Need some help here....again.
Thanks in advance.
2013 base model Mini non turbo - 99K miles - N16 engine
A week or so I replaced the muffler to quiet her down, but she has run great since then. I went to start her yesterday and it barely turned over. Since the battery was 6 years old, I went out and bought a new battery today and installed it. The engine turned over faster, but still a no start. it tries really hard, but not quite enough to get her running. Then I noticed the yellow engine light staying on and an exclamation sign in the center display.
I pulled the codes after seeing the solid yellow engine light. I got:
P15B8
P15B9
P15C8
P15C9
P1063.
I understand the P1063 limp home code, but I don't know the other codes. I didn't get a code for a misfire. I thought that was odd.
I also checked for spark and got a strong spark on #3 and #4, a mild spark on #1 and hardly any on #2. I switched the coil packs on 1 and 2 , and got a bit more spark. So I know I should replace all 4 coil packs for sure.
The plugs are carbon coated and wet. The plugs are only 10K miles old but the coils are original. I'm assuming the fuel pump is working OK.
I checked all the fuses in the fuse box and all are OK. I checked battery cables for secure connections. The positive cable is not the IBS type, it has one crimped connection and one bolt on terminal and all are clean.
what else should I look for?
I don't want to keep replacing parts till I find the problem.

Thanks

Bill

 

update...
Just replaced 3 of the coils but still no start.
I tried spraying a bit of starting fluid down each plug hole and starting, but it made no difference. I checked the fuel pump fuse (#46) and it was good.

I do remember that it ran very rough for a few seconds the last 2 times it started. No backfiring or popping.

The only code I get now is the P1063 since I cleared the others.
suggestions? Should I buy a better scan tool to get the MINI codes? What reader will do the job?

thanks

Bill

 

Out of curiosity, can you remove the valve cover to check the chain and guides.

 

I can do that this week. Since it wasn't backfiring or popping I was thinking the timing wasn't off. But at almost 100K miles the timing chain is overdue being changed.
I'm so much more comfortable working on the old cars than the new ones. But I'm learning.

I'll check my Bentley book on the proper procedure.

thanks

Bill

 

Some times cars don't give an obvious hint to fix it, but since you spent a good amount of time trying, it would be good to go back to basics to ensure at least the mechanical part is where it should be. After that you would be more comfortable checking each circuit for connectivity and function

 

Removed the valve cover and thought I'd see a loose chain or worn guide. But the chain is tight and from what I can see, the guide doesn't look too bad.
How does everything look to you?
I can see the stamped ink marks on each camshaft. See photos.

thanks

Bill

 

Could you take more pix of the intake camshaft where thr lopes meet the intermediate shaft.

Also, can you verify the timing? Rotate the cramshaft by hand and place something like a screw driver where the locking hole is (next to the muffler).

Lastly, check all the plugs to the camshafts position sensors and crankshaft position sensor in the bottom of the engine where it meets the tranz.

I'll check these codes tomorrow for you.

 

More photos attached of the camshafts and chain.
I put the valve cover back on and did a compression check. Got 100 - 105 lbs. in all 4 cylinders.
I've got a good spark on all plugs. Engine turns over a bit slow, but there is spark.
I've got fuel in the injection distribution tube (pressed schrader valve) and the plugs are damp, checked relay too - so I'm getting fuel.
I checked fuses earlier and made sure all the connections in engine compartment are tight and secure.

I haven't raised the car off the ground yet so I haven't been able to check lower connections or rotate crankshaft. Hope to do that this week. I know that everything is turning because the cams are in a different location then before I did the compression check.
If it were the timing chain, wouldn't the chain show a bit of slack? or more wear on the guides?

Thanks
Bill

 

 

I am having the same problem - no start, but I assumed mine was due to the current weather when it wouldn't turn over (been sitting outside in -25C to -37C for three days). Boosting hasn't helped and neither has letting it thaw overnight in a heated garage, even with a boost and a trickle charger on the battery. Did you determine the cause of your issue?

I'm showing codes P15B8, P15B9, P15C9, and P15C8. It's a 2012 Mini Countryman.

 

 

Thanks, I'll give it a try!!

 

did changing the alternator remove the codes?

 

Yes, that solved the problem.
I cleared the codes and they did not return.

Good Luck

Bill

 

[QUOTE=wmsue;4555801]Yes, that solved the problem.
I cleared the codes and they did not return.

Good Luck

Could you please tell me what you did to solve those codes I got the same ones and my car wouldn’t start.

 

[QUOTE=Ryanh;4608140]
Hi Ryan,

I had two different problems.
The first problem was the frozen alternator stopping the engine from turning. When I turned the key, nothing happened.
After I replaced the alternator and cleared the codes, all was good.
I removed the serpentine belt and attempted to turn the alternator by hand. It turned fairly easily in one direction but was totally frozen the other direction.

Good Luck
Bill

 

[QUOTE=wmsue;4608161]Thanks 🙏🙏. I will be replacing the alternator and see how it goes. This is only happened to the mini when the freezing temperatures started and the car was parked outside.

 

could you please update on how did you resolve the issue?