So I am changing my rear rotors and pads (BTW...nice write ups on NAM!) and the left one goes pretty well, but I went to change the right one and the bolt that holds the rotor on is stuck so tight, it has become stripped. (Not all the way, but very, very close)

Any ideas on how to get it off? I tried some WD-40, but it did not work. Also, any idea where I can get a new one besides the dealership? And what exactly it is called when I call and ask someone about it?

Thanks for any help. The brakes have been really easy so far and I would hate to have to go to the dealership to get one side done.

 

Take a look here http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...35&hg=34&fg=10

sounds like 07136754666$0.78

but you need to look at the diagram to be exact:smile:

 

Thanks! That helps a lot.

Any suggestions on removal? I know I have seen tools at Sears that will remove screws (bolts too?) that are stripped. Think this will work?

 

Heat it up and give it a good smack with a hammer - that's what the dealers do as well. I had the same problem, drilled the top of the bolt out (needed to get new brakes on for the track) and have one rotor installed without it. It just holds it in place, so im careful that it's on right when I mount the wheel.

phil.

 

Phil-

Thanks. Never thought about not reinstalling the bolt. I guess the wheel bolts hold it just fine.

Does anyone know of any reason I would have to reinstall the Torx bolt?

I think I will try the Sears Screw-Out tool and hopefully it will be able to grab it and pull it out. If not, I will be calling the dealer on Monday.

 

IN general, I think you would have to drill it out?

 

Before you drill it out, try an impact screwdriver:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46978



Sears sells one too, but it's twice as much. You put the appropriate bit on the thing, stick it into your messed up screw and give it a good rap with a hammer. Should get the job done.

 

Impact drivers are a godsend. You can drill the head off, remove the rotor & possibly have enough screw remaining to remove with vicegrips. If you don't have this bolt & your wheel & pads & caliper fall off, so will the rotor

 

You could try an application of Liquid Wrench followed by a smack with an impact wrench. If that doesn't work, then plan B in the past was to get a hammer and cold chisel and whack away at the edge of the bolt head to loosen it. If that fails, get a drill bit whose head is dimensionally close to the outside of the bolt head and drill it out, remove the rotor and then use Vice-Grips to remove the bolt. When I had a Diesel Rabbit in another lifetime, I had the exact same problem with the rotor retaining bolts. The problem of corrosion does not seem to have been solved in the intervening 27 years.

Anyone have any thoughts (pro or con) about using anti-sieze compound on the bolt when it is re-installed on the new rotor?

 

Thanks for all the ideas. I will probably try the impact driver and then move to the drill. I hope the impact driver works. I will let you know how it goes.

 

Morty73 and all,

The impact screw driver as plan A and the drill and vice grip as plan B has worked for me. The corrosion problem is easily prevented by using Never Seize or the NAPA anti-seize substitute #80078 on the threads. "A little dab 'll do ya."

The never seize lubricant can be used on the wheel bolts and about every other chassis and drivetrain fastener that you can think of. Especially exhaust fasteners.

Best of luck,
John Petrich in Seattle

 

That bolt is used to hold the rotor because they did not use studs, if you converted to studs then you do not need that bolt the four weel nuts will do just fine

 

Thanks for all the help and ideas! I tried the impact driver and it did not budge. I then tried to drill it out and that did not work and not wanting to create a worse mess for someone else, I quit. Took it to a local shop and they drilled it out and replaced the rotors and pads in less than 45 minutes. Cost me $90 bucks, but it was worth it. No more frustration on my part.

 

Morty73,


Did you do the Never Seize? If not, you're likely to be back in the same situation again.

Regards,
John Petrich in Seattle

 

John-

I did not. I have to go to the dealer tomorrow to have a speaker replaced and will pick-up two new screws at that time and will replace the ones on the rotors (not sure what the shop used, but can guess that it is not exactly like the original) and will try the Never Seize. Thanks again!

 

just brake the stupid thing of don't worry about it not really needed just help when lining up the rotor holes for the wheel lugs

 

I'm bumping this to the top. I just broke this bolt off on one of the rear rotors. I didn't replace it either. It's purpose seems to be to hold the rotor in place to make reinstalling easier. My local mechanic (gm dealer) didn't even know why they bothered to have it in the first place, and said to go with out it because the lug bolts are what actually hold the rotors on. I said ok... cause I wanted the nightmare to end!

 

You'd be crazy NOT to. I pulled mine out and anti-seized the bolts the first week I had my MINI. I've been in similar situations before. When I get a new car, I look it over very closely and try to imagine what will eventually be a royal pain to work on and take appropriate preventive maintenance steps.

You could order up another bolt, or remove one intact and take it to an industrial nut and bolt house and get it matched up. Socket head (Allen head) screws are MUCH MUCH more resistant to stripping out the heads than Torx screws. Might as well upgrade to a better part if you're replacing a bolt.

If you choose not to replace the bolt, the wheel and lugs will hold the rotor in place just fine, but having the rotor bolt in place will make lining everything up much easier.

Rawhyde

 

I did the same as Rawhyde - lubed those bolts up the first time I had the wheels off.
I'd have to disagree about an Allen head being more resistant to stripping than a torx, though. I've stripped a few Allens, but never (in far less experience) had an issue with the torx. Just visually, they have much more surface contact.

 

if it brakes it brakes don't worry about it. isonly there to hold the rotor to make installation easier.

if you get it out and is damaged, replace it and use anti seize.
good luck!

 

The only thing that gets them out is an impact gun. You will strip them every single time if you try to do it by hand. Worse case sceniro is the impact gun breaks the head off....then your good to go.

 

True, the screw is there for alignment. It comes in handy to prevent the brake rotor from rotating about the hub surface when you install wheels.

You buy a aluminum lug assist tool to keep the holes aligned when you install wheels from www.metalnerd.com (M12x1.5)

 

Get an Impact screwdriver!!!! They sell them cheap at Harbor Freight. I bought one from Sears and I love it. I had the same problem on one of my other cars and after many hours of using a screwdriver, I finally gave up. Mind you that the car was 10 years old the rotor was rusted on there. I got this wonderful tool and BAM, the bolt came off like nothing. The nice thing about the impact screwdriver is that it will take out even fairly stripped out bolt heads, becuase you are applying force toward the bolt and turning it at the same time. This tool in my tool box and I recommend this as early apex said..

 

yeah, my integra had a screw for this, and I stripped the **** out of it (it was a phillips head). Impact screwdriver took it RIGHT out though, definitely worth the investment, and they are cheap at harbor freight. Harbor freight RULES for car tools, I just got a caliper piston compression tool (one that compresses and turns a spanner attatchment at the same time) from there (for my mazda) and it was only $15, well worth it

 

I used an impact gun and broke 3 of the 4 bolts' heads clean off. It also spun 1 of my 2 Torx bits round. I have converted to studs, so no need to have the bolt hold the rotor in place anymore.

Save that $0.78 for a cold diet Pepsi after the chore is done. Very refreshing after hasseling that right rear piston back into place.