I had no question in my mind about breaking in the engine "properly" per the manual (and the good people at white roof radio) until a good friend of mine who is very much "in the know" about cars email me this:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This seems like a scam to me..

I'm all confused.

Any thoughts?

 

Ron, have you done a search on this topic? It's been discussed in-depth on NAM since 2002.

There is the school of thought that you absolutely must follow the manual to the tee, and there is the opposing theory that you should drive it full-bore from the moment you peel out of the lot.

I followed the Owner's Manual recommendations and have a wonderful MINI. Several of my friends did just the opposite and they ALSO have wonderful MINIs. All I can say is I tend to believe the manufacturer's recommendations. Whatever you decide, in the end, it's really up to you.

 

The Mini engineers know everything there is to know about cars! /sarcasm. So obviously 1250 is proper, even though it's way above most break in periods. Which makes you wonder why some break-in periods are as short as 500.

There is also a little video clip (which I linked in another thread like this) where Mike Cooper (the man who runs JCW atm), said that with today's technology 1200 mile break-ins should be a thing of the past, and he didnt suggest anyting over 200 for any of his JCW cars when he sells them.

Personally I followed the break in that MotoMan suggests, and at 25,000 I have no problems at all.

The thing to consider is that if you don't follow Mini's suggested break in, it could affect your warranty coverage of your engine, and possibly transmission if the dealership wants to hold you accountable for going over the RPM they suggest at break-in. They are Big Brother when it comes to data logging...and they know everything.

 

MINI/BMW have recommended a specific break-in protocol that they have published in the Owners Manual. You don't have to follow it. You can follow some other model (such as proposed by mototuneusa.com). However, if you experience engine failure and if MINI decides to download engine operating parameters that may be stored in the DME, you could look at a warranty denial issue. (I don't know how much provision exists in the MINI's DME for storage of historical readings, but other manufacturers have extensive provision for storage - the Corvette (C5 & C6) has an extensive storage capability to assist with diagnosis of operating complaints.) My personal experience with following the break-in protocol that MINI/BMW publishes in the Owners Manual is that it works. I have noticed that the engine doesn't really finish breaking in until around 7,000 miles (as indicated by increasing gas mileage until the 7,000 mile mark).

Net, net, it is your choice.

 

That is a very good point, caminifan. I agree that the engine really loosens up after 5-7K miles.

 

i think it is advised to break in most engines.
some cars if not properly broken in will burn through oil at a significantly faster rate.
the lancer evo for example is known to burn through oil fast when the engine isn't broken in properly.

 

thanks everyone.

i did a search and found the thread... reading carefully now...

I have to say I'd *rather* do the hard break-in (of course!), but I'd rather not have my car break-down on the 2000 mile drive back home to Seattle!

I think my plan will be to follow the MINI manual break-in procedure, but perhaps give the engine some high-revs here and there (under minimal load / in low gear) to get some good pressure on the rings and break in the car for "high speed"

 

Some manufacturers (Volvo is one) don't recommend a break-in process (go figure that one). However, that doesn't mean the engine is not (or already completed) breaking in. An engine oil analysis will prove that point (there will be metal particles in the oil until the break-in process completes). So, back to the MINI, it really does break-in beyond the 1,250 mile mark.

 

Depends on what you consider break-in. Like someone else mentioned, the engine doesn't completely loosen up until few thousand miles after the listed break-in.

I did the motoman method somewhat. Drive it like I stole it from the start.
One thing you have to keep in mind is that pretty much everything is dictated by $, not performance of the vehicle.

 

Use common sense... You are breaking in more than the engine.... brakes, tranny, diff, etc... These wear patterns need to be done properly for a long service life.
It is best to follow the manufacturers recommended procedure.

YOU are also getting adjusted to the car... So YOU need some time to get used to the feel... especially with the mini since it is very responsive and different from other cars. So its good to drive easy until you get some practice.

I have my own method of break-in... I go easy for the first 500 miles and work my way up to a more demanding drive. At 500 miles.. I begin to increase the revs going a little more every drive... It's being smooth thats important... don't be abusive and don't be afraid to get on it in a easy going fashion... A little common sense goes a long way..

As far as these other extreme procedures... I call BS. Seems everybody wants to have a website and become an expert. I'm sure there are many that abuse their cars from day one and they are fine for thousands of miles.... but those that care for them and don't abuse them will have a "new" tight feeling car for a long time...

 

good point. sounds like a few high-rev runs and cool-downs would be good in the first couple hundred miles, then moderate speeds and lots of rev variation for the next 1000

 

Yes.. heat cycles are good for break-in... vary the engine speed.. be smooth...!

 

Funny, but I follow a very similar model with each car that I buy:
First 500 miles - don't go above 3,000 rpm with a lot of revs (up to the 3,000 RPM point) and deceleration (there are a bunch of hills near where I live - zoom, zoom).
From 500 miles to 1,250 miles vary the engine load (hills again, stop and go traffic) while observing the 4,000 RPM rev restriction.
For the entire 1,250 mile break-in period, I take short trips (round trip is ~20 miles) to get the car up to operating temperature and then shut it down upon returning home to let the engine cool. Repeat the process the next day to get multiple thermal cycles during the break-in process.

This model has resulted in very well-sealed rings and piston bores. I had one car that I sold at 80,000 miles and the buyer wanted to have a cylinder leak down test performed to check the condition of the engine. The test results were right at what was specified for a new engine.

 

And remember the break-in is where the differance of 2,3,4 hundred thousand miles is reflected, if you are buying your MINI 25k with no issues is no feat, 300, with nothing beyond regular maintaince is where the diffeances start to come in, I expect my MINI to last me to 500k without me ever having to think of reliability, but also from 35k on oil changes and filter cleanings are every 5k, I'll be using the full synthetic beyond what MINI reccomends and be very through with maintance to be 100% sure that it will start and run 100% of the time. I followed the MINI instructions to the T and even took anther 15k to slowly work closer and closer to redline 500 RPM at a time and only go over 3500 RPM after the engine is warm and so on, take care of tyour MINI and she'll (yes my MINI is a "she") take care of you.

 

I dunno, I've disassembled engines with over 250,000 miles on them and they still had crosshatching in the bores; only got wiped on the thrust side from the piston skirt. Anybody who has carefully arranged the ring gaps around a piston for assembly knows the gaps spin rapidly around when in operation, making high and low spots kind of moot. And since the gaps keep growing throughout the life of the engine, the "stop wearing into the cylinder" part is suspect.

Modern rings are supposed to seat pretty much instantly, and most modern engines are testfired on the assembly line using natural gas to check for leaks and vibration. GM runs them in for 10 minutes at no-load (the "worst thing for a new engine"), then another 10 minutes under load. The LS7, and the MINI, are factory filled with full synthetic oil, which Mr. Moto says is a no-no until after "at least two full days of racing."

It's the old hard-chrome faced rings that needed thousands of miles to break in, because they were so hard. If you messed up the break-in on those, the engine would use oil forever.

 

sorry to dig up an old topic, but I have been thinking about this for a while before I pick up my mini next month..

How are folks feeling about this now that it is 2 years later?

same link in original post:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have had 3 sportbikes since 2002 and have agreed with motoman.
I believe in the grip it and rip it mentality. I did the same with my M3 before selling it. My neighbor who is a big motorhead follows this guy as well.

however couple posts above did make me think about the new transmission, suspension etc..

So I think I will modify it a bit. For the first 500, I will keep the rpm's low for continuous driving, but blip it up ever so often. 500 - 1250 I will keep the RPM's all over the map, and dig into the car..

If any of the folks here have cars in the 80K - 100K+ it would be great if they could chime in on their break in and how well their car runs today..

 

I'm in the "it must be broken in hard" category of thinking. Makes a lot of sense to me, but hey people can do whatever they want with their cars. I won't have the car past 100k miles I'm sure anyway.

Followed the break in procedure on mototune at 50 miles in my new R56. According to him, even that is too late. Took it easier after that for a while, but still drove it decently hard. Changed the oil at 2000 (would have done it sooner, but was on a road trip)...did not see too many metal flakes at all, which I was sort of suprised about. Switched over to 0W-40 synthetic and will be changing it again at 5k.

Currently at about 3500, and the car feels strong...stronger than other R56's I've been in. Musta been the "proper" hard break-in.

 

 

I've owned a lot of new cars. I've always tried to follow the manufacturer's recommendations on break in, varying the motor speed and taking it easy on the brakes and other moving parts. I've always changed my motor oil early to get the particles out. I've always had particles of some kind. When you stop breaking in or start changing oil is just a judgment call.

If you don't do these things, it's just like smoking cigarettes for a few years.
Or putting paint on bare wood without priming first. Long term you pay. As the commercial goes, pay me now or pay me later.

 

I pick up my new Mini next month so I've been researching this quite a bit.

I've worked on engines and have broken in cars in the past. The "drive it softly" method per the manuel just doesn't make sense. I also feel like a few have stated that most of the break in and testing has been done by the factory before we even get the car.

So, I plan on revving it throughout the rpm range a little, I'll avoid driving at a constant speed (i.e. a 2 hour trip on the freeway in 4th gear going 55 the entire way), ..and I plan on changing the oil after about 300 miles.

 

I would follow the MINI guide regarding break-in. I have always with all my cars, and I have had quite a lot considered break-in for 1,000-1,500 miles with an increasingly amount and higher top rpm as the miles progressed without maintaining a constant speed. I have not had any problems nor have I burned any oil on any of my vehicles. I disagree with MINI on the lengthly oil changes so I go with 5,000 miles per oil and filter change with the first change at 1,000 miles. Again no problems. You can do what you want but I am convinced.