I have been searching for the best way to remove the transmission and wanted to know if it would be easier to remove the transmission from the bottom or to take out the engine and transmission together from the top? Any good links to how to do it as well would be a great help

 

Manual or Automatic?

 

Took mine out from the side/bottom. You really need a workshop manual for the job, Haynes or Bentley otherwise you will never get there. The steps involved are too, too many to list. The compact design has you removing a ton of stuff, subfame with steering rack, drive shafts, fuel lines, ECU, front of car in service mode, etc... time consuming but not rocket science. IF you do it, mark everything with tape/labels and take pictures so you know where everything goes for reassembly. Haynes idea of reassembly is to state 'reassembly is a reversal of removal' - helpful NOT.

 

It is an automatic. I just picked up a low mileage used tranny to pop back in afterwards Thanks for the tips as I have been studying the Haynes manual and watching the few videos on-line to get a good perspective. I will also be changing out the front oil seal and possibly the water pump, that is why I was wondering if it was just as easy to take the whole engine out. I guess I will have better access to that part of the engine since I will have to take some of the front end out.

 

Did the same thing. Purchased a 08 S with a bad trans.

 

I like how you supported the engine . Was the transmission out when you took this picture?

 

Key piece to support engine. Yes trans was out everything was tucked behind the car. You say you have a Haynes manual? Did mine with a Bentley


Manual

 

Yes I have a Hayne's manual as I am now contemplating getting a Bently? Which is better? So it's looks like you did not have to mess with the Radiator and hoses, which is great! Were you still able to get to all the top bolts on the tranny, pretty easily?

 

I like Bentley. Yes but undo the shifter linkage first. Gives more room

 

I'm getting ready to do this as well. thanks for your input. Does the front bumper have to come off? I'm guessing if so, the front cross brace is welded to the subframe which all have to be lowered? that why the bumper is off ?

Stephen

 

Doesn't have to. But sense this was my first one the Bentley manual said to put it full service mode. Made getting the side bolts and wire connectors on the front side of trans easier to get to.

 

You probably don't need the Bentley or the Haynes ... use this website ...newtis.info. Bentley pulls their information from this resource. I just used newtis.info for removing and installing the cylinder head (bad head gasket).

ECS Tuning sells the engine support for $285. That's a bit much, but still a lot cheaper than having the dealer remove your transmission. You'll also need a Foxwell NT510 scanner (or suitable substitute) to reset the steering angle sensor and clear codes when you are finished.

I did not have to put the car in the "service" position, and I didn't have any problems. The Bentley service manual doesn't list the "service" position as a requirement for transmission removal, and it lacks some key instructions.

1. Prior to disconnecting the steering linkage pinch bolt, make sure your wheels are straight. Use some painter's tape to secure the steering wheel to the dash; it will spin very easily when disconnected. The zero degree position (straight ahead) of the steering rack and the zero degree position of the SZL module must be maintained. Otherwise, you'll get all sorts of faults when you put it back together.
2. You only need to disconnect the two outer electrical connectors on the steering rack. Bentley tells you to disconnect all three; the two smaller ones are identical and easy to mix up.

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive transmission jack that worked well.

 

Looks like I am still working at this thing. Can someone tell me how to "un-hook" the exhaust system from the remaing "2" straps near the front as pictured?

 

Also, I have been going over the "subframe" being lowered and I am trying to figure out what the haynes manual is telling about un-hooking the steering pinion shaft, but I am not s

eeing it?

 

The pinch bolt on my gen 2 is in the driver's footwell behnd the pedals. Spray the exhaust pins with penetrating oil and then lever them out with a flat head screw driver, they are stiff! As said above, try to hold that steering column in place coz if it turns, and it will, your steering angle will be out when you reconnect the joint.

 

Awesome!

 

Thanks again for your help on the exhaust pins and the Steering location. I have already tied off the steering wheel so it will not move out of position. I will be going to harbor freight to pick up that jack as well. The book mentions to "replace" the wheel nuts and the nuts for the ball joints / Steering knuckle. Do I really need to? Anything else I need to replace along the way or inspect?

 

No to wheel nuts, no need for that. Yes indeed for any ball joint nuts, these are self locking and only use once and since your life depends on them being torqued and locked, yes again.
Replace your tranny end crank shaft seal too, even if it looks healthy it will leak in future. Not sure if an auto has a flywheel, imagine it does, the seal is behind that and again, replace the flywheel bolts, they are stretch and also need some thread lock dabbed on them.
You'll have perfect access to your thermostat housing while the box is out and if it has not been changed recently then get that job done now, you'll be able to access that awful clip on the rear pipe that nobody can get to!
Most of the parts required are off the shelf so should not slow down the job getting them delivered. I use Realoem dot com for part numbers.
If you are dropping the subframe anyway, get the anti roll bar bushes changed out and even condsider using powerflex bushings on the lower rear control arm (those are the large bushes in the housings at the rear of the control arm) these take a lot of pressure to remove from the housing so I would take them somewhere with a bench press. The Powerflex simply push in ( but make sure you have them the correct way round _ I know from experience that this is a great idea, doh) The improvement from the hydrobushes will surprise you.
Replace the drive shaft seals before putting the shafts back, preventative maintenance I would call that.
At the end of the job, get your front wheels aligned, you will have disturbed the settings with all the bolt changes. Remember to set the front wheels straight ahead before reconnecting that pesky steering column joint.
PS - I reused the steering knuckle bolt, it isn't going anywhere in a hurry!

 

Thanks again Scudder44 for your words of wisdom as I have started the list of parts to get with the correct OEM part number designation courtesy of the web site mentioned. Can you just get the Ball joint nuts separate? Dealer only? Also, did you replace the C-clip on the left hand drive shaft as noted?

 

I bought all the nuts seperate from EBAY usinG BMW codes and sizes (M14 x 1,5 etc). I imagine the prices were fairly similar to a dealer as none of them were cheap. The shaft circlip was perfectly fine to re-use. They may mean if fitting a new shaft use a new C clip but mine was and is fine.

Final words of experience. If you change the thermostat housing, get new hose clips, I used Jubilee clips. The old ones just would not seat properly and I had tiny leaks. The hoses were still in good condition, just moulded where the old clips were for 9 years and I suspect the old clips were 'tired'

 

Thanks again for your help I will locate some of the clamps before this weekend. Dis you replace the water pipe as well, since it is a pain to get to normally? Did you get a low mileage used tranny? I am just wondering how to "flush" it while out of the car or wait till it's in? Do I drain the torque converter and replace it with the same amount taken out as well?

 

Water Pipe is really easy with the trans out. Except I took an antifreeze shower when the pipe popped out

 

I did not feel the need to replace the pipe, treat it gently, I do not see why it would break during normal running as it is well secured and does not vibrate, I spent my money replacing the water pump whilst I had access and the engine was tipped down to facilitate gear box removal instead even though it was not leaking. I was removing my manual box to replace the clutch and know nothing about autos/torque converter. Not sure flushing is necessary, I would change the trany filter and refill with new fluid when back in the car. Others will chip in am sure :-)

 

FYI you don't have to take the bumper off, or put the car in service mode, or even drain the coolant to pull the trans. We do these all the time and that is a bunch of extra work and mess to do. We simply remove the subframe then support the engine and take the trans out the bottom. Much easier than a Gen 1 MINI.
While you have the subframe out though we always recommend upgrading the front control arm bushings to the powerflex so you don't have to pull it again.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...7-r58-r59.html

Harbor freight also has a very affordable top engine support, or you can just put the engine on a jack stand. Will save from buying expensive tools.

 

Finally got the tranny out last night, yay!!! I still need to get the axle out as it is pretty stuck. Looks like the best way is with the pry bar and lot's of lubricant. I will be gentle on the water pipe when replacing the thermostat housing and water pump. In terms of the used tranny going in, I am replacing the drive seals and contemplating the torque converter seal as well? I will be replacing the filter and gasket, of course I know there are topics on "type" of transmission fluid out there as I have been using Valvoline Max Life Synthetic as it meets the JWS-3309 spec. Has anyone else have success with this stuff? Is there another type of fluid (that is still economical)?