I used the cut off method to get the old bushing out, didn't nick the casing. New bushing seemed to be 100% identical all around. The videos I've seen of this method show mechanics using a simple all thread press and a hammer to install the bushing.
However I've had problems from the start. Ended up using a proper bushing press / c clamp device and an 800lb impact to get the bushing in all the way to flush with the rear. I welded up a spacer so the rear of the bushing can extend the 1/4" or so out the rear, but since about 1/8" from the rear the bushing has been damn near welded in place. In two work days of impacting, air hammering, torching, and sledge hammering we have gotten the bush flush with the rear, but no farther.
I'm about out ideas here. We cannot get this bushing through this damn case. At this point I'm willing to take the loss, drop the sub frame, and grab the bush + bracket, but I'm hoping I can get some ideas from here before wasting another day or two on this car.

Thanks,
Mark.

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I don't think I've ever seen anyone press in the stock bushings with the carriers on the car. I can't imagine doing that without a shop press. Poly bushings press in much more easily than the stock bushings.

 

I used this tool to press powerflex bushings in, might be helpful, I found I had to lever on the rod to keep the angle right.

 

If you are going going to push stock bushing back in. You will need to remove the housing an have them pressed on.
If you are using powerflex. It can be done with housing on car.
They do offer a press kit to reinstall stock bushing in to the housing. In this case do not go cheap on tool. The cheap ones floating around are made of crap metal an will pull out the threads of the adapter plates. I know from first hand use.

 

Please note that the bushing "housing" is tapered!

i used a 12ton workpress to push in the Powerflex Caster version in. But it can only be pressed in one way.