http://new.minimania.com/web/item/NME7615/InvDetail.cfm

Is this an ok gasket?

any other place to get them from?

My local dealer is over 3 hour round trip :(

 

That is the same gasket you'd get from the dealer, who would probably charge twice that.

 

What sealer did you use?

There's a slow seeping from my pan. Considering doing it myself since the dealer will not apply any sort of sealant to the gasket to improve the seal, thus so many stories of people returning for 2nd or 3rd replacements.

 

Any DIY for this yet?

 

http://r53minicooper.wordpress.com/2...s-r53-summary/

here is a DIY for the replacement of the oil pan gasket

Does anyone know what the Tightening torque 51 11 1AZ code means in ft-lbs?

 

51 11 1AZ refers the tightening torque of the front bumper lower spoiler to modular front end and is
6 Nm or 4.4 ft-lbs. (Looked the codes up on my TIS CD)

Here are the rest - in order of appearance:

51 11 2az - 5 Nm - 3.7 ft lb
51 11 6az - 6 Nm - 4.4 ft lb
11 13 1az - 25 Nm - 18 ft lb
11 13 3az - 12 Nm - 9 ft lb
11 13 4az - 31 Nm - 23 ft lb
11 13 5az - 31 Nm - 23 ft lb
64 52 1az - 25 Nm - 18 ft lb
32 41 14az - 19 Nm - 14 ft lb
11 12 16az - 100 Nm - 74 ft lb
11 12 19az - 45 Nm - 33 ft lb
11 13 2az - 31 Nm - 23 ft lb

 

Some kind of generic oil pan gasket sealer from Autozone. There is now a slow seep started again.

The problem here is the angle of the pan and the way the oil comes to rest when the car is sitting.

Here is a crude representation that exaggerates the condition slightly.



So oil seeps out of the back. Also, if you have lower engine mount polyurethane bushings or a solid lower engine mount, that will transfer vibration and engine bucking force onto the pan's bolts and gasket - perhaps making it worse.

 

Mine actually is seeping from the front. I will double-check to make sure it's not coming from the valve cover, but I am thinking it's from the crank position O-ring :( The lower front half of the motor is caked with the stuff. The rear is whistle clean.

 

I don't have the time to DIY (or the patience). 2006 model, bought 12/05, just about to hit 40k miles (have another car so both mileage stay lower than normal). Had I been putting normal 10-12k miles per year oil pan gasket would be in the '60k-ish' range that service writer tells me they fail.

What a crock, an oil pan gasket should last longer than that...

 

Yeah, after all the work I need to do on my car too, I am starting to believe these cars were designed for about 90-100k until needing a complete overhaul. I guess the price as new reflects this. My 05 Cayenne S (Yeah I drive an SUV too!) has about 98k on it and still has no oil leaks, struts are in good shape and so is everything else. Just normal wear and tear items and a couple design flaws that are cheaper to fix than the Minis that have better superceded parts. Of course this was a 75k car when new!

I have owned quit a few BMWs, Porsches, VWs, Landrovers and Jeeps over the years and with out a doubt, BMW parts have hands down been the most expensive with the least amount of aftermarket parts for basic stock needs.

 

Bavarians are known to be conservative cheapskates!!!

BMW: Bavarian Money Werk

 

Yee hah, another Porsche owner (even if it is the 'truck that killed the Porsche Lemans Prototype 2000 but saved the company' ;-)
I'd have a pepper if I could afford one actually.

My '95 993 C2 (69k miles) BARELY ever makes a mark (but helps that it's a dry sump). Only car I've had that seriously like to mark its territory was an Alfa 164, but it was a really good car, got to 90k with only normal maintenance.

Still waiting from the call from the dealer and the (hopefully) ride back there, they brought me home.

 

my oil pan had to be replaced at 70,000 miles the leak was so bad. now they want to sell the plug with every oil filter... i replace mine every 2 or 3 oil changes (at 5,000 miles).

 

Add me to the list, I had to have mine changed at about 34,000 do to a slight seepage (06 MCSc). The only bright spot was that the dealer changed it for free.

 

Just in the process of a 16% SC pulley install and belt swap on my 2002 MCS w/44K miles and noticed oil at the top back of the engine and all around the oil pan.

So looks like I have a couple gaskets failing. I am disappointed given the price point of the car but to be honest I am not surprised when you consider the bean counter perspective: gaskets do not sell cars and they are labor intensive repairs that probably make money for dealers...

 

Replaced my gasket at 123,000. DYI.
Takes a while. Car on ramps, with patience, a Bently manual, and following a DIY thread here on NAM finished the job in 8 hours. No special tools needed except the belt tensioner release bar. Made a pin to hold back the tensioner, used two long bolts to hold the front end assembly when it's pulled out to get to the A/C compressor bolts. Learned alot about the car doing it myself. Plan to tackle a clutch job soon.

 

Can someone please tell me how you convert from 11 13 2az to 31 Nm - 23 ft lb

Is there some sort of formula or something ?

 

Mine has been weeping for years, I suppose I will change it one day but it is such a minor weeping and I keep my eye on oil level.

 

http://www.convertunits.com/from/new...to/foot+pounds

That should do the trick....

 

what is the torque 21 11 1AZ thou how do I know what that is in ft lbs or Nm

 

I suspect that the pan gasket fails due to stress and vibration being that the lower motor mount bolts directly to the pan, meaning that some of the weight and motion of the engine is hanging on the pan. I replaced my pan gasket at about 125K. Time consuming but not difficult. Pay attention to torque specs and torque pattern.

 

did you use a gasket sealer too as some recommend?

 

No the gasket has small ridges on the top and bottom faces. Those should suffice. Just clean surfaces and torque to specs. Mine sealed up nicely. This week it's new struts, mini madness shock tower reinforcements, new ball joints, new strut mounts, new Sumitomo HZR lll tires plus bits and pieces, then a front end alignment. Should roll nicely

 

what is Tightening torque 21 11 1AZ in ft lbs

 

Did the oil pan gasket, crank sensor o ring, oil cooler o rings, and valve cover gasket myself between 120k and 125k and I have to say that, compared to the valve cover gasket, the oil pan was a breeze. I used hi temp sealant on all the gasket surfaces and have had no problems since. I take into consideration that this is an 8 year old car that has a fairly high strung engine before i try to compare the service intervals to something like my old Toyota which needed almost no work in the 7 years I had it. But, compared to my '98 Mustang, my MINI is a veritable problem free rock.