Hey guys,
My wife insisted we get an auto when we moved to south FL. Now, as I expected, we're having tranny issues. The car has always hard shifted, especially when driven hard. Now, it developed this thing where it will over-rev like to 5-6k rpm. I'm not sure what happens then, as I just took my foot off the gas and shifted into manual mode. But my wife said she didn't think she was going to make it as it "would not go". Seems like a solenoid is failing, and I believe it's from 3nd to 4rd gears. I drove it in Manual, and it seems better in that mode, but still happens.

I know I need to change the tranny fluid in it, despite the fact that it's supposed to "lifetime". But what does this problem allude to? Do I need to change a solenoid, or would this be a sticking valve? I've rebuild manual trannies before, but never opened an auto. Is anything replaceable without having to drop the trans or take it apart?

Any input in appreciated.

 

You can always flush the ATF and see if it helps. A.T. have a valve body that controls the shifting. As you said it could be a sticking valve.
Here is some literature to help. Navigate the site for more info.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...ission/4JnYJ1n

 

Just got a code P0734 code. Apparently, you get that when it has trouble going into 4th gear. I will definitely change the fluid, but while I have the pan down, I wonder what I can remove and inspect, or maybe clean.
I'm pretty sure I know what a valve assembly looks like, and is internal. But on Hondas, I know the solenoids can be removed externally on some models. Can this be done on the Mini Aisin trans?

 

I don't think you can remove the solenoids without taking is out. First try flushing and replacing the filter.

 

I think just changing the fluid would help the hard shifting in all gears, but this problem has gone too far for a fix that simple. If I'll be dropping the pan, I'm going to take the valve body off and at least inspect it. I'd hate to waste all that expensive specialty fluid and time.

 

Turns out there is quite a bit of information out there on these transmissions. I found that it's shared among quite a few different makes and models, including a lot of VWs. The tranny code is GA6F21WA or 09G or TF60SN. The Mini partnumber is 7609181and it runs about $7k at my local dealer. The Valve Body, which is my prime suspect, is part number 7603648, and runs about $2700. Obviously, I wasn't going to spend more money on a part than I did on the whole car, so here we go.

Once I learned it was an 09G, I realized that youtube was just flush with details on how to take them apart, fix, upgrade and assemble them. There was also a lot of detail on how to rebuild the valve bodies, especially the solenoids, which I'm guessing is my problem.

For about $75, I ordered a rebuild kit, which includes some drill bits and caps for the solenoids. It requires you to grind off the back cap of the solenoid, clean out the bushings and reassemble. Sounds like just what needs to be done, as the solenoids magnetically attract a ton of metal particles, forming a sludge. Once the car warms up, it starts to bind the solenoid armature from traveling properly, resulting in bad shifting.

Parts will be here next week, I'll let you know how it goes

 

might be of some use if any...

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...need-help.html

 

Here's some info on valve body adjustments for installs and wear:

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...n-fwd-6-speeds

 

So here's an update: watched some videos about this transmission, which turns out to be an 09G. Bought a TransGo solenoid kit to freshen up the solenoids. Turned out that I have the "small can" soleniods and the kit doens't work on them. I did however split the valve body and drill out the holes it suggests to drill out, and replace one of the valves inside. Assembled the valve body, installed new ATF filter and fluid and went for a drive. The problem was worse than before. Didn't go into 4th 5th or 6th AT ALL. So then I stumbled across an article that says that the K2 clutch sleeve can rotate, cutting off fluid to that clutch and make you lose 4, 5 and 6 gears. I thought that was my issue. Went and got a 70k mi old tranny and swapped it in. For about 100 miles, it ran great. Perfect, in fact. Then, with DSC off, I lost traction on a wet road and burned some rubber. Low and behold, my stupid 3-4 gear flare came back.

I am now of the opinion that I simply needed to reset my transmission shift adaptations. For whatever reason, there is too large a gap in the shift between 3rd and 4th gear. I can't believe that two different transmissions with two different valve bodies would have the exact same issue. The car that my new tranny came from had engine issues. I pulled it myself, and personally noted the damage to the head. It otherwise looked very well maintained, and the fluid was still a cherry red, unlike the dark brown that came out of my old tranny.

Question for my hardcore Mini guys out there: what is an inexpensive way to reset these damn adaptations? I bought a $400 Foxwell OBD tool, and it's just a glorified code reader. I need something like the VAG COM for the VWs, but I don't want to pay $3k for it. Any hints?

 

August Update: still wrangling with the issue. Turned out that when I replaced my solenoids, I either left a keeper pin out, or otherwise didn't secure it, because one of the valve stems was lying at the bottom of the AT oil pan. I found this out after I had bought a transmission with only 70K miles on it. I installed the fresh(er) tranny in the car, and put new filter and fluid in it, and it ran great. No shift flares. That all lasted for about 100mi, when I was pulling away at a stop light. The ground was wet and I revved it a bit too hard. The tires broke traction and it did a little burn out. After that, the 3-4 shift flare came back just like before. I mean 100% identical.

Flares REALLY bad in D when you're accelerating. If you're babying it, it won't flare bad, but if you're trying to pull away from people at a light, it will rev it up and SLAM into 4th. Makes me cringe every time. If you shift with the steering paddles, it doesn't seem to flare bad at all, unless again, you're stomping the gas while shifting. Leaving it in D and pressing the Sport mode button makes it almost go away entirely.

I took it to a tranny shop, and they hooked up their fancy SnapOn tablet, and checked for codes (none). They also reset the adaptations, no change. Another tranny shop told me that it feels like a valve body issue, but is perplexed that it's the same issue on a totally different transmission.

Anyone else with an R55 or R56 have shift problems just between 3-4 gears?

 

I am also experiencing the same issues as IDoSeaDoo. I recently got a 2007 MC base a little over a month ago with 122K miles. The transmission shifted great through all gears using D, DS and manual mode. There was no flares and no indication of slippage in any of the gears. About 3 weeks into it, I began noticing a slight "flare" occurring when it shifted from 3rd to 4th. I would compensate the shift by letting off the gas a little to allow it to shift into 4th. After 4th gear...5th and 6th were still fine. I started to only use DS mode as I was able to "feel" it go into 4th and better control it. I then proceeded to do my first fluid change (3 quarts came poring out right away as there was no overflow pipe installed). Of course the fluid was brown and appeared to be burnt? (the smell was about the same as the new stuff?). I checked for any metallic particles and found none. Slightly after this, I noticed that the shifting became worse from 3rd to 4th, as it appeared to be "slipping" more and going to higher Revs. Now, after a second fluid swap (getting close to flushing out the old), it is not even going into 4th. The engine light kicked on, which finally gave me a code of P0734 (Gear 4 incorrect Ratio) and of course, it landed in safe mode M4 or M3. I have been researching all the threads and video's out there to try and determine if it is the following:

1. Solenoid issue
2. Electrical related to the Solenoids
3. Valve body
4. and of course, the K2 clutch pack
5. ???

I am at a crossroads right now and don't know if sending it in to have a diagnostic is going to tell me anything without dropping the pan?

Any help on this would be greatly appreciative as I am going cross-eyed trying to figure this out, and of course want to limit the amount of money going into fixing as I have no problem going to pick and pull to get another low mileage and swapping it myself.

 

Oh man, I thought I posted my resolution to this horrible issue. After I put in the new trans and the issue came back, I found a great article on the Sonnax website https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...n-fwd-6-speeds that states that the valve body may need adjustment if there is still a shift flare with a new VB. I adjusted mine the full 2 1/4 turns on the K2 adjuster. The adjuster sort of looks like a torx bolt head, but you can put an allen key into it and turn it. It sort of clicks inside its retainer. Be careful to count how much you're turning it.

There is a very SLIGHT chance that your shift flare problem is form a rotated K2 clutch sleeve, located deep in the heart of the transmission. You'd have to take it all apart to verify, but I've heard of people making this diagnosis, tearing into the tranny only to find that the K2 sleeve was ok. It's much more likely to be your valve body. I bet you could tune this issue out like I did by adjusting it. I dropped the pan and adjusted the K2 valve on the valve body with it still on the car. Follow the instructions at the sonnax website: https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...n-fwd-6-speeds
You can revert the changes if it makes it worse.

I now hate Aisin Warner transmissions and am very sorry that it's the brand of tranny in my Ram truck. I wish I could have gotten a manual gearbox, but they simply don't make them :( :( :( My wife is looking for a new car and we've decided to go hybrid just to avoid anything with a f*cking valve body.

 

Thank you for the advise and quick response back Sorry you had to go through all the tranny changes to come down to the valve body. Just to go over your original symptoms...were you having issues going from 3rd to 4th, with 4th gear not even engaging? Basically, you put your foot into it and it would just rev up with no feeling of the gear engaging? Even by manually switching gears and trying to by-pass 4th to go to 5th?
I just got back from discussing these same symptoms to a mechanic that has been working with mini's for years and his knee-jerk reaction is that the damage is already done to the tranny and would recommend a re-manufactured unit This is even before taking it in to diagnose the thing and read the TCM unit I am just getting the notion that he has had trouble in the past with these units and does not want to chance a re-build.

Also, did you end up taking it in to have a diagnostic done?

I have not opened the pan up as I wonder if the re-adjustment you noted above would help?

 

Well, it started while I was away in another country. My wife was having these issues. By the time I got back, it had devolved to a severe flare from 3-4, followed by a cringing bump into gear. The RPMs would shoot way up and SLAM the car violently into gear. Sometimes, even the tires would chirp. That same week we experienced it going completely into N. I had to put the car into tiptronic mode and manually switch the gear. Horrible! So after I replaced the tranny, the problem went away, until I lost traction on some wet pavement. Then it came right back like nothing happened.

I did take it to two shops, the first put a snapon tool and checked for codes with a snap-on tool. Nothing. They reset the adaptations, but the problem remained. I took it to another shop where a guy actually drove it. He also thought it was the VB.

If you need a remanufactured unit, they're only going to remanufacture the transmission, not the VB. Those, they usually purchase from a special VB remanufacturer. You can buy it yourself and install it. The hardest part is dropping that damn pan. Removing the VB is pretty simple, just make sure you keep the wiring exactly as it was. It's easy to mess up. Also, be very careful removing those connectors, they're easy to break. Maybe watch some videos on 09G transmission disassembly to see how to remove them properly. The 09g is the same exact trans, but used in VWs. Or you can try adjusting it like I did. The car is bareable to drive, but doesn't shift like I'd want it to. It's not smooth like I feel it should be. This issue has made me hate the car. It's a shame, as I just replaced all suspension components and it's actually fun to drive again (sans the trans issue). Looking to offload it and get a hybrid.

 

did you end up fixing it with the valve adjustments i m curious thanks

 

Well, sort of. I went on the Sonax web site and got some good insight there. They make remanufactured valve bodies and valve body parts. There, I learned that those allen-heads on the side of the VB are actually valve adjusters https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...n-fwd-6-speeds I turned the K2 valve adjuster all the way out (I believe it was 2.5 turns) and that made the problem much less apparent. It was still there, but not evident during normal driving. Only when you smash the pedal and hold it there through all the gears would it flare a little between 3-4. These POS valve bodies just need to be sent off and rebuilt every 70k miles. I have since got rid of the car and vowed to NEVER own an automatic transmission again. They really are the absolute WORST technology on a car, guaranteed to fail and not at all fun to drive. If you drive a mini, grow a pair and get the manual!

 

Just a quick update on the same related issue I had...I ended up getting a 40,000 mile used transmission and rolled the diced. I tackled the installation myself and learned a lot along the way

 

I rolled the dice and got a 77k mi tranny out of a car with an obviously blown engine. My 3rd gear flare came back in less than 100mi.... I went through the hell of dropping the sub frame and hoisting the thing up in there, and it still failed. Hence my bitterness towards this (and all) automatic transmissions. I called it, even before my wife bought the car, I said "the tranny WILL go out". Sure enough....

 

Ok i need help i have a 2007 s automatic it started with the rpms going to 4000 changing frim 3rd to 4th putting it in Turbo helped but now it's to the point that it wouldn't change out of 3rd gear up or down we did a transmission flush new filter gasket and now changing from 3rd to 4th is not as bad as it was but it's like there is no 5th or 6th Gear what do I need to do I do not want to have to put a new transmission as the car is not worth it any advice

 

Could be worn transmission valve body.

 

if you re paying someone for the work you should replace a unit in the transmission as has been mentioned...unit is called a valve body they run around $600 -700 US plus labour...that is the most common problem however you should find the right transmission shop(they should have experience with VWs and MINIs). the companies that provide remanufactured valve bodies do not fix vehicles. there are several companies that provide remanufactured valve bodies only a experience transmission shop that has fixed minis transmission problems would know which ones work best. Mini does not sell new valve bodies, they only recommend one solution replace with new. I wouldn't install used because eventually you will end up with the same problem when you hit the same mileage. cheers hope that helps

 

So I have same problem with 2009 Mini CooperS slipping between 3 and 4 gears too, or flaring as you call it.
My co-work has same problem too. It seems this trannys have issues after 90K miles or so depending on how hard you run it.

Anyone found way to fit it without spending $4K for new one.

 

I have the exact same problem, except mine started abruptly out of nowhere after I replace a failed turbo oil feed line (2009 R55 Clubman S). I'm curious as to why it would suddenly start on the first drive into work after that repair when it had no issues before. The car does have 120K on it, so not surprising, but curious. Restored oil pressure have something to do with it?

Anyway, I got the tranny service kit from ECS Tuning, and will be tackling at least the oil/filter/gaskets today to see if that helps. Will update here on how it goes.

 

Taoble,
I'm having the same issue. took it to Mini of Wesley Chapel and they said the TCU/TCM was the issue. That the part would cost me $1100 just for the box!!!!! So, not really wanting to pay that I looked online an bought one used. Changed it out still the same issue but the car ran a little differently. They said it may need to be programmed at a dealership.

 

Usually if the issue is not in the clutch packs, it would be in the valve body which pretty much controls the shifting. One time I bought a used transmission and it failed after few months. When I took the VB apart, some check valves (*****) where stuck. I didn't follow though with the repair because it was more time saving to swap the tranny again. There are some U tube vids explaining that and even a whole thread here that discusses this. look up 09G transmission. here is a sample