Hate to make my first post an SOS, but here goes.
about 6-8 weeks ago my 2010 MCS hardtop (manual) 74k miles, developed a coolant leak, and a “friend” offered to fix it. He determined it was the thermostat/coolant pipe, and replaced both. Water pump was replaced by dealer < 12 months ago. When he finished job, he told me battery had died so he had to jump it, and it wouldn’t start. I gave him a new battery for it,but it would only turn over and not start! He suggested that I take it to mini dealer in Jax....which I did.
they said: need new alternator be it was fried and then they could scan car for codes!
Scanned car after 1279.00 alternator.....002BD2, 002BD4, 002E1C and 00A8AC and 00A8AD—— said I needed a newDME —2100.00
told them too much for a 2010 car and towed it home.
bought a used DME off eBay (exact same part number) and sent it to BIMMERecu solutions and had my DME cloned. Put it back in the car, and now there are no codes that remain, though car will turn over but not start. Fuel pressure on rail about 100 psi and goes to like 540 PSI with cranking. Was a running car prior to having coolant work done so I don’t suspect compression/timing chain issue. Suspect it’s a spark issue. All relays/fuses work. Replaced crank sensor by some said if when cranking rpm gauge doesn’t jump, then it’s a bad CPS. Still not starting. Gets 12v at each coil as I checked it.
Not sure what to do....any help appreciated, like from some mini tech person.
Wondering if I should part out this perfectly good hardtop car or just acquiesce and let dealer fix it?
Thank you if you read this far.
jonathan
p.s. I love a challenge but this is too hard!,

 

Did you have the CAS or EWS pair to the new (used) dme?
When you sent your New/used dme to the BIMMERECU did they take your CAS, and keys also? or did you send your old DME along with it.
I have learnt a pile of stuff recently while dealing with the mini engine and electronics... rule 1. never let it go dead, rule 2. never jumpstart it....
After spending 6 months researching this, (dead DME) issue that I have put myself into I have found that the ecu programmers need either your old DME (if not dead) or they need your CAS/EWS and keys to program across the security codes. This might be preventing you ECU from sending spark and/or fuel to your engine.

That would be the first question I would ask yourself, I find it hard to think that your timing has gone out or your compression if the car was running prior to the coolant being done.

Test for spark (pull the plugs one at a time ground it and get a friend to crank the car for a second see if you get spark, best done with lights off easyier to see spark... when you pull the next to test it, have a sniff, do you smell gas?

 

Did you have the CAS or EWS pair to the new (used) dme? The CAS and EWS were not paired, as my old DME, was cloned from original one. When I have rescanned the car with scanner, no codes are returned either with CAS (aside from A0B1 CAS input, selector-lever position, implausible.)

When you sent your New/used dme to the BIMMERECU did they take your CAS, and keys also? or did you send your old DME along with it. They only wanted my DME because codes were able to be pulled from it, so they indicated that it could be cloned, and upon f/u when I called Leo, he said the fact that there are no codes in DME interrogation after new DME is installed, shows that DME is working.

Test for spark- I tried to do this, and there is no SPARK, and I even bought a stupid test light, and it did not light with turning the engine over.
Fuel can be smelled. Fuel rail pressure noted on scanner was appropriate AFAIK.
JWT

 

first off never send it to the dealer because they will charge you for each part they throw at it even if it doesn't fix the issue. With that being said, sometimes you have to step back an not trust anyone but yourself. SO, double check your "friend's" work. check the plugs under the intake manifold specially the throttle body connector.

 

I will check the plug wires under intake and report back. That would be awesome to fix the issue if it were a simple plug/wire.
JWT

 

wires/plugs all connected. Rescanned all systems again and no significant codes:faults. However, no spark from ignition coils.....
how do you fix/troubleshoot this bc I’m fresh out of ideas.
jonathan

 

I bought a good used JBE but this did not resolve the issue. Still no spark and no start obviously!!
despite 12v power to coils.....there is no spark when plug pulled!
dme has no codes after cloning!
should I give up and take to dealer or just part it out?
seriously.....I can’t come up with anything!!
i asked the guy who cloned the dme, and he said lack of codes shows dme is working.....
please help
jwt

 

The ignition signal comes from the DME which is triggered by reading the crankshaft position sensor.

also, did you check the ground on the valve cover?

swap the 3rd black relay in the fuse box next to the ecu with one of two above it.

 

Replaced crank pos sensor...still no spark
ground on valve cover is solid.
will flip relays but doubtful...
any other thoughts why no spark?

 

Minitobe......thank you but tried flipping relays....no luck. All else ok.
im out of ideas.
maybe parting it out is a good idea or just pay the dealer $$ to fix it!
any other help??

 

It will be something stupid.
When you friend pulled the intake manifold off to change the Water Coolant pipe, he didn't connect all the wires back up. You have to disconnect a lot of things to remove the intake manifold. All the rest of the stuff maybe even including the battery, alternator, and DME where probably a waste of money. Your battery was dead because you cranked it till the end of time to try and get it started.

 

Hopefully!!
pulled intake off and appears all wire/connectors are attached.
not sure still why no spark! Still no codes on interrogation!
Frustrating as crap!!
jt

 

There was a guy up in NY I tried to help few years back when his car one morning would never start. It was driving fine the day before and just parked it. The next day, crank but no start! Long story short, he took it to the dealer and replaced the key fob! So if you have a second key, try that.

also, check the ECU pins for bends. One time, somehow, I bent a pin in one of the plugs and after pulling some hair, I found it lol.

also, another car I bought had the engine wiring harness faulty without codes.

check the ignition circuit wiring too. Newtis.info has good wiring diagrams.

 

Based upon your description. The guy who fixed the water system foo barred something....and that something is electrical. He never could get it to start after that even with the car jumped. So I give it a 90% chance that there was no spark wait back at the end of his work. When you retrace his work, you can't just look at it. You virtually have to repeat every single thing he did or could have done. That stupid water pump requires you to discount a lot of computer to get to it. They put the brain right next to the heart in the car for some reason. Everything has to be disconnected, inspected and reconnected. Bent pins, broken pins, pins that pulled out of the connector. You have a time consuming nightmare that takes amazing patience and attention to detail to figure it out.

 

Thank you guys for your input. I will sift through all mentioned above and report back.
thank u!!!

 

I have a 2009 R56 N12 automatic with at first a no crank, then a cranks but no start problem with the A0B1 DTC (CAS input, selector-lever position implausible). The prior owner gave up and sold this R56 effectively for parts after the local Mini dealership failed to fix it or either quoted too high a price. Since I bought the car from a third party that was going to scrap it as it has a salvage title I have a very incomplete story. What happened with yours finally? I was able to get my R56 to run and drive with improvised means and I am trying still trying to correct the A0B1 fault code.

 

You stated no spark. Chase the lack of spark back and find the last position you can confirm 12V. Check the green wire at the coils to make sure you have power. If not, go back to the fuse box, pull the fuse and check for 12V. If not, go back to the plug at the bottom of the foot module (passenger side).

Good youtube video to explain.

There's another video explaining the plug at the Footwell Module. Fast forward to 4:00 mark.