Hi All,
Figured this would be worth starting a new thread for. I've been making progress on my auction mini, and got it to start this morning. The issue is, its a little ghetto. I put the key in the ignition, turn it, then walk out and I tapped a wire that I had added to pin 8 on the engine bay barrel connector, and she runs.

So my question is, is my EWS bad? I'm getting no indication on INPA or ISTA saying that its having problems. Only other thought is it could be the ignition switch itself and its not even sending the start signal?

 

Check fuses 5, 6 and 24. They all power the EWS, if one is blown and the other isn't it might cause the EWS to function well enough not to trip an error code but not enough to engage the starter.
If that's ok, then check for 12V at pin 2 of the EWS while the ignition switch is in the start position and again at pin 8 of the ignition switch

 

5 6 24 all have good continuity. Wasn't able to check pin 2 of the EWS just because of its position but did have my steering clamshell off so was able to test the ignition and that gave me my 12. Guessing the EWS is just dying. Is there anything stopping me from tapping that ignition pin 8 directly to that EWS pin 1 (that output wire)?

 

From the schematics that is a viable option. It will bypass the the EWS and start like the previous generation of cars. An added bonus, you won't need a "chip" FOB to start you car. You could use just a cheap key blade duplicate.

 

Check pin 2 of the wire at the EWS, not the pin on the EWS module.
You could bypass the EWS but keep the blk/blu wire connecting it to the ignition switch.

 

So I double checked today, I just have had the wrong pin. Had no power coming out of the start on the ignition. Replaced the small ignition switch and she started right up! Thanks a ton guys!

 

You sir are a life-saver. After a no-crank, a tow to get back home and a few hours trying to understand things / pulling the panels / testing the ignition switch / trying to bypass the EWS, I saw your message, tested fuse 5 and 6 (I had already tested 24), and lo and behold, fuse F5 was blown.

It's a bit mind-boggling that this unrelated fuse being blown prevents the EWS from working, but I guess that's how it is.
Fun fact: in my case, bypassing the EWS for the crank (by putting a 30amp fuse in the EWS connector between pin 1 and 2) and cranking a bit made the EWS work again for the next few tries (for how long? I don't know, I'm not keen to experiment)

Now why was fuse F5 blown? I have no clue yet, I'll throw a new fuse at it and see investigate if it blows again.