Hi everyone,

Workgin on my 2014 Mini r55 with N18 engine.

I have read several threads on this process, and just wanted to get some advice. I sprang a rapid coolant leak a several weeks ago, and was stranded away from home. I couldn't see where the coolant was leaking from, but it was at the back of the motor and likely the crossover or water pump. In the process, I went to check that the bleed screw on the thermostat was not open, and it was broken off. I then tried various ways of getting it out (heating screwdriver up, drilling, etc) and basically nothing worked so I ordered a new cross over and thermostat housing and the car has sat for 1.5 months waiting for me to get time to do this.

I went to pressurize the system and confirm the leak location, but the bleed screw was just oozing so I gave up and just went to remove the thermostat and cross over pipe yesterday.

I have removed the t-stat housing, disconnected the cross over from the t-stat housing with that f*n clip, and pulled the cross over out of the water pump. However, it seems like there are some wire harnesses or pipes connected to the cross over that won't let me remove it. I have not removed the intake manifold, as I've never done that and didn't want to disturb it if I didn't have to. I can't see what's connected to the crossover, and might be able push out connectors blind if that's all it is, but wondering what people recommend.

Should I remove the intake or anything else to facilitate removing/installing the cross over?
Is there anything else I should tackle while I have all this apart?

I did buy a metal thermostat housing and crossover pipe from ECS just to avoid having another plastic bleed screw break

Thanks in advance!

MJ

 

Can't comment on the water pipe, but that clip was the longest part of the t-stat replacement when I did mine earlier this month. What a pain.

 

Amen, but @njaremka posted that it doesn't need to go back on when you reinstall, which was good news. I was trying to figure out how not to have the loop face the engine next time. I ended up prying the end of the clip up towards the pasenger side/t-stat side and then grabbing it with side cutters to wrench it over and it released the pipe. I spent 20 minutes trying over other permutation with no luck.

 

I know that there are threads/procedures out there that say this job can be done with the intake manifold in place.....but I would never attempt it that way.. There's just no room in there, and you're working blind to boot.

There are wires that 'clip' on to the crossover pipe. They can be yanked off, but pretty difficult to replace on the new pipe with the manifold in there. As noted, you don't need to reinstall that clip on the thermo housing, it's irrelevant once assembled. Be sure to lube the o-ring going in to the water pump housing. It's a tight fit and if it rolls out of the groove in the pipe you'll still have a leak. I've had trouble with the pipes from various manufacturers (even reputable ones), with the diameter being off just enough that you can't get the pipe in to the pump housing with the o-ring on it. I can't speak for the fit/quality of the metal variant, but will say I've never seen anyone posting having issues with it.

 

FWIW, removing the intake manifold isn't very difficult and is something you should get accustomed to doing if you're planning to work on this car yourself. The major issue is the small bolt underneath that must be accessed from the right fender well. Outside of that, it's really pretty simple and should take no more than 30 minutes, even at snail speed.

 

Ok you convinced me, most of my experience with intakes and leaks is with older carbureted cars that were quite finicky to get the gaskets to seal well. I've done the turbo, downpipe, intercooler and suspension but haven't ventured into the engine itself. I did see a video with a long extension to get at the bolt with the right wheel removed. Thanks for the advice, I'll check back once I get it off.

thanks!

MJ

 

No problem, sir.

Yes, long extension and a wobble end is the easiest way to get at that bolt.

If you haven't had the intake off, be sure to have new gaskets on hand. They're rubber, not hard to source locally and not expensive.

 

Just wanted to report back that taking the intake off wasn't all that bad--the worst was disconnecting all the mess of wires that attach under it to various brackets. Having it out of the way helped tremendously and when I removed the cross over pipe I discovered the plastic flange had broken off, with itself and the rubber oring still inside the water pump. I put the new metal cross over on, put it all back together, and coolant is no longer gushing out of my car.

Thanks again for all the help!

MJ

intake removed

 

Nice!

 

Finding the bits would have been a chore with the intake still in place....glad this worked our for you!

 

For sure, reaching my finger in when I realized the end wasn't on the pipe was easy peasy.
I also replaced the valve cover at the same time as it had been on the list and I was basically there already.


timing guides

new metal valve cover from ECS

Back together

 

Looking dynamite

 

I had a question about the water pipe from ecs tuning. Does it fit completely flush to the water pump housing or is it offset in some areas? When I put it in the water pump housing without the other side in the therm housing it fits flush, but when you put the therm housing side in, you have to turn the pipe for the notch on the therm housing to fit the notch on the pipe which offsets the pipe on the water pump housing side. I put one in today but the way the pipe has to be placed in order to fit into the thermostat side as well, looks a little iffy to me, but maybe that's just how it is seated because it's aftermarket. Just don't want to put it all back together and have it leak again.

 

As I recall there was some "alignment" or orientation fun when I put it in, but you could tell when it was happy and oriented correctly. Since you can't see crap behind there it was a bit of feeling and aligning. I have had no issues or leaks, but I completely understand not wanting to do it again! It only fits one way, but sadly I couldn't really take a picture. My main issue was the broken plastic from the old pipe not letting me seal it well.