OK. I've read the threads about this. One thread says I need to get these 3000NFP floor jacks for about $100 each and jack the car at strategic locations on the underbody. Another says I should always use a lift. Another says use your floor jacks and put them at the "standard" jack points indicated in the owner's manual.

Here's my story: I already have a pair of acceptable floor jacks that are made of cast iron. The top of the jack is not flat but has a slight upward curve. The width of the jack top is slightly wider than the (plastic?) rectangular protrusion on the MINI that the owner's manual indicates as the jack point. My question is as follows: Will I be able to set the MINI down on the jack at the indicated jack point? Will the rectangular piece on the MINI that indicates the jack point withstand the weight of the vehicle or will it compress under load when placed on the cast iron of the jack? Should I fill that rectangular piece with a wood block to increase its strength and distribute the load across the cast iron jack? Should I choose a different jack point completely?

I hope that made sense. I appreciate any help and advice on this one.

 

I'm interested to know coz I'm about to install my shortshift kit.
Any suggestion?

 

jack it up and put it down on the blocks of rubber on your jackstands. there wont be a problem.

i would suguest using a lift if you have one, it saves alot of time.

 

I hope you mean jackstands. I wasn't too confident with placing the jackstand under the open box shape of the factory jackpoint as well. I did try the jackpoint with the full weight of the car and the plastic, though strong, did deform slightly. Not exactly confidence inspiring when working under the car. I did exactly what you mentioned a cut a piece of wood to fit inside the jackpoint. The piece of wood was a little taller than the depth of the box opening, so when it was under load it compressed somewhat to fit the contour of the jackstand arm. This actually worked quite well and I was able to complete my rear sway bar install with no problems from the jackstands/jackpoints.

 

Yes, I did mean jack stands. Thanks for the advice.

 

I've jacked up the MINI many times. Actually pretty easy (easier than the previous E36 M3). I jack up one side by the front jack pad. I place one stand under the rear jacking pad and another under the front subframe behind the control arm. Then move the other side and repeat. I have rather substantial 6-ton stands and the car doesn't move.

Btw, I've installed two short-shift kits (extension-style) and only raised the front of the car with drive-on ramps. It was a bit tight wrenching near the rear of the car, but there was plenty of room where the bulk of the work is done. I'll be installing another one in a week or two and will probably put it on stands.

 

Does anyone know if the plastic square surrounding the jack point can
be used to rais the vehicle with a floor jack or do I need to shape a piece of wood to fit inside the plastic surrounding the jack point ? I do not want to crush the jack points, but I need to rotate my tires. Thanks in advance for all suggestions.

 

YES, it is there for that reason.

P.S. Did you realize you just resurrected a thread from 2005

 

I've put my MINIs on jack stack stands using the jacking blocks with no wood since 2002

the secret is to put the car down EASY, I usually make a + between the block and the shoe of the stand.

The other issue is of course if you use the jack on the jacking block, where do you put the stand cuz of course you'd never work with the car on a jack right? Safety First.

Using a low profile jack I go to the front subframe element behind the engine, just a wee bit forward of the jacking block. Lifting here I can get both wheels off the ground. I lift high enuf to get the rear jack stand in place, then position the front stand so that as I let the front down, it pivots on the rear stand until it comes to rest on the front as well.. and now I have stands front and rear. To lower just lift from the front subframe again.

The more commonly used method is to cut yourself a length of 2X4 to run from jack block to jack block and lay this up along the pinch weld and use your jack in the center to lift the entire side, then position your stands. Many jacks won't get you far enuf under to use my method.

 

The blocks do not compress, so you have no need to worry about that. I've put a block of wood under them depending on the jack, but it's not always necessary. I've also started using ramps for oil changes since I'm stuck with one jack and haven't been able to use jack stands.

 

Here's a blog that demonstrates the easiest way to get a MINI up off all fours.

http://www.blimeycabrio.com/?m=200704

Scroll down to the April 28 entry titled "How a stud lifts a MINI..."
I do it like that every time I rotate the tires, clean the undercarraige. Easy peasy.

Oh yea, floor stands can be had for a heck of a lot less than $100 a piece. Sears has them for abt. $30 a pair.

 

Flyn'n that's pretty good stuff!

 

What about doing it like this?

Use blocks for the cups (small wood rectangles) and still use the long board for lifting in the center. Then place the jack stands under the long board under the cups. I have some jack stands with flat tops that could work better than the ones that are meant to be used on seams. Just a thought...

I would slowly increase the height on each side of the car to prevent tipping.



If you want to use a floor jack on your R56 Mini and lift it from the front factory location you can fill the front stock jack point with a block of wood. I used 3/4 plywood. The filler block is small and you can put it in your tool kit in the trunk. Easy! The front jack point will lift both the front and rear wheels on one side of the car. Without the wood block the mount point will crush and fail at some point.

 

So that's how it's done! THANK YOU

I've been using the Mini car jack and the spare to rotate my tires. Jack up one corner, remove wheel and replace with spare. Move to correct rotation location for that tire and repeat, replacing the wheel you remove with the wheel that now goes there. Repeat three more times and you're done. It actually goes pretty fast and you don't need to purchase anything, but you have to have a model that came with a spare or an extra set of winter/summer/race tires setting around.

Works good for tire rotating, but not much else...

 

The trunk jack is scary to use and I would avoid using it as much as possible. If you use a floor jack and lift from the front mount (with the small block of wood in the cup) you can rotate front to back on the same side of the car. Both front and rear wheels will get off the ground from the one jack point. With directional tires (if you have them) front to back rotation is all you should do. If you want to extend the life of your tires you then move the tires (dismount them and turn them inside to the outside) to the other side of the car but have them roll the same direction. With our other cars that have staggered wheels we have to dismount the tires to rotate.

 

I repsectfully disagree with that comment. The factory jack is VERY stable and is designed to fit inside the plastic jack points. It will not slip back and forth or side to side. The trunk kit includes a tire chuck as well.

Of course, there is nothing wrong with using a low profile floor jack with a custom insert for the plastic if you have one, but you better have a "jack lock" on your jack. It is never recommended to work on a car sitting on a floor jack without a jack lock by itself. If not using a screw jack, it's best to jack up with a floor jack and install a jack stand. The problem is the floor jack ends up in the proper jack stand location. At least the method in the link posted gets you there with the jack stands in the right location.

Just my 2-cent safety tip...

For those like myself running "non-directional" tires (IE: Conti DWS) you can rotate the two fronts straight back to the same side rear and the rears forward to the oposite side to get the best trend life and prevent directional cupping.

 

The issues I have with the trunk kit jack are 1) the ground needs to be level and not have gravel on it (both under the jack or under the tires) to give you a good footing. If you are just removing one wheel at a time it is not so bad if you work smart and you only lift one wheel. 2) When both wheels are off the ground (the front mount will lift both front and rear wheels at the same time) the car can shift weight back to front and the jack can start to shift. 3) Adding jack stands can make it worse by transferring the weight between the points. 4) Torquing or seating the lugs bounces the car and can help walk the trunk kit jack out from under the car.

Before I purchased a Mini I witnessed two guys changing wheels (on a JCW) using the trunk kit jack. What a mess, I watched the car shift and I saw the jack shift out from under the Mini. The Mini was sitting on the front rotor and they asked me to help them get the car back in the air using my floor jack. The plastic cup looked like it was about to crack. Luckily Me and another friend had boards and floor jacks in our trailer so we got the JCW back up but it was a pain due to the lack of ground clearance now that the Mini was sitting on the rotor. My S did not come with a wheel chock BTW and the JCW was not using one.

Seeing that mess formed my assessment that the trunk kit jack is scary to use.

I change wheels more than most people. I have 3 (non MINI) race cars and you know, pit work requires good tools and skill to prevent problems. My race cars are in the air more days than they are on the ground. I have a lift and 5 floor jacks and a pile of trunk jacks. The MINI trunk jack is the last option. If you have never used it and you think you may need it roadside I recommend you practice using it at home but be careful.

 

A couple of comments: When jacking on one side, always chock the wheel diagonally opposite. I use the wood block method but use hardwood that won't tend to split. I purchased circular 4 inch diameter shallow outlet boxes from the electrical section of my favorite home improvement store and, using small wood screws, attached them to the faces of the boxes. One goes on the saddle of my floor jack, the other fits on top of the saddle of the jackstand crosswise so that, when lowered, the wood block goes up into the black plastic jacking point. Another jackstand with a polyurethane saddle cover goes under the forward frame member near the front jack pad. Then repeat for the other side.

 

For the front optional jack point. Is it the subframe or the subframe mounting plate.





I am talking about jack point 1 in the diagram.

 

yep

I lift at #1 and first the front wheel comes up and if you keep going, the rear. Continue to lift the rear until I get a small jackstand under the rear block - the wheel is barely off the ground but as I lower slowly to set the front block on a second jackstand the center of gravity shifts - the car pivots on the rear stand and the rear wheel comes UP as the front settles down.

When the car is firm on the stands both wheels are about 2 inches in the air

Been doing it this way for 10 years with no problems - safety first.... I never work with the car on a jack - I always use a stand or two (roadside emergency excepted)

 

Last Sunday I found this broken jack cup from a MINI on the ground. It is not from my car. You can see the cup snap tabs failed. You have to be careful not to damage the cup when jacking up your MINI.

 

Exactly! ever since blimey posted that, I've been using this method to lift my MINI. good stuff!