Well, I've got a spun bearing and need a new engine. I've reviewed Mod Mini's videos on Engine removal and clutch replacement (he truly is a god sent) and have a digital copy of the Bentley service manual on hand to reference. I've already got a new (used) engine on route to me. Along with the engine I will be replacing the Crankshaft seals (front and rear), intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, flywheel bolts, and spark plugs. I will also likely be replacing the axle seals and intake manifold nuts depending on condition. Since the clutch was replaced within the last year I will not be replacing that, but this also means I do not have the alignment tool. Does anyone know a reliable replacement for the alignment tool, I've seen some people say you don't need one, but I'd like to have something just to help reduce frustration on an already big job. Looking for ideas of what I should have on hand to be able to do this job as smoothly as possible. If you've got any pointers or recommendations on other parts/tools that would be good to have on hand or any pointers on how to make any tricky parts of this job easier I am all ears! Also open to opinions on other parts that should probably be replaced at the same time. Replacement engine has about 85,000 miles, chassis has closer to 60,000 miles.

 

do you mean this?
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part...ol/atgm06~ach/

Adding to the 'while you're in there' pile, depending on ambition and budget, many of these are covered on Mod MINI's channel. With motor, subframe and possibly transmission removed, a lot of this becomes suddenly much easier:

Engine:
Mounts
Gaskets and o-rings valve cover to pan
Fumoto oil drain plug
Metal / unbreakable dipstick
Supercharger oil service, possibly a full rebuild / replace, pulley if desired. In any event make sure the blower you install in the car is good.
Water pump
Belt tensioner, idler pulley, belt
OEM crank pulley replaced with ATI solid or SFI/PRW gel filled
Coolant hoses, including the tiny ones behind the motor. Some connectors can be upgraded to metal (aluminum or brass). Check the RealOEM coolant hose diagram for part numbers and back search them through the vendors
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=17_0237
Radiator, fan resistor, thermostat + housing (get an aluminum one)
Alternator (new if you can find one)

Transmission:
mount
gearbox oil service
shifter cables / ends if needed
limited slip differential, not cheap (especially a Qaife) but now's the time if you're thinking of getting one

Chassis:
lower control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and steering rack bushing (all poly-urethane); inner and outer ball joints, inner and outer tie rods, struts (bilstein A4s for stock replacement), strut mounts and power steering hoses and reservoir, CV and steering rack boots, wheel hubs (would switch to the post-7/2006 production M14 lug ones, you'll need a full set of new lugs of course but beefier and more readily available), any needed brake work and/or upgrades

Afterward consider DIY the alignment (toe adjustment) too. See the FCP Euro video on how to do it (on their website and YT channel) which is excellent.

Cabin filter, because everyone forgets about it.

On parts, would stick with OE/OEM quality (except the crank pulley; factory design is junk) from known / trusted vendors like here on the board, many offer lifetime replacement on long term wear items. Rock Auto, Jegs, and Summit also worth a look but watch the shipping which can add up fast. Would generally avoid Slamazon because of the low overseas quality and fitment issues often cited on this board and elsewhere.

Needless to say not a quick one weekend job; likely several and you'll need space and tools; Mod MINI is probably a good gauge of what's required in terms of both. Would line up help if you can find it, including a good independent shop in case you get in over your head with an issue, and try to avoid the Stealership entirely.

 

Agreed,If you are going to go thru the hassle of pulling the front crank pulley to replace th3 front seal, if you can swing it put an ATI on.

if you can’t, at least put a new facelift crank pulley on instead of reusing the PFL one.

if neither, don’t bother replacing the front seal, you can always do that one later. It’s just the rear one you can’t do without pulling the engine.

I read above you know it has a new clutch so when you break it down and are removing the PP to get flywheel off, iff the inner face moves around, the flywheel is toast. If not, scuff the surface and reuse


I would budget 3 weekends, or a full week being your first time doing an r53.


id also suggest pulling trans amd engine combo, with electrical harness still on it unlike mod mini video.

will be a LOT easier to transfer parts and harness over sitting side by side on garage floor than leaving harness in car amd trying to remember what branch and connector goes where.
Plus less entanglement to deal with.

 

When I installed a used long block, I replaced ALL the gaskets and seals except for the head gasket.

valve cover gasket
timing cover gasket, including oil pump seals
oil pan gasket
front and rear crank seals
crank sensor O-ring
cam sensor O-ring
oil filter housing gasket
oil cooler w/ seals (since you spun a rod bearing, I would recommend this)
water pump seals
thermostat with thermostat housing
ALL coolant hoses, plastic tees and expansion tank (get on OEM.com and get the part numbers to replace every little hose and tee in your cooling system)

Hopefully, it goes without saying: exhaust manifold gasket, intake gaskets (all of them from the throttle gasket to the intake manifold).

On the transmission, in addition to what others said, I also did:
transmission input shaft seal
shift fork bushings

I did not have or use a clutch disc alignment tool when I installed my clutch. I just centered it as best I could with my hands and slowly tightened down the pressure plate. That worked fine for me.

I recently replaced all my power steering lines too, so now, for the first time in a long time, I do not have any fluids dripping on my driveway!