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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
My daughter in college started having some issues with her 2010 Mini Clubman Base. I took her another vehicle and brought the Mini home to troubleshoot. The odometer tripped 70k miles on the drive home. It seemed to drive fine until it heated up and would misfire at idle whenever I stopped. The car was getting P0300X random misfires and code P173B. It was also losing coolant, but none was leaking when parked.
Long story short I installed new spark plugs and a new fuel filter with no improvement. I also swapped ignition coils around and didn't find any that needed replaced. Next, I replaced the thermostat/housing and the water pipe between the thermostat housing and water pump. The pipe had a crack in it that I assumed is where the coolant was escaping from.
I also replaced the plastic crankshaft breather tube, as this came up when researching the issues the car was having. It was cracked, but I may have done that getting it out. I ended up removing the intake manifold and installing the 5/8" ID rubber heater hose that I read about in this forum.
I'm no longer getting misfires or P173B. The new issue is that the car overheats pretty quickly and is blowing cold air when running the heater. I've only taken it for very short test drives and monitor the temperature using bimmerlink.
Here are the new codes I'm getting using bimmerlink:
Error code: E72C. Description: CAN message position FH FAT. Symptom: Signal or value implausible.
Error code: A8AE. Description: Fog light left defective, PL3 from 07/14 and (SA5A1 or SA896): Brake light left defective.
I have been getting the A8AE code from the beginning. The fog and brake lights work. I just ignored this chasing down what I thought were bigger issues.
Anybody have any ideas what I'm looking at here?
I really appreciate any input. I have zero experience with Minis. I purchased a Haynes service manual, but it's pretty basic. Sounds like the Bentley manual is the way to go. I wish they offered a digital version online like Haynes.
Heater blowing cool air: I think I just wasn't getting a good air bleed at the thermostat. I read somewhere about removing the coolant fill cap and putting the system under vacuum for a few seconds at a time using a shop vac. That seemed to do the trick as the heater blows hot now.
Overheating: I use Bimmerlink to display the temp sensor and run a short route near my house. The temp definitely runs hot. It's winter here. Display is in celsius. when it gets to 100 I cut the heater on and bring it home. The temperature drops to the 80s when I cut on the heater. I'm really starting to lean towards the new thermostat I installed being a dud. I don't think there is a restriction. Seems to be circulating fine.
Other codes: I'm also becoming more convinced that the A8AE and E72C are coming from the foot control module that the dealer has to reprogram specific to your car. Getting different codes there today. This is probably solely on me as I forgot to disconnect the battery when I replaced the crossover water pipe. Screenshots below.
If anyone has some experience to share, it will be sincerely appreciated.
UPDATE:
Since I posted earlier today, I've gone back out and removed the new thermostat and reinstalled the original. It was a shot in the dark that the new one was a dud. Also, thinking that the original might be okay since I discovered the cracked water pipe. I'm getting the same results. In celsius, the car runs in the 85-105 range. When it gets over a hundred I turn the heater on full blast and the temperature quickly drops to the 90s.
Also still getting weird codes about fog lights, side lights, low beams, etc., but all of those are functioning as normal. Also, the driver's side window drops about 3/8" and stays there when I turn the car off and get out. Rolls up fine when I get back in, start the car and flip the raise window switch. I'm still leaning on needing to get the foot control module reprogrammed to clear these codes/issues. Is bimmercode or some other software/app capable of doing this DIY? I haven't studied up on any of that, but suspect it's best left to the pros.
Any ideas on my operating temp? Is it possible I had a bad thermostat and purchased a dud replacement? Could the water pump not be circulating correctly even though the heater works and the hoses are warm?
I forgot to mention that I did a combustion test on the coolant and it came out good. No sign of a bad head gasket.
Any suggestions will be gratefully received.
PS- I live in the boonies far from any BMW garages. I don't think I want to take it to someone who isn't familiar with working on these vehicles.
Tentatively feeling a little better. Returned the new, but faulty, thermostat and exchanged for another new one. After installing the new one all is good, so far. I've driven the car a lot the last two days and no high temps. These little cars truly are fun to drive. All of the electrical codes are cleared. I don't have to return the car to my daughter until she graduates in a couple of weeks. So, here's hoping nothing pops back up.
My daughter in college started having some issues with her 2010 Mini Clubman Base. I took her another vehicle and brought the Mini home to troubleshoot. The odometer tripped 70k miles on the drive home. It seemed to drive fine until it heated up and would misfire at idle whenever I stopped. The car was getting P0300X random misfires and code P173B. It was also losing coolant, but none was leaking when parked. By the way, if you need help with your studies, I recommend studyhippo. This service can help you save time. On this resource you can find examples of essays about choices or any other topic.
Long story short I installed new spark plugs and a new fuel filter with no improvement. I also swapped ignition coils around and didn't find any that needed replaced. Next, I replaced the thermostat/housing and the water pipe between the thermostat housing and water pump. The pipe had a crack in it that I assumed is where the coolant was escaping from.
I also replaced the plastic crankshaft breather tube, as this came up when researching the issues the car was having. It was cracked, but I may have done that getting it out. I ended up removing the intake manifold and installing the 5/8" ID rubber heater hose that I read about in this forum.
I'm no longer getting misfires or P173B. The new issue is that the car overheats pretty quickly and is blowing cold air when running the heater. I've only taken it for very short test drives and monitor the temperature using bimmerlink.
Here are the new codes I'm getting using bimmerlink:
Error code: E72C. Description: CAN message position FH FAT. Symptom: Signal or value implausible.
Error code: A8AE. Description: Fog light left defective, PL3 from 07/14 and (SA5A1 or SA896): Brake light left defective.
I have been getting the A8AE code from the beginning. The fog and brake lights work. I just ignored this chasing down what I thought were bigger issues.
Anybody have any ideas what I'm looking at here?
I really appreciate any input. I have zero experience with Minis. I purchased a Haynes service manual, but it's pretty basic. Sounds like the Bentley manual is the way to go. I wish they offered a digital version online like Haynes.
Thanks all, Bob
Thank you for topic!
Last edited by jermaine.guiterrez; Mar 28, 2023 at 01:23 AM.
