Blown Spark Plug!!
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Joined: Jul 2005
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I appreciate everyone's comments on this issue. I have decided to replace the head, have it ported and polished and switch the stock cam to a schrick cam. I am still undecided as to which plugs to put in it. Seems there is a lot of controversy on the Densos. Any suggestions?
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2005
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Originally Posted by crzycpr
I appreciate everyone's comments on this issue. I have decided to replace the head, have it ported and polished and switch the stock cam to a schrick cam. I am still undecided as to which plugs to put in it. Seems there is a lot of controversy on the Densos. Any suggestions?
good luck.
Moderator
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 941
Likes: 4
Originally Posted by Rawhyde
[snip]
FREE TIPS:
1. Don't remove a spark plug from an aluminum cylinder head unless it is COLD. If you do it hot, or even moderately warm, you can pull the threads right out of the head.
2. Steel screwed into aluminum sets up galvanic corrosion. Put it in at 20 ft-lb and you may need over 100 ft-lb of torque to remove it later on. USE ANTI-SEIZE when putting a steel fastener into aluminum. Let me repeat that for emphasis. USE ANTI-SEIZE when putting a steel fastener into aluminum!
FREE TIPS:
1. Don't remove a spark plug from an aluminum cylinder head unless it is COLD. If you do it hot, or even moderately warm, you can pull the threads right out of the head.
2. Steel screwed into aluminum sets up galvanic corrosion. Put it in at 20 ft-lb and you may need over 100 ft-lb of torque to remove it later on. USE ANTI-SEIZE when putting a steel fastener into aluminum. Let me repeat that for emphasis. USE ANTI-SEIZE when putting a steel fastener into aluminum!
Thanks for the tips! I've been using a torque wrench for sparkplugs for a long time, but didn't know about the temperature problem nor using anti-seize. Thanks!
5th Gear
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 688
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Not that it matters but Ford has the same/worse problem with the 5.4.
It happens with even the OEM plugs installed at the factory. They won't pay a dime and it is a very common problem. Strange thing the new 3V 5.4 has more threads for the spark plug. The original had just 3 treads
It happens with even the OEM plugs installed at the factory. They won't pay a dime and it is a very common problem. Strange thing the new 3V 5.4 has more threads for the spark plug. The original had just 3 treads
6th Gear
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,348
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From: Everett, WA
Originally Posted by BuckeyeMCS
Not that it matters but Ford has the same/worse problem with the 5.4.
It happens with even the OEM plugs installed at the factory. They won't pay a dime and it is a very common problem. Strange thing the new 3V 5.4 has more threads for the spark plug. The original had just 3 treads
It happens with even the OEM plugs installed at the factory. They won't pay a dime and it is a very common problem. Strange thing the new 3V 5.4 has more threads for the spark plug. The original had just 3 treads
Luckily, had my '01 F150 5.4 since '02, and no blown plugs.
5th Gear
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 931
Likes: 14
From: NW Georgia, USA
Originally Posted by LombardStreet
Rawhyde -
Thanks for the tips! I've been using a torque wrench for sparkplugs for a long time, but didn't know about the temperature problem nor using anti-seize. Thanks!
Thanks for the tips! I've been using a torque wrench for sparkplugs for a long time, but didn't know about the temperature problem nor using anti-seize. Thanks!
Rawhyde
Excellent hint from a friend...
to get all the little bits of metal out before you helicoil a head on the car, stuff pantyhose into the cylinder. Every little bit of metal will get caught, and when you pull them out with some hemostats, no more shavings!
Matt
Matt
Third hint...
Originally Posted by Eric_Rowland
Good hint, Matt. But now the dilemma - risk metal shavings in your cylinder, or try to explain to your wife why you're taking her pantyhose out into the garage...
Matt
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 48
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Well this weekend I've finally removed the head en route to a helicoil in cylinder #2. I've decided to go with the stock head gasket and some Bosch Platinum 4's instead of the Denso's. Hopefully this will help with the spark plug issue but I'm going to torque them down every month for sure. This was a pain...
I also need to remove my 15% pulley to qualify for STX...
So...as promised...here are some pictures. It's been over a month since I've driven the car and I can't wait to get it all back together. It's unbelievable how much crap I had to remove from the car just to get the head off. All this to avoid metal chips in the motor....a lot of work but now at least I know more about the car.
Other mods I'm doing before autox season include front camber plates, Schroth harnesses, and I'm going to look for some Koni's possibly.
Anyone got any advice for putting it all back together? Everything looks pretty standard so it should go well. I'll post some more when its back together...
I also need to remove my 15% pulley to qualify for STX...
So...as promised...here are some pictures. It's been over a month since I've driven the car and I can't wait to get it all back together. It's unbelievable how much crap I had to remove from the car just to get the head off. All this to avoid metal chips in the motor....a lot of work but now at least I know more about the car.
Other mods I'm doing before autox season include front camber plates, Schroth harnesses, and I'm going to look for some Koni's possibly.
Anyone got any advice for putting it all back together? Everything looks pretty standard so it should go well. I'll post some more when its back together...
3rd Gear
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 294
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From: Lafayette, CA
what?
are you kidding me? now I have 2 cars with plug issues....great.
Originally Posted by Wagnbat
I've been reading that over at the f150 forums. I have an F150 too and was cross searching the plugs when I was trying to troubleshoot some engine/lifter noise.
Luckily, had my '01 F150 5.4 since '02, and no blown plugs.
Luckily, had my '01 F150 5.4 since '02, and no blown plugs.
4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 418
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From: Indiana
Well, I'm tempted to try it again but I'm not going to. I just know when I clicked on one of those pics, my computer instantly gave me a warning and highly recommended I shut down my internet connection.
Now back to rebuilding that engine. Good luck. I have a hard time finding the dipstick and reading the dang thing.
Now back to rebuilding that engine. Good luck. I have a hard time finding the dipstick and reading the dang thing.
Originally Posted by SwingMCS03
Well, I'm tempted to try it again but I'm not going to. I just know when I clicked on one of those pics, my computer instantly gave me a warning and highly recommended I shut down my internet connection.
Now back to rebuilding that engine. Good luck. I have a hard time finding the dipstick and reading the dang thing.
Now back to rebuilding that engine. Good luck. I have a hard time finding the dipstick and reading the dang thing.
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,957
Likes: 2
From: a canyon, south Bay Area
Just thought it wise to revive this thread as I believe many might not be aware... Seeing this thread in the Performance Forum, had me thinking that this might be prudent:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=76773
Having had an aftermkt top mount IC blocking access to the spark plugs, I wasn't checking as often as would otherwise. I recently installed the DFIC top mount, and decided to check them as this unit doesn't cover the plugs, and 3 were loose!!! I had last checked 3 months ago, and torqued them to 21 ft-lbs, using anti-seize.
Just a friendly reminder...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=76773
Having had an aftermkt top mount IC blocking access to the spark plugs, I wasn't checking as often as would otherwise. I recently installed the DFIC top mount, and decided to check them as this unit doesn't cover the plugs, and 3 were loose!!! I had last checked 3 months ago, and torqued them to 21 ft-lbs, using anti-seize.
Just a friendly reminder...