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Lost Power to Low Pressure Fuel Pump.

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  #26  
Old 05-03-2019, 04:54 AM
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Great....now you can right click on the modules you do not want to program. An action list will come up. Click on the second tap where it shows the action list like program, code, replace, amd initiate. At the botom, there is "hide action or process", click that. Now the module will be removed from the action list.
Post pictures when you get to that point to confirm.
 
  #27  
Old 05-03-2019, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
Great....now you can right click on the modules you do not want to program. An action list will come up. Click on the second tap where it shows the action list like program, code, replace, amd initiate. At the botom, there is "hide action or process", click that. Now the module will be removed from the action list.
Post pictures when you get to that point to confirm.
That was quick.

Ok, i will check it out and let you know.

Come to think of it, if i only select the JBE to be recode, will it reocde with latest version and the rest will be outdated version? Is that how it works? or it will recode only JBE to the old version as per the rest of the system. I am sorry for my ignorance as never done this before.

Many thanks.
 
  #28  
Old 05-03-2019, 05:51 AM
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it will code it to the current system of the car. coding isnt date driven. the programming is, however. It is better to program and code the JBE.

The system, as a whole, will look for updates and prompt you with an action plan as seen in the modules tree.

Remember, once you start the process, you can disturb the car like opening or closing doors. you cannot start or turn off the car. So, make sure the batter is strong or connected to a booster. the JBE will take at least 15 minutes or so. it is time consuming, so keep that in mind.

the other alternative is using Winfkp and NCS.
 
  #29  
Old 05-03-2019, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
it will code it to the current system of the car. coding isnt date driven. the programming is, however. It is better to program and code the JBE.

The system, as a whole, will look for updates and prompt you with an action plan as seen in the modules tree.

Remember, once you start the process, you can disturb the car like opening or closing doors. you cannot start or turn off the car. So, make sure the batter is strong or connected to a booster. the JBE will take at least 15 minutes or so. it is time consuming, so keep that in mind.

the other alternative is using Winfkp and NCS.
Final question before i proceed with the coding. Do you recommended to code just JBE or update the rest as well.

As for the battery supply, I have CTEK MXS 7 with supply feature which i can use when programming with ISTAP, thanks for the reminder.

Your help is much appreciated, many thanks.
 
  #30  
Old 05-03-2019, 08:52 AM
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for now, just PROGRAM and CODE the JBE. you can always do the other modules later. One thing for sure, stay away from programming or coding anything on the MOST ring.
 
  #31  
Old 05-03-2019, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
for now, just PROGRAM and CODE the JBE. you can always do the other modules later. One thing for sure, stay away from programming or coding anything on the MOST ring.
Great, i will just program and code the JBE for now.

you reckon using ICOM be better to handle anything on the MOST ring? I may try to get one, for now i will have to settle with usb K+DCAN cable.

Once again thanks.
 
  #32  
Old 05-03-2019, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by edwkmho
Great, i will just program and code the JBE for now.

you reckon using ICOM be better to handle anything on the MOST ring? I may try to get one, for now i will have to settle with usb K+DCAN cable.

Once again thanks.
ICOM is definitely the best and faster, from what i know. back in the day, i mistakenly trusted ISTAP to program my car. at the time, i wasnt running on expert mode, so i couldnt pick and choose and no one seemed to share in that regard. Long story short, i accepted the action plan and once it came to my head unit, it took close to 6hr to move 20%. i decided to abort the action and as a result, my head unit got shot. also my CAS died and i almost lost my mind lol...result of that, i bought another head unit and lost navigation and took me few weeks to figure out how to resurrect my CAS.
 
  #33  
Old 05-03-2019, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
ICOM is definitely the best and faster, from what i know. back in the day, i mistakenly trusted ISTAP to program my car. at the time, i wasnt running on expert mode, so i couldnt pick and choose and no one seemed to share in that regard. Long story short, i accepted the action plan and once it came to my head unit, it took close to 6hr to move 20%. i decided to abort the action and as a result, my head unit got shot. also my CAS died and i almost lost my mind lol...result of that, i bought another head unit and lost navigation and took me few weeks to figure out how to resurrect my CAS.
OMG, i am so sorry to hear that you had to spend major $ to get it fix.

You had been very kind helping guys in this forum to make sure that they don't repeat what you had experienced. I am very grateful with you hand holding me all the way, man.

I have another MINI, a R60. It is a 2017 R60, my wife is using it. therefore i am tempting to invest in ICOM as USB K+DCAN is limited in capability.

Many thanks.
 
  #34  
Old 05-03-2019, 09:39 PM
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Hey MiniToBe,

I am sorry to once again trouble you.

I have stupidly selected one of the immediate action list and the MOST adapter is gone. It is the EMOA in the immediate action list. Is there anyway to get the MOST adapter back ???






This image clearly show that MOST is not there and i have not proceed with the programming



Question : I can't just program and code the JBE, whenever i select "Determine measure plan" it will include KOMBI and ABS/ASC/DSC.
 
  #35  
Old 05-04-2019, 04:36 AM
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As for the MOST ring, i can still see it. If you mean it shows it in blue that meant it was gone, that's incorrect. As a rule of thumb, being able to see the module means it is there.

When it comes to prog and coding, istap usually adds few modules to the mix for some reason. That shouldn't be a problem. If this is the minimum requirement to run the process, so be it.

Again, if you dont have winkfp and ncs, maybe you should get them. They use the same cable anyway!

Lastly, MAKE SURE your cable properties (thru device manager) are set right, specifically the latency time should be set to 1ms not 16ms.
 
  #36  
Old 05-04-2019, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
As for the MOST ring, i can still see it. If you mean it shows it in blue that meant it was gone, that's incorrect. As a rule of thumb, being able to see the module means it is there.

When it comes to prog and coding, istap usually adds few modules to the mix for some reason. That shouldn't be a problem. If this is the minimum requirement to run the process, so be it.

Again, if you dont have winkfp and ncs, maybe you should get them. They use the same cable anyway!

Lastly, MAKE SURE your cable properties (thru device manager) are set right, specifically the latency time should be set to 1ms not 16ms.
Hi MiniToBe,

Thanks for your prompt response. I am terribly sorry to trouble you with my problems.

I am sorry for being vague in my explanation. i accidentally added the option - EMOA into my VO. if you check out the image from post #25 picture 1 on the left hand side there are "D-CAN and MOST con...", whereas after adding teh EMOA it wasn't there anymore. This happened when i accidentally click something in the "immediate action list tab" in ISTAP and the MOST adapter had been disable. I would like to restore my VO to original with no EMOA, how can i achieve that??

Second question : I cant seems to just program and code JBE alone, ISTAP will include some other measures which i am not sure.

For your information I have just completed my NCS and winKFP installation and tested working fine. I have used NCS to retrieve the CAS module.

I have also check out the trace from the ISTAP- where the asw.trc file clearly shown the 3 extra code that had been added for frm modules from my original. Attached image for your reference.





Many thanks.
 

Last edited by edwkmho; 05-04-2019 at 06:14 AM.
  #37  
Old 05-04-2019, 06:21 AM
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You could use NCS to delete that VO.

Since you got winfkp and ncs ready, i suggest using them instead of ISTAP. But should you use ISTAP, it is ok if it wants to code and program the "suggested" modules. I personally could never get it to solely program/code one module!

Take your time and don't rush it. "Measure twice, cut once"
 
  #38  
Old 05-04-2019, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
You could use NCS to delete that VO.

Since you got winfkp and ncs ready, i suggest using them instead of ISTAP. But should you use ISTAP, it is ok if it wants to code and program the "suggested" modules. I personally could never get it to solely program/code one module!

Take your time and don't rush it. "Measure twice, cut once"
My first task is to delete the EMOA option from the VO, then follow with the programming.

I have never done anything with NCS before need to read up how it can be done. How can i find out which module and code that i need to change, would you mind helping me.

Have check the forum encountered this statement : by sending empty FSW_PSW.MAN with NCS will code each module back to the factory default settings. Can I perform this to take out the EMOA option as my factory default does not have that?

Many thanks.
 

Last edited by edwkmho; 05-04-2019 at 06:47 AM.
  #39  
Old 05-04-2019, 06:39 AM
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YouTube changing vo using nsc and follow the steps. You would want to delete that EMOA when you reach the VO list.

When i get some time today, we could teamview if you want. I'm working on a mini replacing the timing chain, turbo oil feed line, and front struts lol
 
  #40  
Old 05-04-2019, 07:19 AM
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Let me not disturb you further. You have handful of tasks.

I will check out how to take EMOA from the VO and then recode my JBE.

Will let you know if i required your remote help.

Many thanks.
 
  #41  
Old 05-04-2019, 09:23 PM
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Hi MiniToBe,

I have tried with NCS to delete the EMOA from the VO list, unfortunately unsuccessful, not sure why? Tried couple of time but the option still there.

Any suggestion. Thanks.

Update:
Managed to get rid of the EMOA from my VO list. My bad missing the delete key press after highlighting the VO entry. Now working on the coding the new JBE.
My VO list after remove of the EMOA - R56_#0309&T9E1%0851*MF92$210$226$249$255$2PA$313$3 14$322$329$345$346$383$420$423$428$431$441$450$481 $493$4AA$4AU$4BA$4BD$4UF$520$521$522$534$548$550$5 63$5AA$5DD$5DT$6FC$6FD$6ND$785$818$825$845$853$861 $864$872$876$880$8S2$8TG$925-A070-EWS4-SDON
 

Last edited by edwkmho; 05-05-2019 at 12:50 AM.
  #42  
Old 05-08-2019, 12:43 AM
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Hey guys,

I have managed to reprogram my new JBE with NCS + winKFP instead of ISTA-P.

I had confirmed there isn't any more error with ISTA-D.

Many thanks for your help.
 
  #43  
Old 05-08-2019, 08:50 AM
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That's very good news and glad you were able to go through with the process. kudos to you brother.
 
  #44  
Old 08-19-2019, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by EuroMan
I have a 2010 Clubman S that has lost supply voltage to LPFP in tank. F43-20A fuse is good. The Relay in the passenger footwell #61366901469 is not the Fuel Pump Relay, although it does feed the Fuel Pump Circuit along with all the systems in the central dash console. There are parts listings for another relay Part #: 61-36-6-977-982-BOE for the fuel pump. If so where is it located? The other info I have found states the Fuel pump relay is integrated into the kick panel Fuse Box Housing and is part of the circuit board; which means replacing and recoding the Fuse Box (expensive vs a $20 relay).

I can wire in an external relay to feed the pump but I need to know which wire leaving the Fuse Box feeds the LPFP. All options considered. Thanks
Do you know what cluster of wires goes to the lpfp? I have this same problem, and I just want to install a relay to control the lpfp independently. I don’t know what wires to splice to cut the relay on the board and put the new relay in its place.

Thanks
 
  #45  
Old 08-22-2019, 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by gresh
Do you know what cluster of wires goes to the lpfp? I have this same problem, and I just want to install a relay to control the lpfp independently. I don’t know what wires to splice to cut the relay on the board and put the new relay in its place.

Thanks
As i have learned from my pass experience with the lpfp issue not long ago. It is not difficult to troubleshoot and get the root cause of the issue. On top of that you should not change the wiring diagram as it is all control from ECU. Just check the voltage at the lpfp socket when you turn on the ignition (without starting the engine), if there is no power supply then your relay K96 is the root cause. Here i am assuming that your lpfp is working fine.

The next action will be getting a new JBE or used with the confirmation that the K96 relay is working fine.

Hope this help.
 
  #46  
Old 08-22-2019, 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by edwkmho
As i have learned from my pass experience with the lpfp issue not long ago. It is not difficult to troubleshoot and get the root cause of the issue. On top of that you should not change the wiring diagram as it is all control from ECU. Just check the voltage at the lpfp socket when you turn on the ignition (without starting the engine), if there is no power supply then your relay K96 is the root cause. Here i am assuming that your lpfp is working fine.

The next action will be getting a new JBE or used with the confirmation that the K96 relay is working fine.

Hope this help.
If the K96 relay is just a relay, there should be no issue just replacing that. That is pretty straight forward. If that doesnt work, I will look at a new JBE. The lpfp works fine when I start off, but all fuel pressure dies when im driving it. At that point, there is no power to the lpfp. I am not done diagnosing it yet, so I will post the results.
 
  #47  
Old 08-23-2019, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by gresh
If the K96 relay is just a relay, there should be no issue just replacing that. That is pretty straight forward. If that doesnt work, I will look at a new JBE. The lpfp works fine when I start off, but all fuel pressure dies when im driving it. At that point, there is no power to the lpfp. I am not done diagnosing it yet, so I will post the results.
I'm sorry had missed the most important piece of information. Relay k96 is not a relay you can replace. It's something into the board, that is went i have to get a new JBE.

I have also tried to find the relay from internet, unfortunately to no avail. I was hoping can just replace the relay too.
 
  #48  
Old 08-23-2019, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by edwkmho
I'm sorry had missed the most important piece of information. Relay k96 is not a relay you can replace. It's something into the board, that is went i have to get a new JBE.

I have also tried to find the relay from internet, unfortunately to no avail. I was hoping can just replace the relay too.
Thanks. I have removed the JBE. I understand that the relay is on the board. The wires that feed the power to the relay and the wires that give power to the lpfp are all in 1 set of wires that plugs into the JBE. If I can identify which set of wires, I can just unplug those and plug them into a separate relay. I just don’t know what set of wires that is. It looks like no one in here does either, so I will just trace back the 4 posts on the relay back to the port that the wiring harness plugs into. That’s a pain, which is why I was hoping someone here had done it, since this is a pretty common problem. Thanks for your help. I’ll keep you posted on how it goes.
 
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Old 08-23-2019, 06:26 AM
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This is the Low pressure fuel pump diagram hope it helps you to determine the wiring.

[size=3]Wire color code :[/size]
[size=3]WS - white[/size]
BL - blue
BR - brown
VI - violet
GN - green
 
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by edwkmho

This is the Low pressure fuel pump diagram hope it helps you to determine the wiring.

[size=3]Wire color code :[/size]
[size=3]WS - white[/size]
BL - blue
BR - brown
VI - violet
GN - green
Sort of a bad design. The fuel pump relay takes the coil power from another relay, so in my case, it could be either of them because its intermittent. I guess that since the 30G relay probably control other things, and the only thing thats going out is the lpfp, then it has to be the lpfp relay and not the other. Thats what Im going with for now. Relays are cheap, so if I have to replace 2, so be it. Thanks for the diagram. It helps alot.
 


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