Stock Problems/Issues Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).

Won't idle upon starting until warmed up

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Old May 5, 2019 | 04:13 PM
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Won't idle upon starting until warmed up

So I have a 2009 Clubman, non-turbo and after having spent $2,000 on diagnosis and attempted repairs, still having an issue. When you start the car up after being turned off, you have to rev the engine to around 2,000 rpms or more for a couple seconds before it will idle and not stall itself out and I ha e to repeat this process every time I start it regardless of how long it has sat. It currently has 130,000 miles. I have replaced all the solenoids, (VANOS, camshaft position, etc) as well as replaced spark plugs and wires. The local Mini mechanic has no idea what's wrong with it and neither does the local Mini dealer. The next recommendation was to replace the ECU and if that doesn't work, replacing the motor. Anyone have any insight before I drop another $5,000+ in this thing? Once warmed up, it runs like a brand new car.....well with the exception of burning a quart of oil per week. Thanks for any advice, tips, pointers, etc
 

Last edited by Richard Lee; May 5, 2019 at 04:15 PM. Reason: Adding info
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Old May 6, 2019 | 06:13 AM
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burning that much oil with that many miles leads me to believe the valve seals are toasted.

not being able to hold a steady idle could be due to a vacuum leak and/or gas tank vent solenoid.

what is the back story that led to this issue?

where you located?
 
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Old May 6, 2019 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
burning that much oil with that many miles leads me to believe the valve seals are toasted.

not being able to hold a steady idle could be due to a vacuum leak and/or gas tank vent solenoid.

what is the back story that led to this issue?

where you located?
It will hold an idle once it warms up but you have to rev it up above 2,000 rpms for about 5 seconds and then it idles just fine. But then let's say you drive down the street and stop, shut the car off and immediately try to start it again, you have to rev it up again otherwise it stalls itself out. It's SO weird. There is no back story, just one day started doing it. I'm in Tacoma, WA and NW Mini is the dealer that has no clue what's wrong with it.
 

Last edited by Richard Lee; May 6, 2019 at 08:30 AM. Reason: Misspelled word
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Old May 6, 2019 | 06:06 PM
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Mine did something very similar that I couldn't figure out. Then the battery died and needed replacing. Once I put the new battery in it never had the stumbling issue. I'm wondering, how old is your battery? Oh, I almost forgot. The battery that was in the car was an OEM version, but very low on CCA. I replaced with a Duralast Gold of close to 200 more CCA. Not saying it will solve your issue, but it fixed mine.
 
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Old May 13, 2019 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by smschriefer
Mine did something very similar that I couldn't figure out. Then the battery died and needed replacing. Once I put the new battery in it never had the stumbling issue. I'm wondering, how old is your battery? Oh, I almost forgot. The battery that was in the car was an OEM version, but very low on CCA. I replaced with a Duralast Gold of close to 200 more CCA. Not saying it will solve your issue, but it fixed mine.
The battery is fairly old but the car always starts, it just requires you to rev it up, even if you've just got done driving the car for an hour, shut it off, then immediately try to start it, you have to rev it over 2,000 rpms for about 5-10 seconds before it will idle on its own. I guess I could try the battery but CCA refers to cold starts right?
 
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Old May 13, 2019 | 11:25 PM
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I suggest before throwing any more money at it to have a compression test and oil pressure test done. Your engine may actually be on it's last legs and worn out.
 
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Old May 14, 2019 | 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Scudder44
I suggest before throwing any more money at it to have a compression test and oil pressure test done. Your engine may actually be on it's last legs and worn out.
Ironically, that was part of what was done with the last heap of money shoveled at the car. LOL. Compression test and oil pressure test both came back excellent. The sad part of these cars are so fun to drive but SOOOO expensive to maintain. Someone mentioned that a Honda K20 motor almost directly bolts in with very minor modifications. I'm almost leaning toward that option. Any thoughts?
 
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Old May 14, 2019 | 06:14 AM
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Have all the fuel trim adaptations erased. Or try leaving the battery disconnected over night. Sometimes the computer gets messed up and this is the result. I had the exact thing happen to a dodge ram, spent pile of money and was told I needed a new computer. I disconnected the battery overnight and it reset the computer. I dont know if the minis will reset like that so you may need the dealer to do a reset. Good luck
 
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Old May 19, 2019 | 10:51 AM
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Hi,
I am new here, have owned a 2009 S Clubman since 2011. Mine had this exact problem and I recently (in March 2019) took it to a new mechanic, since I relocated in February. After four days of testing and investigation, the discovery was a malfunctioning purge valve. Replaced it, and engine light was finally off and did not come back on! Power is restored to full, no more idling issue upon starting the car. Seems that the malfunctioning purge valve was causing the computer to decrease available output and throw emissions codes. Also, I was burning through oil faster than ever imagined! The car ran great after this repair.

Sadly, my mini is now declared a "total loss" due to fire damage. I am buying another on Monday, May 20th 2019, same model and year, just now a manual transmission and JCW!
 
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