rear shock replacement
#4
Scratching my head about this one - having dropped the stock shocks to install my RSB, then having swapped them for Ohlins, I didn't have any issues. When the shock is disconnected from the trailing arm, the trailing arm will sag all the way down unless it is supported.
What are you removing - stock shocks? What are you replacing them with? Have you compared the length between the two? From the center of the bottom mount to the top of the top mount.
Be very careful threading the bottom bolt into the trailing arm as the bolt is self tapping, it is easy to strip out the threads in the trailing arm. Best to do that first, then raise the top into position and insert the top bolts. Again you should have to support the trailing arm to get the top of the shock into place - something is holding it up.
What are you removing - stock shocks? What are you replacing them with? Have you compared the length between the two? From the center of the bottom mount to the top of the top mount.
Be very careful threading the bottom bolt into the trailing arm as the bolt is self tapping, it is easy to strip out the threads in the trailing arm. Best to do that first, then raise the top into position and insert the top bolts. Again you should have to support the trailing arm to get the top of the shock into place - something is holding it up.
#6
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iTrader: (1)
It has been a while since I have done these but I seem to remember having a slight misalignment problem with one of the sets of shocks I installed.
At this point I would use a roll-around floor jack to push up on the bottom of the shock. Put a small 2x4 block of wood between the jack and the shock bottom. Make sure that the cone section of the shock bottom hangs out enough to fully fit into the socket in the control arm. Have the floor jack aligned so you can wheel the shock bottom into place.
What Squawskibum said is very, very important. You need to make sure the bottom of the shock is aligned with the threaded hole in the control arm before you start to thread in the bolt. I would add a little never-seize to the end of the bolt and make sure to hand thread the bolt into place. Make sure to not cross thread the bolt. The bolt is self tapping and is easily cross in the control arm.
Lastly the BMW torque spec is very high for this bolt. Some discussions suggest that this torque may lead to thread damage and may be part of the cause of the bolt stripping out. It is suggested that, with replacement of shocks, this torque should be lower because you are not cutting new threads as you would be if you were to be installing shocks on a brand new control arm. The wheel bolt are the same size and they are only torqued to 90 - 100 ft-lbs. Your decision, though.
Hope this helps.
At this point I would use a roll-around floor jack to push up on the bottom of the shock. Put a small 2x4 block of wood between the jack and the shock bottom. Make sure that the cone section of the shock bottom hangs out enough to fully fit into the socket in the control arm. Have the floor jack aligned so you can wheel the shock bottom into place.
What Squawskibum said is very, very important. You need to make sure the bottom of the shock is aligned with the threaded hole in the control arm before you start to thread in the bolt. I would add a little never-seize to the end of the bolt and make sure to hand thread the bolt into place. Make sure to not cross thread the bolt. The bolt is self tapping and is easily cross in the control arm.
Lastly the BMW torque spec is very high for this bolt. Some discussions suggest that this torque may lead to thread damage and may be part of the cause of the bolt stripping out. It is suggested that, with replacement of shocks, this torque should be lower because you are not cutting new threads as you would be if you were to be installing shocks on a brand new control arm. The wheel bolt are the same size and they are only torqued to 90 - 100 ft-lbs. Your decision, though.
Hope this helps.
#7
Vendor
iTrader: (10)
You should be able to bend the trailing arm down and line it up.
If you have the wheel on the other side on the ground jack up that side of the car so it is off the ground. When it's on the ground the sway bar will cause the suspension on this side to fight you.
Also make sure the top isn't turned around backwards as the shock should slightly angle towards the outside of the car. If it's backwards it will angle toward the center of the car.
If you have the wheel on the other side on the ground jack up that side of the car so it is off the ground. When it's on the ground the sway bar will cause the suspension on this side to fight you.
Also make sure the top isn't turned around backwards as the shock should slightly angle towards the outside of the car. If it's backwards it will angle toward the center of the car.
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#8
You should be able to bend the trailing arm down and line it up.
If you have the wheel on the other side on the ground jack up that side of the car so it is off the ground. When it's on the ground the sway bar will cause the suspension on this side to fight you.
Also make sure the top isn't turned around backwards as the shock should slightly angle towards the outside of the car. If it's backwards it will angle toward the center of the car.
If you have the wheel on the other side on the ground jack up that side of the car so it is off the ground. When it's on the ground the sway bar will cause the suspension on this side to fight you.
Also make sure the top isn't turned around backwards as the shock should slightly angle towards the outside of the car. If it's backwards it will angle toward the center of the car.
#9
Join Date: Jun 2012
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You got it r53coop!!!
so I thought I could do one side at a time. The other side was not jacked up. You can kinda see this in picture. So with all the weight on the other side it was raising the control arm. With a little help I was able to push the control arm down and fit the bolt.
Today I did the other side but this time I jacked up the whole back end. Got the job done without issues very quick. Super easy. All torqued didn't spec! Thanks for All the input guys!
Now I just need to do the front. I understand that to be a little harder. We will see what happens.
Today I did the other side but this time I jacked up the whole back end. Got the job done without issues very quick. Super easy. All torqued didn't spec! Thanks for All the input guys!
Now I just need to do the front. I understand that to be a little harder. We will see what happens.
Last edited by shanksamillion; 11-18-2017 at 07:00 PM. Reason: Spelling
#10
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Northern California Bay Area
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Scratching my head about this one - having dropped the stock shocks to install my RSB, then having swapped them for Ohlins, I didn't have any issues. When the shock is disconnected from the trailing arm, the trailing arm will sag all the way down unless it is supported.
What are you removing - stock shocks? What are you replacing them with? Have you compared the length between the two? From the center of the bottom mount to the top of the top mount.
Be very careful threading the bottom bolt into the trailing arm as the bolt is self tapping, it is easy to strip out the threads in the trailing arm. Best to do that first, then raise the top into position and insert the top bolts. Again you should have to support the trailing arm to get the top of the shock into place - something is holding it up.
What are you removing - stock shocks? What are you replacing them with? Have you compared the length between the two? From the center of the bottom mount to the top of the top mount.
Be very careful threading the bottom bolt into the trailing arm as the bolt is self tapping, it is easy to strip out the threads in the trailing arm. Best to do that first, then raise the top into position and insert the top bolts. Again you should have to support the trailing arm to get the top of the shock into place - something is holding it up.
#11
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Northern California Bay Area
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Thank you!
Thank you Way Motor Works and everyone that replied. I've done a fair amount of work and will keep an eye on the threads and offer my advice. I do need a lower splash shield to protect the belts. The old one is gone! Also need a new hose system for the wiper washer. All minor stuff. Easy.
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WayMotorWorks (11-19-2017)
#12
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The best thing I did was to put in the Bilstein Sports. You are really going to like them.