Good afternoon my fellow internet citizens. I think I'm in the wrong thread but here goes nothing. Despite searching for the last 20 mins I can't find a single instance of this here.

I'm getting a cylinder 2 misfire code and no roughness anywhere in the powerband.

I have a misfire counter and over each drive, I'll get a few counted towards each of the four cylinders but more in cylinder 2 than the others. Enough to set the light off.

The dealer I bought the car from said that they replaced the coils and plugs. I have swapped the coil but not the plug and it's set the light for cylinder 2 again.

Has this happened to anyone else? Any wise words for a new R60 owner?

I'm going to swap the plug out tonight to cylinder 3 and see if it follows but it's odd to me that each cylinder has a couple misfires here and there each driving cycle.

Again, I CANT feel it at all, so I'm hopefully catching the problem early.

Thanks

 

I don't think the misfire code is always reliable as far as multiple cylinder detection goes. My Mini and other cars would report cylinder X misfire but also multiple cylinder misfires although the final diagnosis and repair was for one cylinder only. So likely your issue is only with cylinder 2. I have had cars where I could not detect misfire so it can be subtle although often the idle will be slightly rough because rpm's are low. At high rpms a partial miss or weak cylinder might not noticeable.

Usual culprits are ignition, injector or low compression. Injector is easy to check for proper resistance. I actually had one car where the injector was only out of spec when it was hot, that took me over a year to isolate.

If it truly is a false code I suppose it could be the cam sensor - I have read the ECU uses the cam sensor to detect misfires. If a car has been overheated the hall effect sensors can go bad over time since they have been stressed.

 

Any wise words for a new R60 owner?

How about wise words from a former R60 owner? Go back to the selling dealer if possible and make them figure it out, if not get your money back if possible. Otherwise you are going down the rabbit hole of endless repairs.

And yes this belongs in https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ms-issues-357/

 

I've had a random P0300 show up on my MINI for over a year. I finally figured out what it is, although I've not fixed it yet. I've learned to drive around the condition. Mine is a faulty DMF. I literally went through everything else on the car and after coming up blank so many times, I started searching for non-standard solutions. Apparently a bad DMF will cause a misfire code because it will "bounce" between the springs at light throttle openings. The Crank position sensor will pickup the discrepancy in the crank rotation and the only thing it knows to do is throw a misfire code. A bad DMF will also cause idle issues that will be perceived as a rough idle. Be sure to check that out too if the other solutions don't work.

 

Awesome info, thank you. I've got the plugs swapped and no change so next thing I'll do is a compression test and report back.

As for trading it back in. Yea, I can hear that especially with the issue it's got out of nowhere. However, I'm a writer so I'm writing about the experience of not only finding the car but taking care of the car and utilizing a warranty I bought for it.

Thanks again for the info guys, I'll touch base once the compression numbers are back.

 

Ok. I've compression tested. All four cylinders were within a lb of one another.

Additionally, I've swapped out a brand new Bosch coil and laser NGK spark plug to no improvement in terms of cylinder two. I'm going to drive it a few more days and see if the light does indeed come back again.

All cylinders seem to register a misfire every driving cycle. 2 registers maybe 4 times more misfires than all the rest and cylinder 4 sometimes around twice as many as cylinders 1 & 3. Really odd considering I still don't feel a single thing wrong. Car runs strong to redline.