Hello guys,

I own a 2006 Cooper S Checkmate Edition w/ the 6spd Auto Steptronic Trans (GA6F21WA-K0). I purchased the car 5 months ago from a private party and ever since I bought it, it had a slight jerk and delay when shifting on gears 1-3. Last night I took a curve that was slightly sharp coming off the fwy off ramp and stopped at the light. When the light turned green and I accelerated, the car lagged heavily and wound itself up to speed. I have never experienced this issue before. I continued to drive it and nothing changed, I put it into park and then into D again and heard a "thump/clunk" sound from the trans. I shut the car off and restarted the car and the issue was gone. Back to normal acceleration, once I came to a stop it did the same issue again. I was 10 mins from home so I drove it slowly and the "Service Engine Light" came on and "EP" came on where my gear would indicate D. I got home and pulled the code reader and it gave me the following codes:

P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction
P0732 Gear 2 Incorrect Ratio
P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio

I reset the codes and the lights went away and drove the car around the block and the lights have not come back on, car does not lag like before but I do feel a slight hesitance and lag in pick up speed still. I have read many confusing threads and forums that indicate my car was equipped with a CVT trans and Mini dealer says the equipped trans based on my VIN is the GA6F21WA-KO 6 Spd Auto Steptronic Transmission and service guy at Southbay MINI conformed it is NOT the CVT. I am leaning towards the fact its not, but am very confused on what to start checking or doing. I made an appt with a local BMW/Mini mechanic and he said he would clear faults and adaptations but I read that this procedure is only for CVT transmissions. Im so confused!!!

Can you guys help me out? Thank yo so much in advance!!!!

Car info:
2006 Cooper S Checkmate Edition
Automatic w/ paddle shifters
6 spd trans
142k

 

Your post just went live.

I don't know too much about the autos but when was the last time the transmission was serviced?

 

You say that your car is a supercharged 'S' and therefore it is NOT a CVT.

 

I am pretty confident that your valve body is worn or solenoids are sticking. The fix is to replace your valve body with a reman one from one of several suppliers who also will give you a credit for your old one. This is pretty common and should run you about $1500. Your MINI dealer likely will recommend a new tranny for $12K and won't know or care about a reman valve body I would not waste money on the dealer. Go to a tranny shop that knows about MINIs.

The tranny is known as an O9G made by Aisin and was used in VW, Saab and MINI. Not a CVT.

You can read up about it on the thread "Aisin transmission failed at 80k"

 

I am not sure but service records don't show a transmission service. I was thinking of starting with a fluid and filter change.

 

Yes, I am aware now but so many confusing posts out there saying that it does have CVT and others that it does not and so on...but yeah I even read through Real OEM that its called a ECVT 6 spd trans

 

Hmm, that's the 1st I hear of this fix for the issue. I took it to a BMW certified mechanic and he read the codes and test drove it and so the car shifts fine from 1-3rd gears but gets stuck on 3rd. Once it has gone into 3rd gear it will not upshift into 4th or downshift to 2nd or 1st once you slow down, hence the slipping when you begin to accelerate from a stop.

Weird thing is that once the car is shut off and restarted, it begins to drive fine as long as 3rd gear doesn't engage. I will be getting word from the mechanic soon after verifying the codes and possible fixes and will report to you guys. Thanks a lot for taking the time to reply.

P.S... We disconnected the battery and reset the ECM, cleared the codes and tested again but EP, p0700 and p0733 come up still after driving for a while .

 

No need for confusion, the S never got a CVT and the Justa (non-S) never got the conventional torque converter auto trans, but BOTH are problematic!

 

Yes, I agree.
I am interested to see what the end diagnosis is as there are so many variables. (biting nails)

 

Any one here in So Cal know a good inexpensive indie shop or even mechanic?

 

UPDATE:

I did the following during the week and the results:

- Shorted the battery terminals together for 10 minutes, reset the clock and ECM: Nothing happen
- Verified any trans leaks and none found

I do recall now that the issue began when I used the paddle shifters to switch gears and that is when all of this began. I have been told (unofficial over the phone diagnosis) that it could be the valve body and it might need a replacement. I have found tested valve bodies for my trans in the $400 range and they come with warranty and so wondering if I replace that would the issue somehow be resolved once and for all or would the issue most likely lie with the valve body as the coves p0732 p0733 and p0733 indicate an issue with the gears and when the car is turned off and turned back on it goes away momentarily would indicate an electrical malfunction. IDK, im sorry guys if I dont make much sense, im just reading alot on this and fingers point all sorts of directions and even the indie Mini mechanic cant tell me for sure what the issue is.

I dont want to spend all that money and then it not be the issue .....Any other suggestions?

Or any help locating a good indie mechanic here in southern cali would help too..thanks!

 

my 2 cents, I would not put a used (unremanufactured) VB in there unless you plan to sell the car before the end of the warranty on that part.

 

Hmm really?? I have read on multiple places that a good used (tested) VB is o.k to replace but yeah I get you that at all times a reman would be best rather than a pulled part. I am just trying to find out the best possible options. I found a used trans for $500 at a local trans shop but man this is so frustrating not knowing and i def dont wantto take it to mini and get charged $200 hour inspection fee

 

What is the skill level to replace the valve body on this trans? Or is this a strictly "leave it to the professionals" type of job

 

? anyone ?

 

The DIY is definitely an option. There are detailed steps in the giant "failed at 80K" thread. Lift the car, drop the tranny pan, filter and old VB. Label all the solenoid plugs, install new VB filter, gasket and pan. Fill to correct level (this takes some doing as it has to be at the correct temperature). Reset the TCU for adaptation, likely need a professional scanner for this or pay dealer.

 

Bro you are awesome! I appreciate you following up with my posts.

After this repair is it something that I can drive it to the dealer or BMW tech to get the TCU reset for adaptations or would it need to be towed?

I am also looking for the failed at "80k thread but cannot find it"

 

Here's a link with some notes on shifting tuning/adjustments for some Aisin 6 speed transmissions:

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...n-fwd-6-speeds

 

Great follow up, Ill def print this out and keep it for my rcords

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...t=aisin+failed

I didn't do it myself, don't know for certain if you can drive without adaptation, probably can but it may shift harshely.

 

wow the issue is very similar to mine. Glad to know that prices on transmissions are lower and more accessible here in California

 

still no resolve to this matter, I'm getting conflicting info from various sources that it can be the valve body and others that the whole trans will need to be replaced.

I can get a rebuilt VB for $600 + core and labor
I can get a used transmission for $700 + core labor

and obviously the trans replacement is more expensive and labor alot more as well. The valve body I assume would be cheaper cost but i haven't checked on how much to remove mine and put the reman VB on, not to mention the place wanting mine as a core. After all of this, there is no 100% definite diagnosis of the issue and that is what I am having a hard time even doing either of these due to the tremendous out of pocket cost for the issue to end up not being resolved as many others here have had happen to them.

A Dealer is a No-No for me as even one of their techs couldn't tell me what was wrong for sure using the BMW software/diagnosis machine so, any word on local guys or good independent spots in SoCal anyone can recommend???

 

My neighbor has a 2007 R52 with the paddle shifter Auto Trans, she had her transmission serviced (filter and fluid) at 100K but in addition the tech at the Indy shop also did a software update that changed the shift points of the VB.

For the most part the cars runs very similar to new, very peppy.

Best of luck.

Motor On!

 

Thanks for the reply, Was she also experiencing the same or similar issues as me?

I was told that the adaptation could not be done on my car WTF??

 

What shop did the service and do you have any info on the software update?