My SES light came on a few days ago (100k miles, can't complain). So I pulled a code at AutoZone (P0455). Called Mini of Peabody (who is AWESOME), but they told me that I need a more specific code to give a true diagnosis over the phone (I am over 1 hour away). They said that a BMW dealer should be able to pull the needed code. I called 2 dealers, 1 near work, 1 near home, neither would do it for me.

I don't know, but I think it stinks that the parent company won't help out, even a little bit.

Anybody know of a way to get a more accurate code? I mean it is probably a gas cap, but I'd like to be sure. I'm thinking I could perhaps replace the O-ring, reset the code and see if it comes back.

 

100k? WOW! Congrats!

Good luck finding help!

 

BMW just wants their $85 to hook up and tell you have a (P0455) code and should reset it.

 

This may suck, but BMW service is a lot better than most of the high-dollar competition out there. I dont know what to tell you though; try talking to a technician from the dealer instead of a service manager if that is what you are doing.

 

I do not think the BMW dealers are aallowed to do warranty work on Minis based on their franchise agreements. I think that is to proctec the newer Mini dealers as not all BMW dealers were granted Mini franshices.

It may sould petty, but business is business. Most independent shops can clear codes and the rates are usually cheaper than a dealer.

Vince

 

I would just go into the dealership instead of calling. If you are there in person asking for help, I doubt they'd turn you away.

 

The local MINI dealer is next door to a BMW dealer. One of the MA advisors there told me yesterday that the BMW employee's treat the MINI employees as the evil stepchildren... I found that kinda funny. I also had my SES light come on. I just took it to the dealer to reset or investigate... I'm closer to my dealer. Gotta make sure I'm good to go to AMVIV next month...

 

Right, I agree about just showing up. But I work a long way from home and getting to the dealer is difficult. Getting to MINI is worse. I don't want any work done, just the code. My dealer claims they will get a "more specific" code. It's not under warrenty, so that doesn't apply. Guess I just expected some sort of professional courtesy between the two business'. In fact I would bet good money that if I took a BMW to a MINI dealer with the same request, they would do it.

 

I've found that if I attempt to go to BMW (one trip was for a tire rotation) they are afraid to touch the car because they aren't "MINI Certified" and are trying to get a MINI dealer of their own. SO it makes things more difficult but for now I'm hauling the 100miles to the MINI dealer. Now if only I could be a certified MINI tech, or at least have acess to their tools and do all the work myself...

 

If you're talking about the BMW dealer in Nashua, i'm not surprised by the result. they're one of the worst places around.. not just service but sales too.. But i should thank them for not letting me test drive the 325Ci.. I went to Peabody and bought my MINI the next day Made sure to call and tell them too

But back to your problem"
A code p0455 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:


-A loose or improperly affixed gas cap
-A non-conforming gas cap (i.e. not factory/original brand)
-Other leak or damaged piece in EVAP system


my guess it's #1.. see if it stays lit after it cycles a couple of times. If it's something more, at least MOP has saturday hours now..

 

We bought our Mini from Nashville, live in B'ham, tried to get the BMW dealer here in B'ham (owned by the same parent co as BMW of Nashville), they turned us away also, it was for a basic oil change we couldn't believe they wouldn't even change the oil . So I feel your agravation!!!

 

Does any one know how to "reset the computer" on the MINI?

On alot of cars if you just disconnect the battery for 10min it will "reset" clearing the codes, I have always concidered this the first step to troubleshooting. If the light comes back on you know you have a real problem if it stays off, then don't worry about it

 

Copied from https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&highlight=v39




OK, I just did it! I reset My ECU using MINI2.com's detailed instructions...very cool![IMG]images/smilies/thumb-up.gif[/IMG]


We'll see how it goes from this point on.

Below are the instructions to how to access the computer's "back door" thru your LCD speedo display:
Seeing as I mentioned this in another thread elsewhere on MINI2, here's a quick how-to on getting a bit more information from your MINI's computer.

The information displays in place of your mileometer, so you DO NOT have to have the MINI OBC/Trip Computer option to see this.

A complete list of functions is below, this example is how to get into the menu number '7'.

1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1.
2. The screen will say 'Test' and a number.
3. Scroll through, (pressing reset button) through to test 19 and wait a moment.
4. Wait and the message will say "log i-off" then "log i-on" and back to "log i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press again. You are now in the system. (Woooo)
5. You can (if you wish) start the ignition any time from now.
6. Scroll through to test 7.0 (or whichever from the list below) and wait a moment, after a pause you will enter the test 7.* range of information.
7. You can scroll through now (7.1,7.2,7.3 etc.) using the reset button.
8. You can exit each menu by pressing, holding for a few seconds, then releasing the reset button.
9. To leave the system scroll to 19 and leave it for a few moments.
   Switching off the ignition also exits the system.

Test:

1.0 Chassis number
1.1 Kilometer count
1.2 Parts number
1.3 Coding-, Diagnostic- and Bus-index
1.4 Production Date (Calender week/year)
1.5 Hard- and Software status
1.6 Injectorstatus, Cylinder count, Engine factor.

2.0 Combisystem Test

3.0 Service intervall counter

4.0 Actual fuel consumption in l/100km. eg.0154 = 15,4 liters/100kms.
4.1 Consumption in liters/100kms.

5.0 Distance consumption in l/100kms.
5.1 Actual rest distance with available fuel in Kms.

6.0 Actual amount of fuel in tank. eg. 123321 =12,3liters left 32,1 liters right
6.1 Total amount of fuel in tank.
6.2 Show value of Fuel guage. 1= both senders OK, 2= sender failure, 3=ti signal unplausible (no reading)

7.0 Actual coolant temp.
7.1 Actual outside temp.
7.2 Actual engine revs.
7.3 Actual speed

8.0 Hexadecimal readings of menu 7.0 to 7.3

9.0 Actual on board voltage (Battery)

10.0 Land codes

11.0 Unit codes

12.0 No funktion

13.0 Gong test

14.0 - 14.4 On board diagnostic codes. eg 000000 = no failures

15.0 - 18.0 No funktion

19.0 On/Off for Test menu.

20.0 Correction factor for Fuel consumption
Formula for correction:
Shown consumption x 1000 / user defined consumption
Push the trip reset button to begin the correction. Numbers count up from 0-9, when correct number shows push trip reset button.

20.1 Sets 10ths. for consumption factor
20.2 Sets 100ths. and 1000ths. for consumption factor
20.3 Saves the new consumption factor and shows new value

21.0 Software reset. (Same as disconnecting battery)

Notes:

I have not been able to get speed into MPH, if you can update me with how to do this (if it's possible), then feel free to do so.

Your MINI's computer may give more or less information than stated above

 

At that mileage I wouldn't be surprised if you were due to replace an O-2 (oxygen) sensor.

 

Here is info on the code:

P0455 OBD-II Trouble Code

Technical Description

Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (no purge flow or large leak)
What does that mean?

This indicates a fuel vapor leak or lack of purge flow in the EVAP control system. It means a large leak has been detected. The (EVAP) emission control system prevents the escape of fuel vapors from a vehicle's fuel system. Fuel vapors are routed by hoses to a charcoal canister for storage. Later, when the engine is running a purge control valve opens allowing intake vacuum to siphon the fuel vapors into the engine.
Symptoms

You likely won't notice any drivability problems.
Causes

A code p0455 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:

• A loose or improperly affixed gas cap
• A non-conforming gas cap (i.e. not factory/original brand)
• Other leak or damaged piece in EVAP system

Possible Solutions

With a p0455, the most common repair is to:

• Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the codes, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back.
• Otherwise, replace the gas cap, and/or
• Inspect the EVAP system for cuts/holes in tubes/hoses (you may hear a vacuum noise or smell fuel), repair if necessary

 

Well, I just heard back from the dealer regarding my SES light that came on. It was due to the Fuel line leakage, that was the code, with 0 faults. Meaning, it just tripped. They don't know why. They reset it and test drove it around. everything looks to be in good order... my dealer will be the second to know if its not.

 

Yeah, that's the ironic thing. When I called the dealer about things to do at 100k the service manager (who is AWESOME) told me the recommended service points are belt, plugs, and O2 sensor. But he said "don't worry about the sensor if the SES light isn't on", and I agreed. We both had a laugh over that one.

Anyway, wouldn't I have a different code? And while I'm on it what aftermarket OBD reader gives these "more specific" codes that the dealer spoke of? Carchip? Peak?

-Jim

 

That's really useful and detailed info. Where did you pull it from?
Umm, I'm thinking URL, not orifice...<g>

Neil
05 MCS
96 M3

 

www.obd-codes.com/


Garrett

 

Was it a scheduled oil change or one you planned on paying for?