Have the 2B64 code. Car idles rough and shows misfires on cylinder 2.
Did a compression check and all cylinders look good.
Timing and tension is good.
Vanos solenoid working.
Can't find any air leaks.
MAF is OK.
Swapped plug and coil from 2 to another cylinder and misfire stays on 2.

Have read everything I could find and can't find a solution.

If anyone has had this problem and found a solution please respond.

 

let the car rest for a bit and take the spark plug out. shine a light through the hole. do you see a mirror like surface? ----> leaky fuel injector.

there is also a plastic pipe that goes from the valve cover to the intake manifold. inspect for cracks.

there is also an air pipe Y connection right before the throttle body, inspect that.

 

Thanks for the response.

I have just finished looking at misfires on each cylinder. Cylinder 2 is having a lot of misfires. I need to figure out why this is happening.

I know for sure it is not the coil, spark plug, or injector. I guess that only leaves a valve problem, or possible a cracked intake? I also wonder if this could have anything to do with the 2B64?

 

you mentioned compression is good on ALL cylinders. you should never assume anything until you test it. you swapped coils and cyl 2 was still faulty, so coil isnt the issue. you also swapped plugs and cyl 2 was still faulty. that leaves you with the injector. remove the spark plug and LOOK through the hole to see if there is excess gas or not. the injector either is stuck open or close.

 

Hey MiniToBe
I swapped the #2 and #4 injector and still get misfires on cylinder 2? Compression is good on all cylinders. Not sure what to try next. Appreciate suggestions.

 

Years ago to confirm and find/locate an intake leak I used an aerosol carb cleaner -- test this by spraying some into the intake system to first confirm the engine reacts to the stuff and how it reacts: speeds up or slows down -- spraying this stuff at various places where an intake leak might be. Around where the carb (I said above it was years ago) or carbs (I had a car with 2 Weber dual throat side draft carbs fitted), where the intake manifold bolted to the head.

Then at various vacuum hose and hose fittings. If the engine reacted that was the leak...

Nowadays the preferred method is a "smoke" test but some engines can also be tested via pressure (my Porsche 996 Turbo for instance).

With modern engines there can be another cause. In engines with variable valve lift (high/normal and low) at some times low valve lift is active. Cold start and maybe even with the engine up to temperature but at idle. (Low lift reduces engine friction and has the engine experiencing less pumping loss which improves gas mileage and lowers emissions.)

If a valve lifter has a non-functioning high to low lift switch over mechanism a valve can stay in high lift mode when all others are in low lift mode. Because of this the cylinder gets more air than the others and it misfires because it is lean.

This is a hard condition to diagnose. With some cars for which I have a factory manual the process can require a road test with two techs in the car one driving and the other equipped with a special diagnostics computer to monitor O2 sensor readings.

Mini might have its own procedure to test for this condition but I don't know what it is.

 

Thanks RockC. Mine is an 08 R56 and I am not aware that it has variable valve lift? If it did then that might be the problem. I would asume variable valve lift is a valvetronic engine/

 

How many Miles on your Mini? When was the last time you have an intake valve cleaning(Walnut Blasting)? Check every hose and hose clamp from the outpput side of the MAF all the way to the Throttlebody.

 

Mini has 155k. I had the head off and cleaned at 95K. Valves could need cleaning again. It is odd to me that I am only getting misfires on cylinder 2 and the compression is good?

 

to follow up...did you try these :

"there is also a plastic pipe (vent pipe) that goes from the valve cover to the intake manifold. inspect for cracks.
there is also an air pipe Y connection right before the throttle body, inspect that."

Since compression is good (what are the values by the way) and swapping the plug and injectors did not yield to any change, then you move to electrical testing. did you test the spark plug for visual ignition? can you inspect the wires for cuts or mice/rat bites?

 

I think I got the 2B64 code problem solved. I took the rear vent pipe and cut the ends off and made a new pipe with rubber hose. The code has not come back. Upon inspection and after removing the sheathing I can see what might a tiny crack about 1/2 inch long. Can't tell if it is all the way through the plastic or not. It is hard to believe they would put such a cheap piece of plastic on the car.

Now if I can figure out the cylinder 2 misfires.
I don't remember the exact number on the compression test but all 4 cylinders were close.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

after clearing the codes, do you still have a CEL for P0302? if so, inspect the wires.

 

The misfires are not generating a code but are still happening.

 

Did you ever fix this problem? I am having similar issue on my car.
Thanks