Hi All,

So the other day my 2006 MCS started dumping out coolant. I took it to a shop down the block since I don't think I'd be able to get more than a few miles back home. They told me the coolant pipes rusted out and gave me an estimate saying the labor time is pretty high. I am a gear head and like fixing and wrenching on my own cars. Does anyone have experience changing out these hard coolant lines? I am always reading article and procedures for repairing these cars but haven't found any documentation on this specific issue.

I am assuming the part is this pair of tubes base on what the mechanic told me. http://new.minimania.com/part/NME874...ctory-Original H8 is the part I am looking at. Any help would be great.

 

Have YOU confirmed that it was actually the metal line (they don't fail often) and NOT one of the many plastic hose fittings in that area that can snap with age? There'a a big difference between spending $200 for a new metal line and just a few $'s for a plastic fitting...

 

I am 95% sure it is a metal line since the mechanic said its a $300 rusted out metal line to me over the phone. I wish it was one of the smaller rubber hoses or plastic connectors but that does not seem to be the case. I can't confirm visually on my own since the car is lowered (cant see anything without a jack), stuck at the shop by my work.

 

I'm not sure of your relationship with this mechanic, but he also told you it was "a $300 rusted out metal line." The part, if it is indeed the culprit here, costs $200, not $300.

Might want to get the car into your possession and scrutinize it for yourself.

 

I appreciate your advice. That is a good point. I think I may just dolly it to my house and check it out for myself. The part that make me uneasy is that I cannot find any pictures or references of anyone ever changing this out. The fear of the unknown for this job is what gets me. Thank you again!

 

Looking at the part, you'll need to get the car on stands and crawl underneath to figure out how this bolts to the rear underside of the engine (To the subframe? To the block?), disconnect it, fish it out - then replace in reverse order. Sounds easy - outside of the strong possibility of next to no working space, and what might be several components that need to be removed to get to it. But that’s half the fun of working on these cars, right?

Have a look, take a deep breath, and please document your findings and replacement procedure with words and photos, and before you know it, you'll have turned this post into that now missing tutorial which will benefit those who come after you with the same issue.

 

And you would most likely be working on your back that is nothing like working under a car that is on a lift so you can stand up, turn and articulate your hands easily.

I hope to God that I am dad when those pipes rot out on my car.

Is this rot from road salt or rot from not changing the coolant?

 

Thanks for the picture. Very helpful! Got the car transported to my house. They are rusted pretty bad. Gonna tackle it on my own, no way to access from the bottom, need to go from the top. I will update this with pictures and a procedure. The rust is from 12 years in lovely Chicago Winters where the roads turn white. Not from the snow but salt

 

Modmini has a video on changing the oil filter housing gasket and a different one for the starter. You may be able to get to from the bottom and wheel wells. Might be able to remove the clamps from the filter housing (you do not see them from the picture), disconnect the pipes over on the driver side and then pull them out through the passenger side wheel wheel.

 

Lived in Central New York, know all about salt.

 

I concur. Looks like there's a bracket that the pipe connects to on the driver's side of the pipe assembly. The second hole on the passenger side of the pipe assembly is not connected to anything. Not sure what the bracket is connected to... maybe the block? Regardless, get that one bolt out, disconnect the two ends from the oil cooler side, then the two on the driver's side, then fish it out the passenger side wheel well.

 

If you don't mine me asking, where did you find that diagram? Maybe my Google skills aren't as good as yours? I started pulling things apart yesterday. I think uncoupling the hoses and backing out the bolt from the top are the only way, and fishing out through passenger well like mentioned will get it. Thanks again for the advice.

 

Traced it out of a RealOEM cooling system diagram.

The hoses on the oil cooler side are very easy to get to via removing the plastic liner in the passenger wheel well. Not sure on the driver's side. The bolt holding it to the bracket might have to be accessed from the top with an arrangement of ratchet wobble extensions and universal joints - whatever gets you there. I'd give it a soak with some PB Blaster first though, as you don't want to snap it off.

 

most of the line is visible from the bottom , if you remove the power steering cooling fan it gives you alot of working room

when going back together do not use the spring clamps , use screw clamp and tighten with socket but don't over do it

and yes working on a lift is much much better ..............