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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
Have you try to use W40 before prying the old cover assembly and installing the new one? If the sitting around these covers become so filthy with leak debris with time, they should not be that hard to come off....... or even a heat gun to pop them out.
Maybe - I don't really want to use a heat gun around that plastic valve cover. Membrane cover is simple to remove; the integrated plastic clips are just difficult to manipulate without breaking. Next time (if there is a next time) I will make a little removal tool - a very thin strip of sturdy flat metal with a slight hook on the end to push the retaining clips free of their latches. I found even the smallest screwdriver is too large and too straight to fit in between the membrane and valve covers and has no angle to move the clips.
The above is obvious upon even a casual inspection, but me being me - "ah, hell - I can pop that with a little screwdriver and be done in 10 minutes!" Not. Live and learn.
Have you try to use W40 before prying the old cover assembly and installing the new one? If the sitting around these covers become so filthy with leak debris with time, they should not be that hard to come off....... or even a heat gun to pop them out.
It’s mostly because of their location. I had to use a variety of picks and miniature pry bars that look like small bent screwdrivers in order to release them all without any breaking. Combine that with the fact that the composite plastic gets brittle after time and heat, and it’s really easy to break one. But still a lot cheaper than a new valve cover.
So I ordered and received one of those overseas diaphragms. It seems to be decent enough quality, but I went in and opened up the cover and the stock one was totally 100% fine.
Any other thing that may cause oil residue at all the hoses. I have oil residue where the valve cover hose connects to the intake and even where the rear left manifold tube is.... I dont know what gives?
There are other check valves and things in the valve cover for the PCV system. It may be that you will have to bite the butter and fork out the $ for a whole new valve cover.
There are other check valves and things in the valve cover for the PCV system. It may be that you will have to bite the butter and fork out the $ for a whole new valve cover.
Oh... Yuck. Probably right. I guess Ill keep an eye on it and decide when to get the fork out.
edit: fork me...that is a pricey bit. Wonder if I can seafoam the demons out or something lol
Ya'll, I know it hurts real bad to pay $300+ for a new valve cover plus the installation, but don't cheap out on the PCV system. These POS French motors have enough problems without adding too much pressure inside the motor to cause more issues.
Example: The PCV pipe was squished/collapsed on my car. I don't know why or how this happened. Age? Did I smush it accidentally? My new n14 motor have mad vacuum? Anyway, this caused enough pressure to build up in the crankcase for motor oil to be pushed out of the blind plugs in the bottom of the motor. No joke.
Ya'll, I know it hurts real bad to pay $300+ for a new valve cover plus the installation, but don't cheap out on the PCV system. These POS French motors have enough problems without adding too much pressure inside the motor to cause more issues.
Example: The PCV pipe was squished/collapsed on my car. I don't know why or how this happened. Age? Did I smush it accidentally? My new n14 motor have mad vacuum? Anyway, this caused enough pressure to build up in the crankcase for motor oil to be pushed out of the blind plugs in the bottom of the motor. No joke.
Wow that is crazy! If it’s not just a bad separator diaphragm, then it’s costly to replace the entire valve cover, but much cheaper than a new engine or any other damage that may result from a plugged PCV system!
Thanks for the additional information!
Wow that is crazy! If it’s not just a bad separator diaphragm, then it’s costly to replace the entire valve cover, but much cheaper than a new engine or any other damage that may result from a plugged PCV system!
Thanks for the additional information!
Well that's the strange part about the absurd PCV system in the N14 motor. Its integrated into the cover so it's unclear to me if more than one valve exists. Most japanese engines Ive worked on, turbos included, have one simple $20 valve. Why these French fools had to twist themselves into a knot designing this PCV system is beyond me.
Oil consumption, pressure on the piston rings, seals on the turbo...not worth the risk for $300+ as much as it hurts. Some idiots on Youtube plug the PCV system. That's NUTS. Look at my motor pushing oil through the blind plugs on the crankcase with just a partial occlusion of the PCV tube.
The only good new is that its a relatively easy job which you can do yourself with a few tools. And the stakes arent that high. You're not gonna blow the motor if the valve cover starts leaking after you install. You'll just need to get another gasket and some more RTV sealant.
So I ordered and received one of those overseas diaphragms. It seems to be decent enough quality, but I went in and opened up the cover and the stock one was totally 100% fine.
Any other thing that may cause oil residue at all the hoses. I have oil residue where the valve cover hose connects to the intake and even where the rear left manifold tube is.... I dont know what gives?
Well that's the strange part about the absurd PCV system in the N14 motor. Its integrated into the cover so it's unclear to me if more than one valve exists. Most japanese engines Ive worked on, turbos included, have one simple $20 valve. Why these French fools had to twist themselves into a knot designing this PCV system is beyond me.
Oil consumption, pressure on the piston rings, seals on the turbo...not worth the risk for $300+ as much as it hurts. Some idiots on Youtube plug the PCV system. That's NUTS. Look at my motor pushing oil through the blind plugs on the crankcase with just a partial occlusion of the PCV tube.
The only good new is that its a relatively easy job which you can do yourself with a few tools. And the stakes arent that high. You're not gonna blow the motor if the valve cover starts leaking after you install. You'll just need to get another gasket and some more RTV sealant.
It would be nice if someone came up with an alternative PCV system to route around the internal valve cover one.... but I’m sure it’s not really feasible. At least ECS has some in now that are a bit less expensive than OEM. But still inordinately costly for a part that needs replaced periodically. Some more aftermarket options would be ok too!
Im not sure how it all works in there, I haven’t dissected one yet, but there are at least 2 one-way valves in there as well as the separator diaphragm. I saw where on guy took his off and soaked it in a parts cleaning tank, and seemed to have cleaned it all out. But I do not know how it worked out in the end. I should try to find it again.
Who knows, maybe in my second life that I’m back in school for will help. Maybe I’ll be the one engineer something else! Ha ha, don’t wait though, it’s gonna be a couple of years. But I have several ideas for things on these cars.
Unfortunately one of the other internal valves or something has probably failed or is plugged up or something. I’m willing to bet that you probably need to replace the whole cover, sorry. It’s pricey, but better than a new motor! ECS has a OEM and a OES option now for the N18. The oes is less expensive but seems perfectly good to use.
Where did you introduce the seafoam? Did you just run it through the gas tank?
No I took the tiny hard plastic tube off that runs over the intake tube. I forget what exactly that thing is called that it connects to....just to the right of the intake manifold there. Sucked it right up. Did 1/2 can. Let it sit 10-20 mins before restarting as well.
No I took the tiny hard plastic tube off that runs over the intake tube. I forget what exactly that thing is called that it connects to....just to the right of the intake manifold there. Sucked it right up. Did 1/2 can. Let it sit 10-20 mins before restarting as well.
That's the vacuum tube for the brake booster. That tube does not go into the intake....
So you are saying this one portion of the vacuum system doesnt happen to connect to the rest or something? I find that hard to believe.
That hard pipe only goes between the vacuum pump and the brake booster. There is another pipe that goes to the vacuum tank, which then connects to the turbo waste gate. None of those tubes go to the intake manifold.
That hard pipe only goes between the vacuum pump and the brake booster. There is another pipe that goes to the vacuum tank, which then connects to the turbo waste gate. None of those tubes go to the intake manifold.
Live and learn.
