I already replaced the ignition switch, didn't fix the issue: No problem with cold start, then when parked and tried to restart within the next 1-3 hours, the following sequence of events unfold: 1. turning ignition and no crank. repeated turning leads to at some point a 'successful' engagement of the starter motor, but that is very short and not sufficient to start the engine. 2. check engine lights come on an OBD reader states: P1692. After clearing that code, the starter will crank immediately but the engine won't start despite long cranking. 3. the following further measures were taken: 3.1 access to the throttle control body, a slight push onto the throttle lid was enough to get the engine to sorta again on that occasion. Or it was just a coincident. 3.2 On a different occasion the warm engine wouldn't start. Remembering chats about loose connectors, this time instead of messing with the throttle body, I opened the battery housing and moved on all the connectors, including those connecting to the ECU... and the engine started without a problem, but now the check engine light was on. I drove home with the check engine light on, then read out the error code (P1692 again), cleared it... and then again the previous problem that the starter would run but the car wouldn't start. Further light rattling at the ECU cables or battery didn't make a change. I haven't tried yet to move the lid in the throttle body again but after finding no similar failure reports online, asking here if anyone understands what is most likely going on and how to fix it? I am better in using a screwdriver than a voltmeter so my diagnosis skills are a bit limited... and any help would be great! thx Currently the car is not starting, I will see tomorrow if it's start when its cold again, but believe it's now in this "I crank but won't let you start" mode... I also noticed that the DSC warning light is suddenly on, albeit I might have touched the switch without noticing it or perhaps the light always comes on when starting...

 

UPDATE: after letting it sit over night it didn't start nor even crank. It behaves now exactly as after the warm engine issue described earlier: when turning ignition I hear for a second the subtle noise of an electric motor or switch running, but no crank. upon a second or third try the starter would actually engage - but only for a split second. And when I try again after, no more starter engagement. -- Anyone has any idea what to look at next? Since this is a CVT, could the issue be related to the gear lever/sensor, thinking it's not in drive? Or is it more likely an immobiliser issue? Or could it be the throttle body? I am already on my third throttle body, those being a common issue, and this one was able to start the car after manually forcing movement on the lid, but after that I took it off an cleaned it an an ultrasonic cleaner... I could try swapping back to one of the other partly malfunctioning throttle body I have, but that would only make sense if this is the most likely cause of my issues... Anyone who reads this and went to similar issues please share your thoughts. Thank you!!

 

I rarely hear of throttle body problems, which makes me a bit suspicious. I was under the impression that forcing drive-by-wire throttle bodies open isn’t such a great idea. I’m also curious about the ultrasonic cleaning. I assume you suspended just the portion with the butterfly valve in the cleaner and didn’t dunk the whole thing, right?

 

I had a somewhat similar problem: no crank/no start. In my case, it turned out to be a poor connection at the EWS connector (though I also discovered Fuse 5 was blown, not sure it's linked). While the problem seem similar on the surface, I don't think that's the issue you have, though if you can, try to scan it with INPA / ISTA, which can show that sort of codes (your regular code scanner won't pick up the EWS code).

Just in case, when the issue reproduce, I'd pull the ignition switch connector and try to jump it (with the key in the barrel so the EWS doesn't prevent the car from running). It's going to be annoying to jump though, as you have to jump all 3 wires to 12V (instruments, run and crank signals) to rule out the new ignition switch being defective.