Rust :: door sill area of '02-'05 MINIs
#76
Originally Posted by kapps
Yikes! I need to check mine out too. What kind of rust preventative paint do you recommend?
If you can access the rusted area, you need to get the rust removed almost down to a molecular level. Otherwise, the rust will return. Sanding will NOT remove down to the molecular level.
Once you have been able to get most of the rust removed with sandpaper or a wire brush/wheel, you need to treat the area with either diluted phosphoric acid or diluted hydrochloric (muriatic) acid. I personally prefer the diluted phosphoric acid, but hydrochloric acid works well too. When you are not seeing the acid solution turn redish while it is being applied (iron oxide - otherwise known as rust being released) to the metal, the metal is ready to be painted. While applying the diluted acid, use a paper towel to absorbe the runoff acid. If there is pitting of the sheetmetal, and it is in a visible area, you are looking at having to fill the pits. I like to use liquid solder - it fills the pits and bonds well in the bargain. It also can be worked if necessary.
Dry the metal with a compressed air source. Once you have dried the metal, DO NOT TOUCH IT! Touching transfers oil from your skin to the metal and you have negated all of the preparation you have done before touching the bare metal. I prefer a rust resistant primer, such as zinc chromate, but zinc chromate is out of favor due to hazardous materials concerns. Get the best rust resistant primer you can legally purchase. POR is a good product; but you may not be able to get it other than by mail. After applying the primer according to the manufacturer's instructions, I like to let it dry at least overnight before applying the color coat.
After thoroughly drying the rust-resistant primer, you can either go straight to a color coat or apply an additional primer coat before the color coat. Depending on where the rust is occurring, the paint can be applied with a brush or sprayed on.
This is the Cliff Notes version of repairing an area of sheetmetal that has suffered cosmetic rust. The sooner you catch rust, the better. In a worst case, you are looking at welding in replacement sheetmetal. And realistically, when you have to weld in replacement sheetmetal, you are at the start of a viscous circle where the metal around the weld area starts to rust. Hope this helps.
#78
Originally Posted by caminifan
For those whose rust warranty has lapsed, the following is how I have handled cosmetic rust in prior lifetimes:
diluted phosphoric acid or diluted hydrochloric (muriatic) acid. I personally prefer the diluted phosphoric acid, but hydrochloric acid works well too. When you are not seeing the acid solution turn redish while it is being applied
diluted phosphoric acid or diluted hydrochloric (muriatic) acid. I personally prefer the diluted phosphoric acid, but hydrochloric acid works well too. When you are not seeing the acid solution turn redish while it is being applied
#83
Originally Posted by antsmini
No rust on my 05, the door sills are painted under there.
Was water buildup though.
Was water buildup though.
Looks like ill be pulling up the weatherstrip at least once a week and wiping it dry, just to be sure... Atleast until Mini/BMW solves this problem!
#84
Originally Posted by SwingMCS03
but I found this thread from a link on Motoringfile. The floodgates are open...
Edited to add I double checked my registration and I DO have an 03! Someone call motoring file and tell them to extend the mass hysteria to 03 owners too..........
#86
#87
#88
Naval Jelly
Originally Posted by okraD La
WOW dude, thanks for that DIY very informative. ...I have a question.... where can one procure the above listed phosphoric or muriatic acid?
#89
Originally Posted by dbwilldo
Any pool supply store or Home Depot carries Muriatic acid for sure.
#90
Originally Posted by OKeefe
If you check the active ingedient of most any 'rust converter' at your paint/home improvement store you'll probably see phosphoric listed. Biggest difference in the products is the use or not of a 'binder'. Some are liquid, some a gel. Since you want the acid to sit on the rust for a bit, gel may be better in this application.
#91
Originally Posted by Skiploder
Cool thread - apprently the rust is only on a handful of 2002's (I guess all of us with 03s, 04s, 05s and this problem don't know what year our cars are) and this thread is full of "mass hysteria".
Edited to add I double checked my registration and I DO have an 03! Someone call motoring file and tell them to extend the mass hysteria to 03 owners too..........
Edited to add I double checked my registration and I DO have an 03! Someone call motoring file and tell them to extend the mass hysteria to 03 owners too..........
#92
need to wash 'em off
Originally Posted by caminifan
Very true (about gel binders), depending on the extent of the rust. However, some binders are not friendly to paint and would need to be removed/neutralized before application of the paint. If you don't do the removal/neutralization, the paint will loosen and then the rust starts all over again. Only, this time, you thoght you solved the problem and don't check and with the passage of time, a hole develops and your car has rust cancer.
And that can be an advantage of buying a 'system' like POR or EASTWOOD as the instructions cover using the products as a set of linked steps. Somewhere I saw a review of POR and EASTWOOD that went beyond doing it following the instructions, but also covered the reults when the process took some shortcuts...interesting stuff.
and oh btw - buying a can of each step of POR for this small issue seems like real overkill. Sand or wirebrush it and hit with some rust-o-leum and know it is an area to watch is probably good enough. I'd only use the fancy stuff cuz it is already in the garage fm the 79
#93
Originally Posted by Skiploder
Cool thread - apprently the rust is only on a handful of 2002's (I guess all of us with 03s, 04s, 05s and this problem don't know what year our cars are) and this thread is full of "mass hysteria".
Edited to add I double checked my registration and I DO have an 03! Someone call motoring file and tell them to extend the mass hysteria to 03 owners too..........
Edited to add I double checked my registration and I DO have an 03! Someone call motoring file and tell them to extend the mass hysteria to 03 owners too..........
#94
Originally Posted by SpiderX
I think that it is not only a handful... the % has been fairly high and this is only people who pay attention to NAM etc....most of the Mini owners I know don't even know what NAM is or any online Mini board for that matter......let's not "freak" but let's not ignore and/or diminish the probability
In the past, they've been very upfront about known issues such as the wiring harnesses and the car fires. Why should we expect anything less than full cooperation from them?
Then we can plan on mass hysteria.
#95
Originally Posted by caminifan
Regarding the 05s, my MCSa with a 3/23 build date came with a 144 month (12 year) unlimited mileage rust warranty. I don't know when the warranty was extended to 12 years, but to give that long of a warranty (even if it is only for penetration/hole developing), there must be some sort of galvanizing that is done to the body panels.
#96
Spider X, thanks for this thread. I have an 05 cabrio and will check.
I do dry the door jams after every wash - but those who live in rainy areas will get extra water in the jams every time it rains. Clearly - it's not sensible to dry the jams after every rain.
MINIUSA better fix this quick...
BTW - I use a cheap vaccum/blower to blow extra water out parts difficult to get to after a wash...maybe that would help dry out the jams better. It was only $15 at Home Depot...
I do dry the door jams after every wash - but those who live in rainy areas will get extra water in the jams every time it rains. Clearly - it's not sensible to dry the jams after every rain.
MINIUSA better fix this quick...
BTW - I use a cheap vaccum/blower to blow extra water out parts difficult to get to after a wash...maybe that would help dry out the jams better. It was only $15 at Home Depot...
#100