HELP!! Broken Rear Shock Mount Tower Bolt
HELP!! Broken Rear Shock Mount Tower Bolt
Hello all,
I have a major problem and REALLY need some ideas..... I noticed the dreaded "loose boards" rattling from the rear on my 2010 MCS, so I pulled off the wheel and got underneath and discovered one of the top shock/strut mounts bolts was completely sheared off leaving the bolt inside!!!!
Can I access this from the top, or do I have to get underneath to try and drill it out? Is it possible to drill a hole and use an extractor? If so, can anyone recommend good drill bits to make this happen???
Any other ideas??
Can I drive it short distances until I can fix it? The other side is still secure.
Appreciate any help...
Thanks!
I have a major problem and REALLY need some ideas..... I noticed the dreaded "loose boards" rattling from the rear on my 2010 MCS, so I pulled off the wheel and got underneath and discovered one of the top shock/strut mounts bolts was completely sheared off leaving the bolt inside!!!!
Can I access this from the top, or do I have to get underneath to try and drill it out? Is it possible to drill a hole and use an extractor? If so, can anyone recommend good drill bits to make this happen???
Any other ideas??
Can I drive it short distances until I can fix it? The other side is still secure.
Appreciate any help...
Thanks!
No access from the top. If you disconnect the swaybar end link and take out the second bolt on the top mount, you should be able to drop the hub/trailing arm/shock down far enough to see if there's enough of the bolt left to get a bolt remover on. If not, you'll have to drill it and try to get a screw extractor into it. PB Blaster and heat may be required. Check the torque spec when you re-install - the torque on those bolts is not high, it probably got over-tightened and that's what caused the break.
Thanks @squawSkiBum!
Yep ended up having to drill it out, unfortunately I couldn't get the extractor to move the remaining screw, and DID NOT want that thing snapping off inside... So I drilled it out and re-threaded the hole, it's not perfect but secure, and probably saved me $300-$400 in taking it to a mechanic.
And you're right on the torque specs, I looked at a couple of different sites where people were saying around 70ft lbs, thank God I didn't listen... Looked it up on Hanleys Online Repair manual, and 41ft lbs is the recommended spec.
All good for now, thanks again!
Yep ended up having to drill it out, unfortunately I couldn't get the extractor to move the remaining screw, and DID NOT want that thing snapping off inside... So I drilled it out and re-threaded the hole, it's not perfect but secure, and probably saved me $300-$400 in taking it to a mechanic.
And you're right on the torque specs, I looked at a couple of different sites where people were saying around 70ft lbs, thank God I didn't listen... Looked it up on Hanleys Online Repair manual, and 41ft lbs is the recommended spec.
All good for now, thanks again!
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Maaij
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Nov 30, 2005 01:31 PM







