Battery keeps dying
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5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Chicago
Battery keeps dying
My battery keeps dying 100% after about 4-5 days of sitting, won't unlock doors, no lights when I turn key to accessory. I'm at a loss as to whether it's a parasitic loss in the car or it's a shitty battery. Battery has tested alright with the handheld testers. Any idea how to start troubleshooting or should I just go get a new battery and see if that solves the problem. All in all, that might be the cheapest/easiest way to test....
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From: soggy pnw
Get yourself one of this and grasp the basics of current draw. You will thank me forever.
Back to my JCW inspired ungrade for Desire.
Back to my JCW inspired ungrade for Desire.
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
Moving you to the Stock Problems/Issues section.
If the battery was "tested" and they said it was ok, then it would be logical to assume you have an amp draw somewhere if the battery draws down when the car is parked.
If the battery was "tested" and they said it was ok, then it would be logical to assume you have an amp draw somewhere if the battery draws down when the car is parked.
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5th Gear
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From: Chicago
Thanks for the move.
PNW - I have a voltmeter, I think. I would need to find it. Is something special about the clamp that makes it better/easier? I guess after that I have no idea how to troubleshoot and FIND the draw. If WNW is correct, I guess the most logical spot would be the wiring for the electric water pump.
Whine - It tests good on the handhelds but I don't think it's the highest quality battery. But it does hold a charge after a nice drive so a draw would be logical...
PNW - I have a voltmeter, I think. I would need to find it. Is something special about the clamp that makes it better/easier? I guess after that I have no idea how to troubleshoot and FIND the draw. If WNW is correct, I guess the most logical spot would be the wiring for the electric water pump.
Whine - It tests good on the handhelds but I don't think it's the highest quality battery. But it does hold a charge after a nice drive so a draw would be logical...
OVERDRIVE
Joined: Mar 2013
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
There are two ground straps under the hood, one that attaches to the motor by the motor mount (at least on the facelifts) and one to the right of the ECU. The one by the ECU is down in the engine compartment and attaches up near the firewall. Me, I would disconnect one, see if the battery dies, and if not then the other. At least you eliminate some of the items to double check. Also, there are large fuses on the bottom of the engine area fuse/relay box that include the PS pump and some other main interior systems.
1st Gear
Joined: May 2018
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From: Temple, Ga
Diagnose don't throw parts. I'm new to the forum but also teach basic electrical to diesel students. In basic terms you have something still "on" when you turn the ignition off. This can be a simple light bulb or a module that doesn't enter sleep mode.
Depending on the unit the battery was tested with it may have given the remaining CCA it has due to sulfation. Even though it may be a 900 cca rating it really may be at 250.
The normal testing procedure is to install a digital multimeter that also reads amps.in series with one of the battery cables. Allow the modules to enter sleep mode and observe the current draw. On American cars, trucks and heavy equipment the usual draw will be around 200 - 300 miliamps. I'm going to assume it is the same here.
There are various procedures to use from this point in determining which circuit has the fault. VW uses a method of measuring across the fuse test points but you need a good meter for this test. The other method is to pull fuses and watch for the draw to drop. But when the fuse is reinserted a module may power up and increase the draw until it enters sleep mode again. Better order pizza for that since it is very time consuming.
Depending on the unit the battery was tested with it may have given the remaining CCA it has due to sulfation. Even though it may be a 900 cca rating it really may be at 250.
The normal testing procedure is to install a digital multimeter that also reads amps.in series with one of the battery cables. Allow the modules to enter sleep mode and observe the current draw. On American cars, trucks and heavy equipment the usual draw will be around 200 - 300 miliamps. I'm going to assume it is the same here.
There are various procedures to use from this point in determining which circuit has the fault. VW uses a method of measuring across the fuse test points but you need a good meter for this test. The other method is to pull fuses and watch for the draw to drop. But when the fuse is reinserted a module may power up and increase the draw until it enters sleep mode again. Better order pizza for that since it is very time consuming.
Last edited by stamp11127; May 16, 2018 at 06:03 AM.
OVERDRIVE
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From: Fuquay Varina, NC
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OVERDRIVE
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From: earth PNW
Method of testing https://www.searchautoparts.com/moto...parasitic-draw is probably what that post above talks about.
1st Gear
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 36
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From: Temple, Ga
VW Parasitic Draw Testing Method
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php%3Ft%3D367932&ved=2ahUKEwjYtLWa4YrbA hVDWq0KHUkXBtMQjjgwEnoECAcQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1PerGq5vDT 2FWGSOUkYr2r
If that doesn't work just google "vw parasitic draw test". The one the shows up in the TDI forum links to the pdf.
If that doesn't work just google "vw parasitic draw test". The one the shows up in the TDI forum links to the pdf.
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5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Chicago
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php%3Ft%3D367932&ved=2ahUKEwjYtLWa4YrbA hVDWq0KHUkXBtMQjjgwEnoECAcQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1PerGq5vDT 2FWGSOUkYr2r
If that doesn't work just google "vw parasitic draw test". The one the shows up in the TDI forum links to the pdf.
If that doesn't work just google "vw parasitic draw test". The one the shows up in the TDI forum links to the pdf.
https://bit.ly/2rOC7QL
Thread Starter
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5th Gear
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 648
Likes: 38
From: Chicago
Diagnose don't throw parts. I'm new to the forum but also teach basic electrical to diesel students. In basic terms you have something still "on" when you turn the ignition off. This can be a simple light bulb or a module that doesn't enter sleep mode.
Depending on the unit the battery was tested with it may have given the remaining CCA it has due to sulfation. Even though it may be a 900 cca rating it really may be at 250.
The normal testing procedure is to install a digital multimeter that also reads amps.in series with one of the battery cables. Allow the modules to enter sleep mode and observe the current draw. On American cars, trucks and heavy equipment the usual draw will be around 200 - 300 miliamps. I'm going to assume it is the same here.
There are various procedures to use from this point in determining which circuit has the fault. VW uses a method of measuring across the fuse test points but you need a good meter for this test. The other method is to pull fuses and watch for the draw to drop. But when the fuse is reinserted a module may power up and increase the draw until it enters sleep mode again. Better order pizza for that since it is very time consuming.
Depending on the unit the battery was tested with it may have given the remaining CCA it has due to sulfation. Even though it may be a 900 cca rating it really may be at 250.
The normal testing procedure is to install a digital multimeter that also reads amps.in series with one of the battery cables. Allow the modules to enter sleep mode and observe the current draw. On American cars, trucks and heavy equipment the usual draw will be around 200 - 300 miliamps. I'm going to assume it is the same here.
There are various procedures to use from this point in determining which circuit has the fault. VW uses a method of measuring across the fuse test points but you need a good meter for this test. The other method is to pull fuses and watch for the draw to drop. But when the fuse is reinserted a module may power up and increase the draw until it enters sleep mode again. Better order pizza for that since it is very time consuming.
As mentioned above, there's an electric water pump in conjunction with the sprintex, of which I didn't do the wiring. IF I'm drawing something, that's my first check. Logically, since it dies after about a week, I'm assuming there's a draw. Fun summer project!
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