This all started when my 2011 Cooper S Hardtop started having issues on startup. it would would sometime not start but start the second time, then it would "start" (low rpm running but no throttle response) and after a few seconds roar to life. that went on for a while with the time it took to fully turn over getting longer until it legitimately took 5+ minutes to full kick over. then one day it stopped starting entirely. before when it would still start it would run absolutely fine apart from sometimes under load at high speed/rpm some stuttering would happen. we've ruled out ignition coils and sparks, put in a new full set of injectors because they needed to be replaced anyway and still no start. when you try the starter goes and goes and occasionally one or two cylinders will misfire but it won't turn over. The only codes it throws are for cylinder and multiple misfires, no fuel related codes. and the way the fuel pump is it'll build up pressure of 1400psi+ but then just tank straight down to around 200psi

Original Cheap Pump.wmv

Fast forward to buying a new OEM high pressure fuel pump from ECS. the faulty pump was a cheap one that I got from China for like $300 that lasted me just under two years, so I sprung for an OEM original pump so I don't have to worry about replacing it for a long time.
First one that came was faulty and couldn't even build pressure past 1000 PSI, after which itd tank down to under 150psi. this was a pretty big shock to me because up until this point I don't think I've ever gotten a part that just straight up didn't work at all. also props to the ECS customer service team for taking great care of my problem with the pump.

ECS Pump 1.wmv

I've seen online that a way to test an n14/n18 high pressure fuel pump is to stick something very skinny or a depth measurer into a specific hole on the high pressure field pump where theses a diaphragm and it's should to be between 11MM and 15MM deep. my cheap pump from the start of this measured to 26mm, and the 1st the first pump from ECS measured somewhere close to that. the warranty replacement pump just came in the mail today and it measures in it 19 mill and I'm very worried this one too is faulty. I have a family friend who is a mechanic who's coming over this evening to help me with the install, so i will keep you all updated.

So my questions would be,
is is that method of testing HPFPs actually valid?
and if the new one's sitting at 19 mill does that mean it's also faulty And I will have to get a second warranty part from ECS

 

Hello,

Before they are installed and ran i get about ~23mm for n14 and early n18 on that valve. Later N18 have a different design altogether. .

People have sent us their failed units on their MINIs from the factory, we have ones that are 23mm 25mm and 27mm depth on the valve for for both n14, and early n18.

Also some people return them and say they were never installed, only we find out they were, because it was something else. Does the fuel pump from us smell like fuel? Also make sure you get a caliper to measure it so you can get a correct measurement.

Its hard to tell on the pumps or if its something else. You will get a cold hard start and its not going to be the main fuel pump either, main fuel pump should prime when you open the car or got to get in your car for the first time. Its a priming noise from the main fuel pump in the tank.

Check plugs, coil packs (like to fail), fuel line pressure, fuel line pressure sensor, Injectors ..etc

If its not that then it could be the pump.

 

There’s a few vids on YouTube for repairing these HPFP’s. They’re all good but go too far. The spec for the depth mic is 21mm or less. The problem I see is that since the pump is bolted to the head it overheats the oil inside and eventually cooks and thins out. Maybe this causes it to seep out though the seal or the actual diaphragm backs off since it’s glued to the housing. I used the YouTube vids as reference to disassemble the pump. I pulled everything off except the bellows cylinders and cleaned well. I re-glued the diaphragm into the housing with two part epoxy (jb weld) and reinserted with vice grips. I replaced the oil with gear oil. Note: need to fill cavities 1 at a time as you’re refilling and pump the diaphragm cavity to purge all air out then reinstall cylinders onto bellows and torque retaining nuts or tap with punch and hammer. Finally, need to slowly fill cap with swash plate and fully submerge cap and housing for reassembly to avoid air pocket in the pump. All whilst pulling diaphragm spring with an Allen wrench to achieve the less than 21 mm of depth. You will have to get creative with this. After bolting the supporting plate with cap whilst pump being submerged in oil, retest to assure the less than 21 mm of depth and voila, pump should be good for installation and car should run great. After my service, I got 11mm of depth. All you spent was about 20dlls for 2 quarts of oil instead of 1000 dlls on a new pump. I will do this service at about every 30-40k along with the intake valve cleaning service. Good luck to you all.

 

I've unfortunately had tons of experience at the "aftermarket" HPFP and they are junk. They hardly ever work from the get-go or only last a very short time. You have to go with OE HPFP. They are expensive, but you'll spend more in time and hassle dealing with those cheap knock-offs. I have used a couple of the "Assembled by ECS" branded HPFP and had great success. They are less $$ than the Mini branded model and I've been happy with the results. I have one on my personal 2008 MCS since late last year with no issues.

 

I have a brand new OE HPFP for an n14 for sale. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co.../market/364026