10,000 miles ago, I had a clutch job done by a shop. They replaced the OEM with a Valeo kit. Recently, the car has developed a whine whenever I push the clutch in: https://drive.google.com/file/d/13JD...ew?usp=sharing

The first few revs were with the clutch in and the last one was with it out. My gut instinct says throw out bearing, but they replaced it with the clutch. Could I have gotten a defective part? Also, if I downshift without giving it gas, it makes this groaning sound for a split second: https://drive.google.com/file/d/13K4...ew?usp=sharing
It's audible in the video when I go from sixth to fifth and fourth to third.

What do you guys think? I am not having any drivability issues, it's just the sounds. If you guys think this is something to be concerned about though, I do want to take it back to the shop before the warranty runs out.

 

If you have any warranty on the clutch job get the car back in and have the shop evaluate the noise.

A throw out bearing is no different than any other new part. It can fail at any time. Most of course don't fail early though. Still it is a possibility. But the shop will make the call.

 

Alright, taking it back Wednesday. Does it sound like the throw out bearing to you guys though or could it be something else?

 

Sorry, but those videos are terrible.

If you get a noise only when you push the clutch pedal down, my gut would tell me its the throw-out bearing. Best to let your mechanic hear the noise so he know what to look for when he goes in there.

 

Throw-out bearing makes the rattle and then when you push in the clutch it goes away. It will get worse with age. They might have not installed correctly and grease the tube or broke the ears on the tabs that it snap into.

You will get a little chatter doing the dual mass to single.


Let us know what they find.

 

Will do. I'm at the mechanic right now.

 

Okay, so the clutch was replaced but the dual mass flywheel never was. They agreed with me that it's likely the throwout bearing and they will warranty parts + labor.

Can the dual mass flywheel really be causing these sounds though? I'm really not hearing much chatter. They told me if they find the flywheel is bad, replacing it would cost me about $1k.

 

Factory dual mass does not chatter unless its really worn out and you always replace the clutch/pressure plate with a new dual mass flywheel. You don't just do the clutch side and no flywheel on a dual mass. They cannot be machined like a single mass and reused.

That's the problem.

 

I thought the DMF chattering was common for these cars? Mine has chattered very slightly ever since I bought it at 52k miles and hasn't gotten any louder since. At 137k now. The reason I didn't have them replace it when they did the clutch is because they said it looked fine.

I'm in college and money is tight right now, is it really necessary to replace that flywheel if they say its in good shape? If it is, I'll suck it up and have them do it though because I'd rather not have to deal with it later.

 

DMF to SMF conversion small chatter is common. Throw out bearing worn/broken on either system will also cause large chatter.

Old DMF with new clutch = high and low points face of DMF, bad engagement as it may skip and also chatter.

I would get that throw out bearing checked out and they should have replaced that dual mass with new on a new clutch. That will eliminate the other issues.

 

Okay I called again and they said they would warranty replacing the throw out bearing only if the clutch looked good and had no hot spots. Is this reasonable? I am pretty experienced with a manual, so I doubt this is the case but regardless, what does that have to do with the TOB?

Although this shop did have decent reviews I'm somewhat skeptical about the work they do as they seem to overcharge as well as told me I need a new water pump and control arm bushings when I did those 20k miles ago and have no leaks.

I'm just worried they'll make up something and get me to pay for the entire repair honestly.

 

Okay, I think I'm going to have them replace the flywheel while they are in there. Does $1k for JUST the flywheel part sound steep though? Not that I really have a choice since they won't be charging for labor but just wondering.

Tempted to just buy the part for them myself as I see the Luk ones for about $400, but then I won't be under their warranty.

 

Yes.

https://www.outmotoring.com/_search....categoryid=261
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=c&SVSVSI=4500
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,flywheel,5348
https://www.fcpeuro.com/Mini-parts/C...words=flywheel
https://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2006-...arch/flywheel/

 

The OEM dual mass flywheel is ~$1000
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...l/21207532057/

 

not everywhere

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/min...er-21207532057
(lifetime warranty included)

Also

https://www.outmotoring.com/dual-mass-flywheel.html

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...=c&SVSVSI=4500

OEM source LUK:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=5348&jsn=8

 

Chatter can arise when a clutch disc wears to the point disc rivets make contact with the flywheel or pressure plate.

A grabby clutch can arise if the flywheel or pressure plate friction surfaces get too hot. This causes hard spots to form and these have a different coefficient of friction.

Only an experienced tech can make the determination -- from being at the vehicle -- that a flywheel needs to be replaced. It can need replacement if hard spots have formed. Or it has suffered excessive wear. And a dual mass can have its cushioning fail. This can make for clunky take offs or possibly clunking shifts.