2007 Mini Cooper s. Car ran great. Washed the engine when it was cold. Started running very bad CEL code 2D50 Super knock, 2D8C, 2D8E Knock Sensor, Electric. Tried blowing out the connectors and coils. Cars runs fine in limp mode but keeps throwing the codes even after reset. Even three hours later after washing.

 

Did you actually remove and clean out/dry off the knock sensor?

 

I cant find it. Im told it is on the right side looking at the car from the front under the intake manifold.

 

Yeah it's on the very back of the engine block, almost in the middle. Would probably be better to try and get at it from underneath. From the top you'd probably have to remove the intake manifold to even see it, and reach around under the fuel rail and water pipe. From underneath it would be above the bracket that the passenger side axle mounts to. It's part B6241 on this diagram.

https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/up...4055_knock.jpg

 

You might as well replace it. It's not an expensive part and having a code like like that, the ECU will cut out some part of the tune to safeguard the engine during drive. If you have access to a scanner, you may get by with clearing the code and see what happens after this reset, but if the code comes back again, then you need to replace it. Like Bombardier mentioned, it's behind the motor right below the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail. And Do look on Newtis (https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r56-cooper-s-hat/) and search for the correct installation procedure as there are certain orientation your sensor wireplug has to be clocked at. Though it hasn't been mentioned much nor being cared about by anyone, I read that the sensor wiring which transfers the knock readings can be affected by nearby electromagnetic fields. The starter motor is right next to it, for that matter, and there are other wire looms from the intake assembly, too. Mini's ECU has a noise filter which will deal with the foreign electromagnetic waves, but they want you to orient that sensor a certain alignment for that matter.

You can quite easily access the sensor from underneath the car. Depending on which space you access it, you may need to trial different combination of extension drives and adapters/swivel sockets to get it out. And when you put the new one in, be sure to torque it to 20-Nm. Do not deviate from that torque spec because the result readout will affect how the ECU determines if the sensor is giving the correct/wrong readings and it'll greatly affect your timing advancement and fuel trim. Hope this helps and happy motoring.