K interval...

Erik

Maybe its just me, mayb

 

Amsoil recomends having the filter changed at about the 15,000 mile mark for there 25,000-35,000 mile oils.

I just change everything at about 10,000 usualy cause my car is old and conventional oil was used in the motor for the first 90,000 or so miles.

 

>>Amsoil recomends having the filter changed at about the 15,000 mile mark for there 25,000-35,000 mile oils. <<

Is Amsoil selling a filter for the MINI yet? Have they done any tests on the MINI filter? (...Zappa?)

 

I don't think they do. I have not heard anything yet. I would want a spin on conversion kit and remote filter adapater though.

 

Yeah - a spin-on could be nice.

In February Zappa mentioned that they were working on a filter for the MINI (made by Hastings). I don't think he mentioned anything about it being a spin-on conversion though. Here's the thread he mentioned that in.

I wonder if there are any updates on the status and cost?

 

Hopefuly by the time I have my car an oil filter will be out and preferbly a remote location kit.

I would prefer a remote location kit with spin on that way I can put a heat sink on the filter to help keep those oil temps down.

 

Moss offers a spin-on conversion kit with optional oil cooler for the Cooper but not the S....

Moss spin-on oil filter and cooler conversion kit.

 

I think the S already has an oil cooler so I guess that is why the kit is only for the Cooper.

 

Spycar said:
>>
>>Synthetic oils don't break down as fast as conventional oil, but they still get just as much dirt. And if there are metal particles synthetic oil doesn't help you there. Early oil changes seem like good insurance to me.


I can understand your thinking but using a top of the line synthetic will reduce wear metal and wear. If you use a non moly synthetic and follow your filtration guidelines you have nothing to worry about.

If you are experiencing significant engine wear, then there is a problem with the engine its self or the filtration is not doing its job. Often overlooked is the air filter. This adds more silicon and wear particles into the oil than you realize. Look at my silicon levels in my analysis. I would like to see the results (used oil analysis) from a MINI using a oil'd wetted gauze air filter.

The Oil analysis does not lie. I have seen many and where synthetics and proper filtration was used, wear metals in sound engines were reduced in half.

I am sending my 2nd oil analysis this week. (company in Cleveland, OH) I am now over 12,000 miles on my Amsoil 0W30 and changed the oil filter right at 10,000 miles on that oil. Stay tuned for the results. As some of you know, I raced a miata and used it as my daily driver. Racked up 78,000 miles and used the 0W30 for 27,000 miles. That was with 3 AMSOIL SDF filters. The 0W30 is guaranteed for 35,000 miles.

No, Amsoil will not make a cartrige type oil filter, but it's really not a problem. From my tests I should be able to tell just how good of a filter the stock one is. When the Hastings one becomes available I work with that. For now as AMSOIL recommends, you just change your MINI oil filter at 10,000 (or less if you feel you need to) and top off.

Frequent oil changes using synthetics can shorten the life of your emission control system including your catalytic converter because of the grades of phosphouous some synthetics use. Some synthetics are moly based (not AMSOIL) which will increase corrosion if you don't change it often.. So there are lots of differences to know..

If I could suggest, please read this article that was just released with permission from Lubs 'N' Greases, the industry magazine on the injustice of the 3000-5000 mile oil change. You will find it very interesting!!!!

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/lng_article/march_lng_new.pdf

And on my site with the shorter version:
http://www.syntheticwarehouse.com/amsoil_applauded.htm

If you would like a Oil Analysis kit, they are available, Postage Paid for $19.00. When you get it just capture the middle portion of the oil while you drain, or use a dipstick tube pump like I have to pull the oil (about 1 Pt.) then just drop it in the mail. They will keep a record of your unit so next time it will show the prior test.

Ches

 

Very interesting article! Thanks for posting the link.

 

A brother of mine works for Valvoline. I asked him to comment on this article and what his take was:

"Here's the deal with oil, partially my opinion, mostly fact.

Oil is made up of two parts, the base stock 80%, additives 20%. The
additives do all of the work, they are essentially the active ingredients,
the base stock acts as a carrier for the additives. Over time the additives
wear out, basically your oil quits doing the job it is supposed to. How
long it takes the additives to wear out depends, primarily on the brand
(and what additives they use- hence Amsoil's 35K claim) and it also
depends on how hard you drive your car. However, all engines produce
dirt, created by the combustion of the gas which blow by the pistons in
some small amount regardless of how new the car is. The job of the PCV
system, (postive crankcase ventilation) is to remove this harmful dirt and
unburn gas from your engine, or crankcase. But ultimately some if it gets
in your oil. Besides being a carrier for additives, the oil also carries
dirt, keeping it from building up on the metal and moving parts in the
engine. This dirt is what causes the oil to looks black over time. The
added dirt also increases the viscosity of the oil, causing it not to flow
as well through the engine, i.e. sludging. Therefore, my opinion is that
you should change the oil at least every 5,000 ( especially considering the
driving you are going to be doing) if for no other reason than to remove
the dirt from the system, regardless of the effectiveness of the additives.
I still change mine every 3,000 though - even though I use Mobil 1. Changing
you oil often is never a bad thing, although a little more costly.

The author doesn't address this issue of dirt build up. Also from an
environmental stand point, oil never really goes bad, as I said, the
additives just wear out and need to be replaced in the form of new oil.
Therefore, as in the case of Val. Instant O/C all of our used oil is picked
up by a contractor and recycled. Essentially the base stock is purified and
the additives are reinstalled and it is sold as recycled oil and used at
places like Wal-mart.

BTW, the difference between syn and conventional oils is all in the base
stock. Synthetic is manufactured in a lab, making it more environmentally
friendly because no crude oil is need. Conventional is a naturally
occurring crude oil which is refined. Synthetic is superior because the
base stock has a uniform molecular structure being that it is produced
under controlled conditions in a lab. The uniform molecules flow more
freely and are thus a better lubricant than conventional which has varying
molecular structures as a result of it being natural, like every snowflake
or fingerprint is different."

Hope that helps,
Erik

 

If MINI said you needed to change the oil every 3000 miles, people would be saying, "Why do I have to change it every 3000 miles!? Oil technology has improved. I shouldn't have to change it that often."

MINI is not going to make a recommendation that would potentially cause them to have to repalce a motor. If they say it is 10K miles, you can bet they have a 5k mile cusion in there. When they spec this stuff out, they have to assume worse case scenarios; that people are going to miss their service recommendations.

Oil has improved. No, changing it more frequently isn't going to hurt the motor. but in all actuality, the way that most people drive, even the driver with the occational heavy foot, the only difference it is going to make is the time and money they spend maintaining their MINI. I'm sure that most of you don't have your MINIs on the track every other weekend.

Follow their recommendations and the car will be just fine.

 

One more comment...the oil manufacturers have nothing to lose by recommending that you change your oil every 3000 or 5000 miles rather than every 10000 miles. They only stand to make an extra $35 per person that does it.

MINI has a $3500 (I'm guessing here) motor on the line. Why would they jeopardize it?

 

These car's need oil too?

 

My wife owns a 1998 BMW 528I. I owned and sold a 2000 BMW M Roadster. Both cars called for a 10,000 mile oil change. I wanted to change the oil at 3,000 miles, but BMW stated that I would need to pay for the early change. They would only cover the 10,000 mi service.

 

>>MINI has a $3500 (I'm guessing here) motor on the line. Why would they jeopardize it?<<

Remember, the engine warranty is only for 50,000 miles.

 

>>A brother of mine works for Valvoline. I asked him to comment on this article and what his take was:
>>
>>"Here's the deal with oil, partially my opinion, mostly fact.
>>
>>Oil is made up of two parts, the base stock 80%, additives 20%. The
>>additives do all of the work, they are essentially the active ingredients,
>>the base stock acts as a carrier for the additives. Over time the additives
>>wear out, basically your oil quits doing the job it is supposed to. How
>>long it takes the additives to wear out depends, primarily on the brand
>>(and what additives they use- hence Amsoil's 35K claim) and it also
>>depends on how hard you drive your car. However, all engines produce
>>dirt, created by the combustion of the gas which blow by the pistons in
>>some small amount regardless of how new the car is. The job of the PCV
>>system, (postive crankcase ventilation) is to remove this harmful dirt and
>>unburn gas from your engine, or crankcase. But ultimately some if it gets
>>in your oil. Besides being a carrier for additives, the oil also carries
>>dirt, keeping it from building up on the metal and moving parts in the
>>engine. This dirt is what causes the oil to looks black over time. The
>>added dirt also increases the viscosity of the oil, causing it not to flow
>>as well through the engine, i.e. sludging. Therefore, my opinion is that
>>you should change the oil at least every 5,000 ( especially considering the
>>driving you are going to be doing) if for no other reason than to remove
>>the dirt from the system, regardless of the effectiveness of the additives.
>>I still change mine every 3,000 though - even though I use Mobil 1. Changing
>>you oil often is never a bad thing, although a little more costly.
>>
>>Hope that helps,
>>Erik

Amsoil's 35,000 mile -or- one year (Ow30 only) claim is actually a guarantee that covers any engine in sound condition. Ask what the contaminants effects are in the engine? If you use a superior oil, the chemistry is designed to withstand these blow-by products, water and changes in temperature. Guidelines are set to what levels are significantly harmful. None of the analysis I have taken in oil used within these intervals have exceeded the limits or have even come close.

I'll have a 2nd one ready for display here soon.

Diesel engines go 10's of thousands of miles with proper filtration. Interstate Batteries in Detroit now use AMSOIL exclusively and run to 100,000 using analysis and secondary filtration.

My point here is that you can trust the product and it's recommended interval (25,000 miles/1-year) for 5W30. Your engine is covered. It will last thousands of miles longer and you save money. That guarantee includes that the viscosity will remain within the index per the label, yet since the 10W40 was introduced in 1972, not one motor oil company has been able to match the warranty, volatility (emissions) or quality results. (and I agree most people who don't own a fleet don't care) But 10,000 mile intervals are absolutely fine and I personally don't expect anyone to just change their mind tomorrow and run over that but I guarantee in 10 years every one of you will be in the opnion that 10,000 miles is too soon!! (Based on current market trends)

I wish you could have heard my most recient testimonial on the phone from Robert Miller in Myrtle Beach, SC. He owns a Dodge Cummins and where he usually would be changing the oil he noticed how clean the oil looked at that mileage and had to call. He also raved on the mileage increase. When he called I thought he was going to rip my head off because we had a argument over a shipping problem earlier (warehouse problem), but the quality of the 15W40 impressed him so much he told some co-workers and private shops about it (not to mention thanking me) and demanded to become a dealer. That's how it works! You will find his contact information now on my "Contact us" page. Feel free to email him if you like.