2009 R56 has just shut off a couple of times while on the road. No codes.

Not aware of any commonality. Once was after about two hours on the highway in heavy rain at night, once was after about ten minutes during a nice day.

Both times, coasted to the shoulder & tried to restart. Engine turns over but doesn't run. After 5-10 minutes sitting it starts normally & runs fine for a few weeks.

Has anyone had a similar issue? Likely causes?

Thanks in advance.

 

Dirty fuel filter.

Failing/Faulty HPFP (High Pressure Fuel Pump)

Faulty Electrical.

Throw a reader and see if there’s a code.

 

Any other symptoms / driveability issues, hesitation, power loss, poor mpg ??

 

Nope. Just comes out of the blue.

 

No codes on a generic consumer reader. I'll take it by our mechanic's shop to have them check with a 'real' one.

 

There is a thread in the R55 Clubman section where this same thing has been happening to the owner. It was last traced to a faulty relay within the ignition system - nothing that showed on scan tool. They had to go hunting for it. It was not expensive to have the dealer do it - just an odd ball situation. Check out the thread and you may find your answer!

look for threads started by Jeffair10.

 

Check your air filter assembly. Once had the airbox filled with rat poison pellets.

 

WTF, but why?

 

Just the motor turns off or the entire electrical system?

mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer

 

That happens to me once on a suburban. Nobody could figure it out. It was trial and error. Gas cap? Fuel filter? We replaced the air flow sensor and that fixed it for awhile. Seems like it was some sensor that helps the engine have the correct combo of fuel and air. Good luck!

 

Bad spark plug installation. the spark plugs might be loose.

 

Have you found your problem? I’m having the same issues on my 2010 r56. It’s not throwing any codes. A few months ago when I started having issues it threw a p113b and couldn’t find out what is was or any info on it. Since then I’ve replaced the fuel filter, hpfp was already replaced a few months earlier, and currently I’m in the process of changing out my chain and the tensioner to see if it has anything to do with the shut off issues. Anybody have any of the same symptoms as op? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Mini mania has that listed as intake air temp sensor reading too high.

 

Would the intake air temp sensor cause the vehicle to shut down? We originally thought it was a temperature issue so since the thermostat had a minor crack on it we put a new one on along with a new temp sensor. The MAF was also replaced. The car ran great for a day or two and then started having the same issues but the engine ran at normal temp. As soon as we get the new chain on I will test the IAT sensor and the boost sensor. I will do more research on the intake air temp and hopefully will come up with a solution to our problem.

 

Have you checked the LPFP?

This was also replaced in my R60s

 

The pressure to the HPFP from the LPFP was tested and came up normal.

 

The code I was getting was a P113b not a P0113. Would that still have anything to do with the intake air temp?

 

How about the LPFP to the engine

 

I don't believe that was tested. Thought the LPFP only fed the the HPFP? Also, wouldn't that throw a code? Misfire or something?

 

This may sound dump and stupid. did you check the battery connectors? I remember someone have similar issue and it turns out was a lose terminal connector

 

It didn’t throw a code but it made the engine sputter and idle really rough

 

I'll check the battery later today. Ill make sure the wires and all good. I can check the LPFP but it won't be for a little while. Def post an update

 

Hey, I know a lot of people have been having the same issues with their R56. Welp so have I. My car kept stalling while driving for about 20 mins and at speeds of like 40+mph. I too thought it was the high pressure fuel pump as well as my coworkers (I work at a dealership). Took my car to BMW/MINI specialists and they found that the aftermarket thermostat housing that was installed was not providing accurate readings to the vehicle's computer. So my car was shutting off because the thermostat housing was telling the computer that the car was overheating (but it wasnt) so it shut off to save its self. And that is why there weren't any check engine lights! And also why I would have to wait 5-10 mins to start the car. They installed the OEM thermostat housing and it works fine now. That was my solution. Hope this helps!

 

Someone sent me a PM asking if we had found a cause and I figured I should update the original thread in case anyone else was looking.

For us, it was the "fuse box". It seems like a misnomer to call this a fuse box. I think I took some photos of the inside, but I can't find them. Anyway, in addition to holding all the fuses, there were a couple of printed circuit boards inside, so it's more like a "power control computer". My guess is that there was either a cracked solder joint or a bad IC inside, but replacing the whole thing was about a $500 repair, most of which was the part, at our independent mechanic, but we had to wait for a hard enough failure that the car would stay inoperative before they could find it.

 

I had the same thing with a 2012 roadster. Was told it was a computer fault that shut of the fuel pump intermittently. $1200.