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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S(R56), and Cabrio (R57).
Ok fellas, I need some advice. Im about to pull my hair out. I have a 2009 Base Mini Cooper HB and can not get the cooling fan (engine) to run properly (when the engine is hot). I replaced the coolant temperature sensor with an after market sensor, fan wouldnt come on. Then purchased an un-godly expensive OEM coolant temp sensor, no fan. I did bleed the screw valve located next to the sensor several times to make sure no air was in there both times.
I swapped the two relays under the hood for the fan but that changed nothing. I then discovered that if I unplug the coolant temp sensor, the fan comes on and runs when ever the engine is running and when you shut the engine off it runs for about 15 minutes and then shuts off by it's self. I had to do this to stop my engine from overheating. Eventually the fan wore out and I just replaced it today. Nothing has changed, it still only operates with the sensor unplugged and it runs all the time, unless of course I plug the sensor back in and then it never comes on.
After installing the new fan today I bled the valve again, just to be sure, and then drove the car for several miles at both low speed high rpm and then at higway speed for several miles with the heater turned completely off to ensure that the engine gets warm. Still no fan with the sensor plugged in.
My heat in the car works fine, a/c cools fine. Not sure if turning on the A/C is supposed to make the engine cooling fan come on but it doesnt (with the temp sensor plugged in).
The engine cooling fan only has two wires going to it and it is not like the older styles that had an exposed resistor that would go bad and stop the low speed from working. I believe that older model fan also had three wire going to it and not two wires like mine.
Anyone have any suggestions? Also is there anyway to push buttons on the steering wheel to see the engine temp?
Seems the R56 has similar problems to the R53 with burned out low speed fan resistors.
I bought the same 100W 0.33R resistor from Amazon that is listed on the R53 thread, and figured out where to connect it on R56 as the wiring is different.
The good news is that no cutting or crimping or permanent soldering etc. to the mini wiring loom is required, it can all be done just by adding two wires in the fuse box next to the ECU.
Photos show the sequence, but basically:
Remove both fan relays
Insert one wire into the low speed fan 12v switched contact
Insert other wire into the high speed fan 12v switched contact
Push both relays back in place, to retain the wire
Use thermal glue to fix the resistor to metal chassis
When the low speed fan relay clicks on, 12v is fed through the resistor to the output side of the high speed relay, which in turn connects down to the fan.
When the high speed fan relay clicks on, the resistor has 12v on both sides so does nothing.
Hope this is useful. Fixed the problem for my 2009 JCW, low speed fan now works correctly when turning on A/C etc.
Seems the R56 has similar problems to the R53 with burned out low speed fan resistors.
I bought the same 100W 0.33R resistor from Amazon that is listed on the R53 thread, and figured out where to connect it on R56 as the wiring is different.
The good news is that no cutting or crimping or permanent soldering etc. to the mini wiring loom is required, it can all be done just by adding two wires in the fuse box next to the ECU.
Remove both fan relays
Insert one wire into the low speed fan 12v switched contact socket
Insert other wire into the high speed fan 12v switched contact socket
Push both relays back in firmly, to jam the wires in place
Use thermal glue to fix the resistor to metal chassis
When the low speed fan relay clicks on, 12v is fed through the resistor to the output side of the high speed relay, which in turn connects down to the fan.
When the high speed fan relay clicks on, the resistor has 12v on both sides so does nothing.
Hope this is useful. Fixed the problem for my 2009 JCW, low speed fan now works correctly when turning on A/C etc.
Does anybody else have an idea?? I have exact same issues. I've replaced the Fan & Temp sensor, moved relays and changed with known good used ones. Fan will not run with AC on, but will when the temp sensor is unplugged.. The AC compressor clutch does engage when turned on ... car will overheat and shut off at approx 108C... i can see the temps with scanner ( creator 310+). .. any other troubleshooting suggestions.. Im pretty sure somebody has the holy grail answer..
I am having a similar problem on my mini. It’s a 2012 base R60.
i don’t have both relays, just one.
wonder if this can be my issue, with the resistor.
I am in a similar boat as Alexr54. My base 08 only has one fan, one relay, and two wires going to the fan. I have been assuming it only has on speed, high. But the fan never kicks in, unless i unplug the ECT sensor.
I am very confident the ECT is working fine, I can watch the temp on my Creader scan tool. I am confident the relay is fine, i’ve tested it with a 9V battery. I am certain it is not the wires, as the fan does go into safe mode when I remove the ECT sensor.
i would love to know if anyone has an idea. Is the fan a single speed fan? Part no. 17422754854. What does anyone recommend me looking into?
Hi folks.
Just joining in on the conversation here because my 2013 cooper overheated and the ac blows warm air at a stop light. I checked under the hood and in the fuse box, there is an empty slot where the "electric fan 2" relay switch should be. Anybody find that odd?? Anyways, I have to get a relay switch from BMW in town cause the Mini dealership is 150 k away and none of the auto parts stores in town have this relay switch. @ $40 for the part (which isnt too bad for a mini part, I guess), I hope I am not wasting my money cause I am reading about all these other issues with fans not coming on!
The pic below shows the missing relay (I pulled the pic from online). Anybody confident that this will fix the issue?
I do not find that entirely weird, that you only have one relay. On my 2008 Mini Cooper, I only have one relay. I only have one fan, so that there is no relay for "Fan 2," seems entirely okay. I had a problem with overheating, I chased it down, first looking at the relay, and similarly was concerned that I only had 1. I don't know if you have a multimeter, and a 9V battery [I bought mine from Harbor Freight $17]. I would double check the relay that you have in the FAN 1 slot, and how many fans you have [I am inclined to believe you only have 1 fan also, that provides the high and low fan speeds, but only 1 fan would need only 1 relay].
I replaced the thermostat/housing, ECT-sensor, full coolant flush and lots of time invested trying to figure out what my problem was. Ultimately I realized it was a torn O-ring on the expansion tank that was causing my boiling over problem, coolant was gushing out after 12 min of driving. The torn O-ring was caused probably by the car overheating, because the fan was not engaging at the right temp. These cars drive a little hotter then others, but once the car reaches 215F start paying attention to make sure the fan is engaging. I replaced the fan (easiest fan I have ever seen), and all has been well for the past 3 months.
I do not find that entirely weird, that you only have one relay. On my 2008 Mini Cooper, I only have one relay. I only have one fan, so that there is no relay for "Fan 2," seems entirely okay. I had a problem with overheating, I chased it down, first looking at the relay, and similarly was concerned that I only had 1. I don't know if you have a multimeter, and a 9V battery [I bought mine from Harbor Freight $17]. I would double check the relay that you have in the FAN 1 slot, and how many fans you have [I am inclined to believe you only have 1 fan also, that provides the high and low fan speeds, but only 1 fan would need only 1 relay].
I replaced the thermostat/housing, ECT-sensor, full coolant flush and lots of time invested trying to figure out what my problem was. Ultimately I realized it was a torn O-ring on the expansion tank that was causing my boiling over problem, coolant was gushing out after 12 min of driving. The torn O-ring was caused probably by the car overheating, because the fan was not engaging at the right temp. These cars drive a little hotter then others, but once the car reaches 215F start paying attention to make sure the fan is engaging. I replaced the fan (easiest fan I have ever seen), and all has been well for the past 3 months.
best of luck.
Same here. I only have one fan relay. Had a similar issue with blowing hot air at stop.
I replaced the fan and everything has been fine for months.
This is good to know! So, I wont bother picking up the part because I only have one fan! For some reason, I thought "fan 2" meant that it turned the fan on at the second stage...like a higher speed or something. I will check other fuses too, to verify whether or not my fan is even coming on.
Actually, I just came back in from checking under the hood. I looked at my fuses and low-and-behold, my 40A fuse for the fan was blown! I dont know why I didnt check that one first, before thinking it was the relay!! So I replaced it and checked by starting it up and turning on the ac...the fan works! Problem solved!
40a fuse blown!
Thanks guys for being available to just bounce off ideas! It is great to know there is a community of folks to join in on our tales of woe!
Happy ending here...as long as the fuse doesnt keep blowing, that is. I will have to keep an eye on it. If the fuse blows again, I will have more questions about why, I am sure. Perhaps we will have further conversations...noooooo!! Praying (literally) that this is resolved, though.
Ok fellas, I need some advice. Im about to pull my hair out. I have a 2009 Base Mini Cooper HB and can not get the cooling fan (engine) to run properly (when the engine is hot). I replaced the coolant temperature sensor with an after market sensor, fan wouldnt come on. Then purchased an un-godly expensive OEM coolant temp sensor, no fan. I did bleed the screw valve located next to the sensor several times to make sure no air was in there both times.
I swapped the two relays under the hood for the fan but that changed nothing. I then discovered that if I unplug the coolant temp sensor, the fan comes on and runs when ever the engine is running and when you shut the engine off it runs for about 15 minutes and then shuts off by it's self. I had to do this to stop my engine from overheating. Eventually the fan wore out and I just replaced it today. Nothing has changed, it still only operates with the sensor unplugged and it runs all the time, unless of course I plug the sensor back in and then it never comes on.
After installing the new fan today I bled the valve again, just to be sure, and then drove the car for several miles at both low speed high rpm and then at higway speed for several miles with the heater turned completely off to ensure that the engine gets warm. Still no fan with the sensor plugged in.
My heat in the car works fine, a/c cools fine. Not sure if turning on the A/C is supposed to make the engine cooling fan come on but it doesnt (with the temp sensor plugged in).
The engine cooling fan only has two wires going to it and it is not like the older styles that had an exposed resistor that would go bad and stop the low speed from working. I believe that older model fan also had three wire going to it and not two wires like mine.
Anyone have any suggestions? Also is there anyway to push buttons on the steering wheel to see the engine temp?
Hi all, apologies for the thread resurrection but I have exactly these symptoms. Car runs fine, Fan does not. No error codes. A/C on and the fan still wont run. If I pop the sensor off the fan kicks straight in. Plug the sensor back in and it turns off again.
The car is a 2009 model Cooper with no bells or whistles. I have Torque and an OBD2 adapter, Coolant temp has gone over 100 with no sign of fan life. I would assume as the fan comes on with the sensor unplugged the relay is fine (I checked and there is only 1 relay like some of the others here)? The fuse is intact. I was wondering if the OP ever fixed this issue or if any of you gentlemen know what I can try next?
I am not that mechanically minded but I don't mind getting my hands a bit dirty but if its something outside of my comfort zone I would take it to a mechanic but then knowing what it is likely to be would stop me getting my trousers pulled down over the price.
Coolant temp has gone over 100 with no sign of fan life.
What is the max temperature displayed? The thermostat is only meant to come on at 105 to 108 degrees C (depending on software version). The fan itself only comes on at even higher temperatures.
Hey...I initially thought it was the relays too. Then I checked the fuse box under the hood. That was totally the issue, I don’t know why or when it blew, but that was it. Check under the hood. Sometimes the simplest reason is the reason. I have not had any issues with it blowing again. It’s a 40A fuse...did the trick!
Let me know if you figure it out!
jamie
QUOTE=Bitofanewb;4552791]Hi all, apologies for the thread resurrection but I have exactly these symptoms. Car runs fine, Fan does not. No error code. A/C on and the fan still wont run. If I pop the sensor off the fan kicks straight in. Plug the sensor back in and it turns off again.
The car is a 2009 model Cooper with no bells or whistles. I have Torque and an OBD2 adapter, Coolant temp has gone over 100 with no sign of fan life. I would assume as the fan comes on with the sensor unplugged the relay is fine (I checked and there is only 1 relay like some of the others here)? The fuse is intact. I was wondering if the OP ever fixed this issue or if any of you gentlemen know what I can try next?
I am not that mechanically minded but I don't mind getting my hands a bit dirty but if its something outside of my comfort zone I would take it to a mechanic but then knowing what it is likely to be would stop me getting my trousers pulled down over the price.
What is the max temperature displayed? The thermostat is only meant to come on at 105 to 108 degrees C (depending on software version). The fan itself only comes on at even higher temperatures.
I honestly don't think I left it that long but when I was out driving before I didn't ever hear the fan and the temp was over 110 at that time. I can try again because the fan may have come on when I was in traffic and not listening for it. When I stopped it did not come on though. I will check again and let you know.
Hey...I initially thought it was the relays too. Then I checked the fuse box under the hood. That was totally the issue, I don’t know why or when it blew, but that was it. Check under the hood. Sometimes the simplest reason is the reason. I have not had any issues with it blowing again. It’s a 40A fuse...did the trick!
Let me know if you figure it out!
jamie
Hi Jamie,
Appreciate the reply, I have checked the fuse and it was intact, sometimes the simple things escape me though so I do appreciate that.
I honestly don't think I left it that long but when I was out driving before I didn't ever hear the fan and the temp was over 110 at that time. I can try again because the fan may have come on when I was in traffic and not listening for it. When I stopped it did not come on though. I will check again and let you know.
Wow, sorry it's a bit of a late reply. I checked again finally and the fan did not come on at all, water temp over 110. I had to pull the sensor and switch it off.
Any ideas what it could be? I would assume some sensor somewhere has gone and isn't telling the fan to turn on when the temp gets too high but I think I need an expert here.
Seems the R56 has similar problems to the R53 with burned out low speed fan resistors.
I bought the same 100W 0.33R resistor from Amazon that is listed on the R53 thread, and figured out where to connect it on R56 as the wiring is different.
The good news is that no cutting or crimping or permanent soldering etc. to the mini wiring loom is required, it can all be done just by adding two wires in the fuse box next to the ECU.
Photos show the sequence, but basically:
Remove both fan relays
Insert one wire into the low speed fan 12v switched contact
Insert other wire into the high speed fan 12v switched contact
Push both relays back in place, to retain the wire
Use thermal glue to fix the resistor to metal chassis
When the low speed fan relay clicks on, 12v is fed through the resistor to the output side of the high speed relay, which in turn connects down to the fan.
When the high speed fan relay clicks on, the resistor has 12v on both sides so does nothing.
Hope this is useful. Fixed the problem for my 2009 JCW, low speed fan now works correctly when turning on A/C etc.
Hi i am having a problem with my low speed fan not working on my 2012 R56 JCW do you think this trick will work for my car as i do not want to change the whole fan assembly as it is very expensive here in the UK ?
i am having the same problem with my 2012 R56 mini JCW the low speed / stage 1 fan is not coming on only the high speed fan comes on all the time while driving
have had the thermostat changed twice in a month everything else checked water pump fine , radiator fine , etc do you think this trick would work on my car as i do not want to change the whole fan assembly as its very expensive to buy plus labour to fit here in the Uk ? also what wires do i need to buy with the case resistor ?
and is this the one i need ? its from amazon ( sourcingmap 2 Pcs Aluminum Case Resistor 100W 0.33 Ohm Wirewound Green for LED Replacement Converter 100W0.33RJ ) please help i am losing the will with this car
Seems the R56 has similar problems to the R53 with burned out low speed fan resistors.
I bought the same 100W 0.33R resistor from Amazon that is listed on the R53 thread, and figured out where to connect it on R56 as the wiring is different.
The good news is that no cutting or crimping or permanent soldering etc. to the mini wiring loom is required, it can all be done just by adding two wires in the fuse box next to the ECU.
Photos show the sequence, but basically:
Remove both fan relays
Insert one wire into the low speed fan 12v switched contact
Insert other wire into the high speed fan 12v switched contact
Push both relays back in place, to retain the wire
Use thermal glue to fix the resistor to metal chassis
When the low speed fan relay clicks on, 12v is fed through the resistor to the output side of the high speed relay, which in turn connects down to the fan.
When the high speed fan relay clicks on, the resistor has 12v on both sides so does nothing.
Hope this is useful. Fixed the problem for my 2009 JCW, low speed fan now works correctly when turning on A/C etc.
Hi Yoshac, don't mind share what guage of wire you used on your solution. Thanks.
03-14-2018, 04:56 PM
