What else do i need to do when doing clutch job
What else do i need to do when doing clutch job
I have 03 mini cooper s with 86k.
I'm planning to replace current stock clutch with valeo clutch conversion kit (including flywheel)
since the mini specialist (the shop) drop the subframe, I will also do control arm bushing (PSB) and supercharger oil. When they replace the flywheel, is it better to replace Rear Engine Main Seal as well? link below
What else would I need to do?
I'm planning to replace current stock clutch with valeo clutch conversion kit (including flywheel)
since the mini specialist (the shop) drop the subframe, I will also do control arm bushing (PSB) and supercharger oil. When they replace the flywheel, is it better to replace Rear Engine Main Seal as well? link below
What else would I need to do?
Depends on the state of the car. Given that you're in so-cal you probably won't need to replace things due to rust like I did. I replaced all ball joints, end links, tie rods, etc. Inner CV boots, release bearing, and rear main are good ideas too. I'm at 106k with a questionable history. While you're in there it would be a good idea to address these items for peace of mind.
Depends on the state of the car. Given that you're in so-cal you probably won't need to replace things due to rust like I did. I replaced all ball joints, end links, tie rods, etc. Inner CV boots, release bearing, and rear main are good ideas too. I'm at 106k with a questionable history. While you're in there it would be a good idea to address these items for peace of mind.
I currently replaced CV Axle on passenger side. Do you think inner and outer ball joints also need to be replaced when replacing control arm bushings?
I found one from ebay. I think this is really cheaper than other products.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/4-X-DLZ-Suspe...19.m1438.l2649
Yeah the car is located in socal now. It used to be NM before.
I currently replaced CV Axle on passenger side. Do you think inner and outer ball joints also need to be replaced when replacing control arm bushings?
I found one from ebay. I think this is really cheaper than other products.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/4-X-DLZ-Suspe...19.m1438.l2649
I currently replaced CV Axle on passenger side. Do you think inner and outer ball joints also need to be replaced when replacing control arm bushings?
I found one from ebay. I think this is really cheaper than other products.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/4-X-DLZ-Suspe...19.m1438.l2649
Personally? I'd say yes. They're cheap enough to be a 'while you're in there' type of item and the OE threads are quite fragile. There's a good chance of damaging them upon removal. Not a fan of Ebay components, but at the same time I frequent Rockauto so I'm not sure if my opinion is valid.
Some good info here, moving you to the Stock Problems/Issues area.
Everyone should experience road salt rot then they will really appreciate living in a road salt free area relative to their car.
Everyone should experience road salt rot then they will really appreciate living in a road salt free area relative to their car.
Personally? I'd say yes. They're cheap enough to be a 'while you're in there' type of item and the OE threads are quite fragile. There's a good chance of damaging them upon removal. Not a fan of Ebay components, but at the same time I frequent Rockauto so I'm not sure if my opinion is valid.
Here's what I ordered when I did my transmission swap a few weeks ago. Best ball joints are Lemfoerder brand on PelicanParts.com. Best LCA bushings are PowerFlex, available cheapest on Waymotorworks (last I checked). 
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pep-talk.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pep-talk.html
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Here's what I ordered when I did my transmission swap a few weeks ago. Best ball joints are Lemfoerder brand on PelicanParts.com. Best LCA bushings are PowerFlex, available cheapest on Waymotorworks (last I checked). 
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pep-talk.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-pep-talk.html
Not for Getrag 6-speeds. They're generally bulletproof transmissions, but I bought mine with a damaged input bearing and 4th/6th gear synchros. It whined like crazy in neutral with the clutch engaged, and 4th/6th screamed.
If you drive it and there's no weird noises, crunches, or other symptoms, and you're changing your fluid every 50k miles or so, you should be totally fine, like everyone else on this forum. I just have the R53 from hell, lol.
If you drive it and there's no weird noises, crunches, or other symptoms, and you're changing your fluid every 50k miles or so, you should be totally fine, like everyone else on this forum. I just have the R53 from hell, lol.
Not for Getrag 6-speeds. They're generally bulletproof transmissions, but I bought mine with a damaged input bearing and 4th/6th gear synchros. It whined like crazy in neutral with the clutch engaged, and 4th/6th screamed.
If you drive it and there's no weird noises, crunches, or other symptoms, and you're changing your fluid every 50k miles or so, you should be totally fine, like everyone else on this forum. I just have the R53 from hell, lol.
If you drive it and there's no weird noises, crunches, or other symptoms, and you're changing your fluid every 50k miles or so, you should be totally fine, like everyone else on this forum. I just have the R53 from hell, lol.
I bought this car from NAM member and it was my first driving manual. now i'm used to shifting gear but I always wondered if I shift gear from 1st to 2nd, I can hear the clunk noise, one of my friend who used to drive vw gti manual, he said it's normal but it is little annoying.. is it really normal?
it has only 86k miles. 2003 mini cooper s. I bought redline 75w-90 with valeo clutch conversion kit. I can hear shifting sound from the bottom when I shift.
Yeah hopefully everything is okay. Thank you so much for the info!!







