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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
I'm in a little bit of a pickle here on a couple things with my 2012 R56 MCS. First and probably the most worrisome is a reoccurring check engine light. I ran the code and it said it was a thermostat issue (possibly stuck open) however the car is not showing signs of a broken thermostat (overheating, eating coolant, ect.). The car is actually running just as it always has, fine but with its quirks. Also the car is slightly modified just an injen intake and its straight piped from the cat back (not sure if either of those thing might throw a code, not sure why they would). Wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what it was. My other issue is with a broken washer nozzle angle. The angle portion of the right hand side washer nozzle snapped inside the hose and I need to replace it. I've been looking for a replacement but all the ones I find are for a 2006 R53 and say it won't fit my car but it looks exactly the same. If anyone knows where to find a replacement (besides the dealer) or if the R53 piece will fit please let me know!
) you are probably getting a check engine light because the closed loop control function is not working properly. In other words, the computer is sending a signal to open the thermostat, but it doesn't see a drop in coolant temperature within the specified time. The reason you car hasn't overheated is that the normal function of the thermostat (it opens when hot water hits it too) is still working.
For your washer nozzle, put the last 7 of your VIN in the search block at realoem.com, and look under vehicle electrical system/windshield washer system. Here's the part number for my '07. 61662756194
mkov608
I am fighting a po128 which is what I believe you described in the post above. I have change the thermostat house 5 times in the last 300 miles so I am sure it is not the thermostat hanging open. I am gonna check the wiring to the thermostat heater and the CTS. If it is a computer problem, what would be my corse of action them. I am at my wits end with this car, and get ready to buy something else and move on from this thing!
Hey Jeff; you have changed the thermostat 5 times? What brand of thermostat are you using? Same brand/same vendor all 5 times? If so, I'd suspect a bad lot of thermostats. The other thing it could be is the water temp sensor; if the sensor is sending a false signal to the DME, that could cause the DME to set a DTC. Do you have a scan tool? If you have a Foxwell NT510, you call pull up coolant temperature in real time and monitor the system. This will help you determine it the problem is electrical or mechanical. I just installed a Scan Gauge II in my MINI so I can keep an eye on coolant temp. Scan Gauge II w/ Craven Speed mount; Garmin Dezl w/back up camera on a Kuda USA mount.
Last edited by mkov608; Sep 11, 2018 at 08:05 AM.
Reason: format error
Here's what it looks like from the driver's perspective. Gauge is configurable, upper left engine oil temp, upper right voltage, lower right coolant temp, lower left horsepower. 2011 and newer MINIs have additional engine parameters to choose from.
Thanks for the quick response.
The first three where from Napa Auto Parts. The last 2 have been oem bmw. I do have a scanner that has real time data streaming and the car is getting up to operating temp.
I hope to be able to work on it this weekend and see if I can find and evident wiring troubles.
Define operating temp. The book says 221 deg F. I did have one of those OEM electrical connectors fall apart on me (exhaust VANOS solenoid). I found the connector at ECS tuning and the special tools to remove the pins on Amazon. For sure, check the electrical connector on the water temperature sensor.
Since the R56 thermostat is controlled by the engine computer, (see this link to understand how it works ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruHGm4iSC_A) you are probably getting a check engine light because the closed loop control function is not working properly. In other words, the computer is sending a signal to open the thermostat, but it doesn't see a drop in coolant temperature within the specified time. The reason you car hasn't overheated is that the normal function of the thermostat (it opens when hot water hits it too) is still working.
For your washer nozzle, put the last 7 of your VIN in the search block at realoem.com, and look under vehicle electrical system/windshield washer system. Here's the part number for my '07. 61662756194
Thanks so much for your response! That sounds like what it could be although when I ran the code (one of the few times it turned on then back off again) it threw a code (can't remember what exactly it was) and it said basically that the thermostat is stuck open. What would you make of this?