Recurring Code P0136
Recurring Code P0136
Hi all,
My SES light comes on for about 3-4 drive cycles with the code P0136, which is for an O2 sensor. After a few drive cycles with the SES off, it will come back on. The car seems to run fine, but I am worried that after some random # of cycles like this it'll trigger limp-home-mode and I'll be up the creek (I'm 2 hours from the closest MINI dealer).
Anyone experience this? Advice?
Thanks,
Dave
My SES light comes on for about 3-4 drive cycles with the code P0136, which is for an O2 sensor. After a few drive cycles with the SES off, it will come back on. The car seems to run fine, but I am worried that after some random # of cycles like this it'll trigger limp-home-mode and I'll be up the creek (I'm 2 hours from the closest MINI dealer).
Anyone experience this? Advice?
Thanks,
Dave
It may also be your aftermarket cat on the exhaust system. These do not last forever. If this is the case, install an O2 simulator and buy a Peake scanning tool to clear your codes (especially right before you go in for emissions testing, if you have that in PA).
More likely the post cat O2 sensor. Not difficult to replace with a good wrench or with a special wrench or socket that has a cutout for the wires.
Cost of sesnor, approx. $190 at dealer; cost of O2 simulator, $30 on-line.
No limp mode.
Cost of sesnor, approx. $190 at dealer; cost of O2 simulator, $30 on-line.
No limp mode.
No limp mode I had mine come and go for 12k miles before I could get it to be on and at the dealer at the same time. You may also pull a system to rich code
I never complained about a little extra gas, but I could enduce a smoke puff once and a while with the extra gas getting pumped through. You won't get limp mode, mine was the pre-CAT O2 (bank1 sensor1) had it replaced under warranty (but I doubt you have any left) its easy to get to, but takes some tricky manuvering if you want to DIY on jack stands, my hands and tools were too big to yank it and clean/inspect it. I've heard* that you can get them for $70-75 at your local autoparts store.
*unconfirmed reports on NAM
I never complained about a little extra gas, but I could enduce a smoke puff once and a while with the extra gas getting pumped through. You won't get limp mode, mine was the pre-CAT O2 (bank1 sensor1) had it replaced under warranty (but I doubt you have any left) its easy to get to, but takes some tricky manuvering if you want to DIY on jack stands, my hands and tools were too big to yank it and clean/inspect it. I've heard* that you can get them for $70-75 at your local autoparts store.*unconfirmed reports on NAM
Thanks for the input (and you're right Drew, this happened 1000k miles out of warranty!). PNC, can you tell me more about this mysterious 02 simulator? What does it do?
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Here is a basic description of the system
Is your Check Engine light on because your secondary O2 sensor is bad? Or is your catalytic converter failing, gutted or removed? These are expensive parts to replace: A new cat may cost $300-$600. Secondary O2 sensors are over $50.
The O2 Sensor Simulator/MIL Eliminator is your affordable solution!!
If your catalytic converter or secondary O2 sensor(s) is not working properly, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) will receive a bad signal from the sensor(s) and the Check Engine Light (CEL) or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will come on. This will not cause any damage to your car but it does present other problems:
· Least of all: The CEL/MIL is annoying
· You may not recognize a different problem thinking the CEL/MIL is on because of the O2 sensor
· You will not pass emissions until the ECU is receiving the proper signal from the secondary O2 sensor or this simulator
All cars and light trucks made since January 1, 1996 have two O2 sensors (four in dual exhaust applications) to measure the amount of oxygen contained in the exhaust gasses. The first (primary) sensor is upstream from the converter and is used by the onboard computer to calculate the air/fuel mixture. The second (secondary) sensor is downstream from the converter and its only job is to report if the converter is working properly. The CEL/MIL will come on if:
a: The converter has been removed/gutted or needs to be replaced
b: The sensor has been removed or is malfunctioning.
This simulator will solve both of those problems!
The O2 Sensor Simulator/MIL Eliminator is your affordable solution!!
If your catalytic converter or secondary O2 sensor(s) is not working properly, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) will receive a bad signal from the sensor(s) and the Check Engine Light (CEL) or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) will come on. This will not cause any damage to your car but it does present other problems:
· Least of all: The CEL/MIL is annoying
· You may not recognize a different problem thinking the CEL/MIL is on because of the O2 sensor
· You will not pass emissions until the ECU is receiving the proper signal from the secondary O2 sensor or this simulator
All cars and light trucks made since January 1, 1996 have two O2 sensors (four in dual exhaust applications) to measure the amount of oxygen contained in the exhaust gasses. The first (primary) sensor is upstream from the converter and is used by the onboard computer to calculate the air/fuel mixture. The second (secondary) sensor is downstream from the converter and its only job is to report if the converter is working properly. The CEL/MIL will come on if:
a: The converter has been removed/gutted or needs to be replaced
b: The sensor has been removed or is malfunctioning.
This simulator will solve both of those problems!
This O2 Simulator/MIL Eliminator cannot be used to replace the primary/upstream sensors since those are used to create the proper air/fuel mixture.
The product you get is basically a computer chip that replaces the 2nd sensor from what I understand following O2sensorsimulator.com
It is now two weeks since replacement and it is on again. This time I will not wait another 15,000 miles to take it back.
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