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Code P1497, trouble finding leak

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Old Dec 24, 2017 | 09:51 AM
  #1  
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Code P1497, trouble finding leak

Hey guys,

I have a 2009 MCS I bought in June, started to get the death rattle so I brought it to Mini and they replaced the timing chain, tensioner, guides etc. for free under recall.

The day after I got it back I was driving some back roads and experienced a sudden drop in power and check engine light. I checked it with my OBD2 scanner and got a P1497.

Long story short, took it back to mini, they did a smoke test and tightened all the hoses, said my intercooler was leaking, so I ordered an aftermarket intercooler and replaced it myself in an afternoon... well, that didn't work and I still had the same code, down on power etc.

They had also told me the PCV was bad, so I have replaced the valve cover as well, without a change to the code. I have reset it many times only for it to come back on after an hour or so of driving, sometimes immediately, it is very intermittent.

After changing to valve cover, I did a smoke test yesterday and was unable to find any leaks. I pulled off the PCV hose and the charge air cold side hose to check if smoke was flowing thru the whole system, which it was. I wiggled and pressed on hoses to see if maybe a small crack or leak would show itself with the smoke going, without success. I pulled back the sheathing on the plastic PCV hose to check for cracks and found nothing. I retightened the charge air hoses connecting to the new intercooler. The only other mod I have is a Typhoon CAI.

With the engine running, I have tried to listen for an air leak in my engine bay... as far as I can tell, I don't hear any leaks.

Sometimes I have a high idle, some times I don't. Some times when I go to take off from a stoplight, the car will bog down and I think I can hear air being vented, but I'm not sure. It usually stops within 10 seconds or so, especially if I baby it into the higher rpm range. I have occasionally gotten a running too rich code (can't remember number) tho not always. Some times it feels like I am down on power and not getting boost, other times it feels like I have full boost and there is no issue, without any kind of consistency.

Anyone have a suggestion on what to try from here? Could this be the throttle body? MAF sensor? Should I try to unclip the PCV hose and check all along it for cracks?

I'll try any suggestions you guys have over the holidays here... if I can't figure it out by new years, I'm taking it back to the Mini dealership an hour and a half away and just paying to have it figures out, because it's driving me crazy! I haven't been having any fun driving around with this issue, which sucks because I love this car!

Thanks for reading.
 

Last edited by Bodeswell; Dec 24, 2017 at 10:12 AM.
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 06:26 AM
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Since the issue came right after the timing chain service, I would suggest checking that area. Unfortunately, the dealer/dealers are now getting a bad reputation for either not effectively fixing the car, or cause further damage!
having said that, the air pipes leading to the throttle body, the noise maker (air pipe routs from the back of the intake manifold to the plastic cover of the fire wall.) Then, check the timing chain rails bolts. in general, they need to be flush with the engine.

finally, where are you located?
 
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
Since the issue came right after the timing chain service, I would suggest checking that area. Unfortunately, the dealer/dealers are now getting a bad reputation for either not effectively fixing the car, or cause further damage!
having said that, the air pipes leading to the throttle body, the noise maker (air pipe routs from the back of the intake manifold to the plastic cover of the fire wall.) Then, check the timing chain rails bolts. in general, they need to be flush with the engine.

finally, where are you located?
Thanks for your input. I do not enjoy going to dealers, or any mechanics to be honest. I have had many bad experiences.

I have checked the pipes you mentioned, and re-tightened them myself to make sure they were on correctly. I'll pop the valve cover off again and check those rails bolts, thank you. I now suspect there may be a timing issue, as I have seen other threads where the chain is a tooth off, or jumps a tooth after having the dealer replace the chain and guides. I am considering taking it to a local mechanic that specializes in euro cars rather than back to the dealer to get a second opinion.

I am in Bradenton, Florida (South of Tampa Bay). I've been taking the car to Fermin MINI up in Clearwater, which is about 1h 30m away, which is especially bad when I have to leave the car there.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 07:57 AM
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The bolts are outside of the engine. there are two right behind the crankshaft pulley and another one right behind the engine mount bracket. usually there would be oil seepage too.

I dont think the timing is the issue since that code is for air leak. Check it anyway to be sure...Also, I read on another post that carbon build up might restrict/reduce air intake to the cylinders which can cause weaker explosion or rich condition.

lastly, not all OBD readers can erase MINI codes. Another post talked about that and his issue was the reader. just a though.
 
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by MiniToBe
The bolts are outside of the engine. there are two right behind the crankshaft pulley and another one right behind the engine mount bracket. usually there would be oil seepage too.

I dont think the timing is the issue since that code is for air leak. Check it anyway to be sure...Also, I read on another post that carbon build up might restrict/reduce air intake to the cylinders which can cause weaker explosion or rich condition.

lastly, not all OBD readers can erase MINI codes. Another post talked about that and his issue was the reader. just a though.
Great info, thanks for the help! I have been wondering about carbon build up as well. Will update when I've had time to look at it.
 
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Old Jan 6, 2018 | 04:28 AM
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I was unable to find a leak, so I took the car to a local German and performance car specialist. He drove it around and pulled the codes, and his opinion is that I was using poor quality gas (oops, didn't realize that could be an issue... Sam's Club gas is no bueno) and to check approved brands on TopTierGas. I live by a Mobil station so I have started filling up there, and I am doing a seafoam treatments for a couple fill-ups. I'll report back when I know if that has fixed it or not. I will likely get my valves walnut blasted soon as well, since I doubt it's been done and I'm at 76k.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2018 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bodeswell
I was unable to find a leak, so I took the car to a local German and performance car specialist. He drove it around and pulled the codes, and his opinion is that I was using poor quality gas (oops, didn't realize that could be an issue... Sam's Club gas is no bueno) and to check approved brands on TopTierGas. I live by a Mobil station so I have started filling up there, and I am doing a seafoam treatments for a couple fill-ups. I'll report back when I know if that has fixed it or not. I will likely get my valves walnut blasted soon as well, since I doubt it's been done and I'm at 76k.
Gas didn't do anything. Took it back to the dealership, they said it's the MAF and O2 before cat sensor, but when I went to go get it they said it was the throttle sticking because of oil build up from the PCV and O2 sensor... don't know what to think at this point. Going to replace the O2 sensor myself, because they quoted me $400 (outrageous prices) to replace it. If that doesn't work I'm taking it to a local mini specialist for a 3rd opinion. I am nearing the end of my patience with it. Also had to replace the thermostat housing last week as it started leaking.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 10:29 AM
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Any solution?

I was just wondering if you ever figured out the issue as I am experiencing the same symptoms right now?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2019 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Justin Allman
I was just wondering if you ever figured out the issue as I am experiencing the same symptoms right now?
Sorry man, I never figured it out. Took it to another mini specialist who spent almost a month tinkering with it and driving it around to no avail. I sold it last month for a big loss. Only thing I still think it could have been is something wrong with the timing. Maybe a full timing chain, tensioner and guides replacement would have done it, but I couldn't sink any more money into it. Good luck.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2019 | 03:10 PM
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I know this is an old thread but I figured I would post my fix for the P1497 code. I replaced the Vanos valve on my 2009 N14 engine. $35.00 fix. CEL cleared and has not come back on and I passed inspection after changing the valve. No longer have the occasional rough idle or sputter at low RPM's.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Smurfe
I know this is an old thread but I figured I would post my fix for the P1497 code. I replaced the Vanos valve on my 2009 N14 engine. $35.00 fix. CEL cleared and has not come back on and I passed inspection after changing the valve. No longer have the occasional rough idle or sputter at low RPM's.
Thank you for updating in this thread. Hopefully this info can help someone else down the road. Only wish I had thought to try that when I had a Mini.
 
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Old Sep 5, 2019 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Smurfe
I know this is an old thread but I figured I would post my fix for the P1497 code. I replaced the Vanos valve on my 2009 N14 engine. $35.00 fix. CEL cleared and has not come back on and I passed inspection after changing the valve. No longer have the occasional rough idle or sputter at low RPM's.
THANK YOU!! Ive been stuck on this problem for months, it went into limp mode after having the timing chain replaced, the vanos was not part of the kit so will try a new one. Was your car in limp mode by any chance?
 
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Old Sep 6, 2020 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by MiniJoelean
THANK YOU!! Ive been stuck on this problem for months, it went into limp mode after having the timing chain replaced, the vanos was not part of the kit so will try a new one. Was your car in limp mode by any chance?
Did that fix your problem as well. I have a 2009 R56 with the same issue. I am also getting low oil pressure light at idle. I removed the vanos sensor and it was completely clogged with metal flakes. I cleaned it, and the left for about a day. Now it’s back. I may check to see if it clogged again.
 
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Old Feb 7, 2024 | 09:52 PM
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Anybody ever find a cause for this ?? I too am experiencing this issue and ive replaced all hoses , sensors ect, smoke tested ect and everything is OK.
at idle has 19hg and 15psi max boost. Even new intercooler. I'm just at a loss....
 
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