Good evening all.

I could really do with some help and direction please. I'm trying to get my partner's R56 (N14) back up and running as quickly as possible as she works in the community.

The car stalled whilst she was sitting in a queue on an exit slip road and, as it wouldn't restart, was moved off the live lane to somewhere safe by HATO. Attempts to jump start were unsuccessful and it was towed home. Earlier on Friday the ABS light lit briefly whilst driving but no other symptoms or issues were noticed. She has noticed that the brake pedal has been feeling 'heavy', particularly at slow speeds/manoeuvring, as if it had been pumped a few times.

Having charged the battery it seems to crank, but won't start. The check engine light is illuminated so the ECU is at least communicating and the RPM needle twitches while cranking so I believe this means the crank sensor is also functioning. The only fault codes relate to the FRM (a couple of bulbs out).

I have checked that the crankshaft position sensor is receiving a 12V supply and the hall effect appears to be working (checked by moving a spanner in front of it). The ground straps are all attached and in good shape, the ignition coils are all receiving 12V, fuse 10 is intact (15A) and power is present at terminal 1 of DME (connector X60004).

It doesn't sound as though the LPFP is priming on door open nor ignition on. Although fuse F43 (20A) is intact there is no voltage present at pump terminal on ignition on. There is continuity along blue/white wire from connector at the JBE to the fuel pump. The fuel pump appears to be working, as it could be heard working by providing 12V across its terminals.

A temporary bypass of the fuel pump relay, by providing 12V directly from F43 using a fused jumper wire, the fuel pump activated suggesting relay K96 is faulty. I followed a guide to bypass the faulty relay at the JBE but there is still no power at the pump terminal on ignition on. Does this mean it is not receiving its trigger from the DME? I have read that a safety feature is prevention of the DME sending a ground signal to PIN 8 following a crash (as the fuel pump doesn't get any power no fuel gets pumped). How can I test this? Could this have somehow been activated without being involved in an RTC? Assuming it is this, how do I fix the problem. Even when bypassed though, and the fuel pump activated, the car didn't start.

Assuming it is not the problem, or at least not the problem, what else could he preventing the car from starting? Where do I start first? I assume there is no point currently trying to check the fuel pressure at the rail, if the fuel pump isn't functioning? Similarly, no point in checking the HPFP at the minute? Could compression, or lack of, be involved? A vacuum leak? A timing fault? It simply a fault with the starter/solenoid?

Any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks

 

Im not very experienced in diagnosing but my first thought when you say stalling randomly is to troubleshoot the maf sensor. I've seen on forums that you can check spark plugs after cranking to see if they smell like fuel. You can also try engine starting fluid and if it starts up, then you know you might have a fuel issue. And if the car was being driven while leaning out like that could have some catastrophic damage if its boosted. Just got done putting a new engine in mine. if it was compression it wouldve been misfiring before stalling, but there are many ways to check for compression. You seem do have done lots of very smart things to troubleshoot so im sure this wont be of much use to you, wish i could help more.

 

Thanks for your suggestions Kemp but unfortunately we're a bit beyond them 😕.

Since posting, a scan with ISTA only identified an FRM fault (the couple of bulbs out that I already mentioned) and a JBE fault which wasn't present earlier so I'm guessing I've caused this while troubleshooting the fuel pump, so no pointers there.

However.......on removal of the vacuum pump it has seized and the part which connects with the exhaust cam has sheared in half 🤦🏻‍♂️.



After removing the rocker cover, the exhaust sprocket is still attached to the other end of the cam (the torx bolt connecting the two appears intact) and the chain and top chain rail (the slide rail?) also look unscathed. But I'm guessing there'll be bent valves at least, if not also pistons damage, if I were to take the head off.

The car is 17 years old and has done 150,100 miles so I'm thinking it probably doesn't make economical sense to go any further with it 😥.

 

Sad to see it but i cant blame you. Ive probably put more money and time into my car than i should have.

 

Yup, I know. For the past few years I've fixed/replaced what feels like half the car, most of the suspension components, HPFP, exhaust, thermostat housing (twice), oil filter, alternator, blah, blah. It makes you want to keep it going so as to not have wasted money but at what point do you stop?

 

Yikes, sorry to hear that. :( I know those can leak oil and the little oil hole can clog with carbon/sludge.