That’s an excellent suggestion!

 

I believe my 1/4" drive Craftsman torque wrench with lowest setting is 5-nm. Even then, can you imagine how light 0.6 nm has to be? Therefore when I do my dummy tensioning, I simply use the 1/4" craftsman at the lowest setting and drive that dummy tension first. Once It starts clicking ( believe it has to be like 7-nm or so, I stop, then just back out of that screw a turn or two (this ensures the torque applied isn't high at all). Practically speaking, that dummy tensioner's initial tension is just there to push the chain slightly so the timing chain cassette could set in place and all parts of the chain takes it's intended routing. After this I go and hand-tighten the TTY bolts to a somewhat loose extent (at this point, sprockets, crank gear can all still spin). I then tighten the dummy tension down before I drive the TTY bolts to the first spec. After that, remove dummy, put the real one in, and tighten the TTY with those 90 and 180 deg turns. After all that, I release the pins and alignment brackets, hand-crank a few rounds to make sure it returns to TDC without an issue. I check this quite thoroughly before putting on the valve cover. Hope this helps. I've probably gone over-board, but I've had experience with slippage before, and this job is best done correct from the get-go. So make your peace with whatever you want, there are simpler ways as other guys have mentioned, and they aren't bad at all. Make sure to use OEM TTY bolts, those bolts come in with certain tensile and yield strength in which the tightening is actually achieved when that bolt is stretched under the threshold of actual deformation.

 

OK then. I took EthanJLee96's suggestion and performed a leak down test. the results were:

Cyl 1: 70/10 (Input air @ 70 lbs/Leakdown (2nd gauge)@ 10 lbs)
Cyl 2: 70/25
Cyl 3: 70/12
Cyl 4: 70/12

In all cases the air came out through the valve cover and dipstick.

I'm still perplexed by the following:
1. I don't see how changing the timing chain could ruin the rings/cylinders?
2. If this was the condition beforehand, how is it that the car ran?!

Conclusions:
Unless I am doing the leak down test incorrectly, It seems like it is in need of an engine rebuild.

The nightmare grows!!

 

I find it very hard to believe that the work you've performed affected the cylinder rings. Did you drop some oil into the cylinders followed by a few puffs of compressed air? If so, did it improve your compression test at all?

Side note - when performing the compression test, did you remove the fuse to the fuel pump to prevent flooding the engine again? Also remember to press and hold the gas pedal down while it cranks.

The leak down values you listed sound impossible. It almost sounds like your second gauge shows percentage and not psi. If it's indeed percentage, the readings are pretty good (except for cylinder 2). If it's in psi, then you must be hearing A LOT of air escaping through the dipstick.

 

You gave me hope for a second. They are both identical pressure gauges.

I did did not do the oil/air suggestion as it seems to defeat the purpose of a leak down test. It does make sense for a compression test.

This while adventure makes no sense to me🤬

If I really knew what was going on I’d contemplate a rebuild. Been there, done that.

This car seems like it is from another dimension. Thinking about parting it out:(

 

I know the oil and compressed air suggesting sounds outlandish. But I would suggest that you do it and try and perform the compression test. Make sure the battery is charged and the spark plugs of the cylinders you aren't presently testing, are out (if not, the engine won't crank fast enough to produce a proper reading). If the compression test reads well, put the plugs back in and try starting the engine.

 

Actually, the fact that you didn't do the oil/air before performing your leakdown test is a strong indication that it's the oil rings that are causing your woes. It makes me believe that the oil/air craziness will solve your compression issue. If you have time, give it a try - it'll cost you nothing but some time.

 

I'm sure you already know this, but I forgot to mention that before doing a compression test, be sure to remove the fuse to the fuel pump (passenger fuse box) and keep the gas pedal floored while cranking. The battery should also be fully charged and the spark plugs of the other cylinders need to be removed so the engine can crank freely.

 

Been distracted and off topic for few days. I think I needed a break as well!

While I can't explain it, all signs point to a no compression situation as a result of piston, ring, bore or combo of issues. The telling blow was the leak down test where the air clearly came up through the dipstick tube- and nowhere else.

My options:

1. part it out
2. rebuild the engine
3. Buy a rebuilt (I will be posting another thread looking for anyone with experience with either AAA in SoCal (Full engine - $4k) or EngineGoFast in Philadelphia (short block - $2k).

This is my son's car - 2007 MCS with 70K and need it to get him to and from his last two years in College - 70 mile R/t per day. The rest of the car is in good shape.

That's the update for now

 

Unless you will be constantly caring for the car, I really don't think a high mileage MCS is a good choice for collegiate daily driver. If it were a relatively new MCS with plenty of warranty or really low mileage, then I'll rest my case.

 

Perhaps. But that train has left the station. He is living at home so I can care for it at least

 

It seems as though you're able to do a bulk part of major repairs. When that's the case, I would suggest you to rebuild the motor on your own. The cost you will incur in doing this will only be buying the necessary parts. And as you open that head up, you'll possibly find what went wrong.

For me it's always more preferable to do the labor on my own because I don't trust the mechanics out there, there are savings to do your own work (especially with the MCS), and lastly, every step of the way, I take the extra steps in cleaning up the block, checking fitment, and making sure everything is done correctly. You just can't get the details like with the mechanics out there.

 

thanks Yupetc - Here is my thinking.

1. Pull the engine and tranny since I have the front end almost off

2. Remove all vitals, including the head

3. Examine for obvious; post pictures for validation or diagnostic assistance if needed. At this point I will have to decide to either purchase a rebuilt or do a "minimum" rebuild myself.

4. If I rebuild, I am assuming that the rings were somewhat worn even before the current mess - particularly cylinder #1 (from prior compression tests) and that replacing the pistons and rings is needed. I am wondering whether, if I keep everything in its current position, can I re-use the crank and bearings (main, thrust and con-rod) as I am really trying to minimize outlay?

5. If the head needs work(which I am assuming will be the case) I will probably disassemble it and have the machine shop tank it, grind the valves(replacing as needed); replace the seals, guides if needed and assemble.

6. I will then reassemble - replacing the clutch while I am in their.

Is this plan reasonable?

 

Your plan does sound solid. All will depend on what you find when you pull the head off, though. Let's see what it looks like at that point first.

 

Scared to death by reading through this thread...just got a 2011 JCW Clubby at auction that won't start - wishing I could go back and not click the buy-it-now button!

 

OK - Head is off and I invite input from those with more experience reading the evidence than I:




CYLINDER 1

CYLINDER 2

CYLINDER 3


Cylinder 4


Full Block shot

Valves for Cylinders 3/4 - all open and close when cams are turned

Valves for Cylinders 1/2 - all open and close when cams are turned

 

I'm in the same boat as you. But I am the original owner from what was a program car. 30,000 was the mileage that I got it at. In fact where your at saying that it was cranking but not starting. Tipped me off. but with the head off. I see your valves did not collide with the pistons. The amount of residue on top of the pistons lets me know they did not change the oil 3 times a year. Probably 1 or 2 times. The oil dampener ring on the mini cooper is different then most it has a spring on it and the ring itself is different and requires it to be oiled.
When dry oil which is kind of what yours looks like gets on it. It sticks to the cylinder wall. And the two side of the groove that the oil ring sits in get stressed and tend to break. At that point I would pull the pistons and check the ring lands. In that tight cylinder you won't know until you pull them out.
If your car was not starting and there was no valve damage against the pistons your problem was not ring lands. It was high pressure fuel pump or anything attached to the engine that would create a no start condition. See that is the only plus side to a N14 As long as the head and the engine are together and the new tensioner is in place It's reliable.
No water in the cylinders. NOW that you took the head off your in for the same ride as everyone else in my opinion.
public knowledge aside of the book knowledge that I have found is That the exhaust cam timing looks to be at 91 degrees not 90 so a cheap timing kit may not solve the problem.
the crank bolt seems to be a size inbetween a 18 mm and it comparable American standard socket *(which is something to be noted when torquing down to 180 degrees due to a mild stripping of the new type of bolt). Its like using a 40 torque bit on the fuel rail and not a 45.
Though some say it may not matter be aware the tensioner bolt is like a lifter in the engine and does have priming functions on it; and in my opinion should probably be primed.
The timing guides they offer are not exactly the same as the ones in the N14.
The harmonic balancer for the n14 is chamfered on the O.D. where as the one they offer is not.

 

That's a lot to ponder upon now.

I don't see any clues from your pic that there should be any loss of compression anywhere. Now that your head is off, best way to check is to perform a leakdown test on the piston chamber and see if the rings still hold well. And also put the spark plug and injectors back on the head, flip it over and check leak down on the valves, could be a leak through the valve seat.

When I did this on my own car, I used Chem tool B-12 on the head valves for leak down test. On the piston chamber, I simply used engine oil. If these two will hold, all you got left on it is to clean up those carbon deposits and put the whole thing back together.

Do you have the oil pan out from under? If so, it'll be good to also check the rod connections. You can freely spin the crank and check movement, too. I don't believe you've threw a rod, but it's what you'll need to check before putting it all back together.

 

Ok - Now that I have my daughter's car running(clutch, control arms and bushings, etc) I will slowly start back on this one; slowly because I am a bit burned out on Mini mechanics

As Yuptec suggested, I put about 2 inches of oil in the cylinders and it was still there, with minimal if any loss, 3 days later.

Engine is pulled and on a stand. I am going to do a poor man's rebuild as this car does not have enough value to justify a $5k rebuild. a hone and new rings; clean up the cylinder head and lap the valves and see what happens....will post progress.

 

Did you ever get this started? I have an in 14 engine here where all I did was replace turbo and now I have crank no start. Everything is connected.