Block surface tolerance
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 182
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From: Northern California Bay Area
Block surface tolerance
Head and block surface flatness tolerances are not in Bentley. I found head tolerance on newTis at .1mm longitudinal and .05mm transverse. Would it be the same for the engine block?
Assuming that it is, my longitudinal measurements at .1mm check out. It doesn’t fit anywhere. However checking the block transversely at .05mm it didn’t pass. The gauge fit pretty much everywhere over the cylinders and didn’t fit over the other areas. I tried the .1mm gauge too transversely and it didn’t fit. So I’m thinking I’m somewhere in between .1mm and .05mm.
Head is milled so I know that’s flat. I have a .3mm oversize gasket. Also the head gasket had no issues before. Head came off because of burnt valve and was repaired at machine shop. All my parts ($800) came from ECS and am very happy with them. Based on this would I be okay reassembling and would the oversize gasket compensate for differences? Or do I need to resurface block? Trying to avoid pulling engine. I don’t have a shop crane and I’d have to buy more gaskets and bolts. Already in this $1300 starting to get expensive.
If block absolutely must be resurfaced any advice on DIY block sanding it?
Assuming that it is, my longitudinal measurements at .1mm check out. It doesn’t fit anywhere. However checking the block transversely at .05mm it didn’t pass. The gauge fit pretty much everywhere over the cylinders and didn’t fit over the other areas. I tried the .1mm gauge too transversely and it didn’t fit. So I’m thinking I’m somewhere in between .1mm and .05mm.
Head is milled so I know that’s flat. I have a .3mm oversize gasket. Also the head gasket had no issues before. Head came off because of burnt valve and was repaired at machine shop. All my parts ($800) came from ECS and am very happy with them. Based on this would I be okay reassembling and would the oversize gasket compensate for differences? Or do I need to resurface block? Trying to avoid pulling engine. I don’t have a shop crane and I’d have to buy more gaskets and bolts. Already in this $1300 starting to get expensive.
If block absolutely must be resurfaced any advice on DIY block sanding it?
Last edited by shanksamillion; May 5, 2018 at 01:55 PM. Reason: Wrong numbers
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 182
Likes: 9
From: Northern California Bay Area
More info
Also tried the .003” gauge transversely and it didn’t fit so I’m just barely over the limit by at most a thou, probably less. I’m thinking I’m good to go with reassembling.
5th Gear
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 991
Likes: 224
You don't want to have to do this later after a head gasket leaks.
As for no crane I can recall -- when I was much younger -- removing by lifting it out the 1.6l 4-cylinder cast iron block (minus the head, intake, and exhaust) from my Datsun 510.
However, I have to admit when it came time to put the engine (with the head on it but still no intake or exhaust systems) back in the car I rented an engine hoist.
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3rd Gear
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 182
Likes: 9
From: Northern California Bay Area
I was afraid this was gonna be the response. Just to confirm, being off by less than a thou in only one direction is going to prevent gasket from sealing properly or almost certainly fail in near future? Seriously what are the odds it seals up good and I have no issues?
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