R53 will not turn over
R53 will not turn over
Hi at first this was intermittent and now I cant get the car to stay starting at all but I am able to push start the vehicle.
When I put the key into ignition everything is fine and the power steering lighs all work but the car will not crank or try to start. I know its not the battery or ignition switch so not sure if the grey EWS is bad somehow or the starter motor just complety quit. I lifted the car up and hit the starter motor with a metal rod but still no luck I have the interior taken apart and cant find the problem or where to begin honestly
Thanks
When I put the key into ignition everything is fine and the power steering lighs all work but the car will not crank or try to start. I know its not the battery or ignition switch so not sure if the grey EWS is bad somehow or the starter motor just complety quit. I lifted the car up and hit the starter motor with a metal rod but still no luck I have the interior taken apart and cant find the problem or where to begin honestly
Thanks
If it is not the proverbial engine ground strap, you might need a burlier metal rod. The trick of bashing an intermittent starter works best with a ball peen hammer, and with a helper twisting the ignition key. You can whack an old school starter hard, but be careful on the Mini as everything is scaled down to diminutive size. It is a dangerous trick so be careful.
Hi at first this was intermittent and now I cant get the car to stay starting at all but I am able to push start the vehicle.
When I put the key into ignition everything is fine and the power steering lighs all work but the car will not crank or try to start. I know its not the battery or ignition switch so not sure if the grey EWS is bad somehow or the starter motor just complety quit. I lifted the car up and hit the starter motor with a metal rod but still no luck I have the interior taken apart and cant find the problem or where to begin honestly
Thanks
When I put the key into ignition everything is fine and the power steering lighs all work but the car will not crank or try to start. I know its not the battery or ignition switch so not sure if the grey EWS is bad somehow or the starter motor just complety quit. I lifted the car up and hit the starter motor with a metal rod but still no luck I have the interior taken apart and cant find the problem or where to begin honestly
Thanks
Sorry to make more sense the first time it happened we push started it to get me home, then at home it started up fine again and worked all the next 2 days then yesterday it didn't start at work, push start, got home and tryed to start it and nothing, I found in the engine bay one 5A fuse was blown ( F5) and replaced it and then boom it works.. but I tryed to go to school this morning and now I can't get it to start at all
also anything that I could try bypassing to rule that as a possible problem so I am not buying stuff and then not being the problem..I wish I could just know if its the starter but no way to know for sure until i remove it.
There is a way to but requires proceed with abundance of caution. Lost of property, injury, or death can result is the disclaimer. The sure way is to measure the voltage at the big + terminal of the starter while cranking. If there is no click at all you will also need to monitor the small + terminal of the starter too.
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I know it was mentioned - but have you double checked the ground strap in the bay on the passenger side? It's entirely possible that it's just not making a good connection.
I had the same symptoms after my head swap and visually saw that the strap was connected so I didn't bother checking that it was properly tightened. I could bump start and it ran fine, electronics turned on when I put key in ignition, but when I turned the key I got nothing. Took it to the dealer because I thought it was the EWS. $150 later, they tightened my ground strap and everything was great.
I had the same symptoms after my head swap and visually saw that the strap was connected so I didn't bother checking that it was properly tightened. I could bump start and it ran fine, electronics turned on when I put key in ignition, but when I turned the key I got nothing. Took it to the dealer because I thought it was the EWS. $150 later, they tightened my ground strap and everything was great.
is there a thread or picture that shows how where i look on the actual starter to check the terminals with a multi meter... I have done a lot of work on the Mini but never with the starter so pretty noob to that part.
Pelican Parts has some really good how-to's with great pictures and step-by-step instructions.
Yep, be sure to check out our detailed starter replacement DIY here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm.
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yep thats the one I found so I know what to check but found this video and right at the start he talked about the wire that goes between the solidnoid and the motor and his is disintigrated and when I had my car in the garage I lifted it up and noticed mine looked bad but never took a pic, I want to take a picture but now I am home alone til 6pm and cant push it my selfinto the garage... I hate my life!
well im guessing that even though its a different ignition switch maybe its bad somehow or the EWS is bad because the videos I watch and forums seem to suggest that since my starter isnt doing anything (clicking or spinning) its probably not getting the power so who know where the problem part could be
I will confirm this tonight as I do not have a mutimeter with me but getting a cheap one tonight
I will confirm this tonight as I do not have a mutimeter with me but getting a cheap one tonight
All the sudden its know ones doing somethings has just gone bad on it this week... but like I said it could be anything and maybe the key even though it chimes like normal the only single key that the guy I bought it from over a year ago is in bad shape but nothing like this has happened before. its been over a month since any real work has been done except I just changed spark plugs and wires
ok so got some reading done..
at the motor on the larger bolt where the postive meter is on I get 12v when off and when trying to crank the engine over
at the small one and the twisted copper wire that connects the solinoid to the motor I get 0v when off and when cranking the engine... does this mean the motor is bad or no. and I didnt know how i can check my ignition switch to see if this is why I am getting no power to the little nut.
I saw a video on using the multimeter on the wires coming from the switch but it was an older bmw so does anyone know what cord goes to the ignition or starter motor(color)
if the switch checks out does this mean the EWS is bad or something else
at the motor on the larger bolt where the postive meter is on I get 12v when off and when trying to crank the engine over
at the small one and the twisted copper wire that connects the solinoid to the motor I get 0v when off and when cranking the engine... does this mean the motor is bad or no. and I didnt know how i can check my ignition switch to see if this is why I am getting no power to the little nut.
I saw a video on using the multimeter on the wires coming from the switch but it was an older bmw so does anyone know what cord goes to the ignition or starter motor(color)
if the switch checks out does this mean the EWS is bad or something else
If you are getting 0V at the smaller nut when cranking, that points to your starter is likely good (unless there are a double fault). You next need to check the relay that supplies the power to this solenoid. On the Mini the ECU has logic that dictate if it allow the car to be started. This includes if the clutch pedal is depressed, and I believe the anti theft prevention too . Do refer to the Bentley manual, which I believe has some descriptions.
I just tryed jumping from the big upper nut to the smaller nut and sparks flew and for a split second the motor spun and lights dimmed in the car. so is this a problem from the circuit and power not going to the small nut
repling to pnw post,
now the first place I want to start is ignition switch, anyone know what voltage should be coming from the 5 wires under the ignition switch while cranking. theres 2 red in middle which always have 12v then the rest a green, black/blue on top, and then a black/purple on bottom
the next thing is the clutch safety switch, ever since I got the car this must be broke because I could always start it without depressing the clutch. but I cant find anywhere how to test the switch or bypass it and see if that is stopping the car.. (i dont mind buying a new one just want to make sure because it will take a few days to arrive at least.
if not these im going to bet my EWS or the grey box is bad
now the first place I want to start is ignition switch, anyone know what voltage should be coming from the 5 wires under the ignition switch while cranking. theres 2 red in middle which always have 12v then the rest a green, black/blue on top, and then a black/purple on bottom
the next thing is the clutch safety switch, ever since I got the car this must be broke because I could always start it without depressing the clutch. but I cant find anywhere how to test the switch or bypass it and see if that is stopping the car.. (i dont mind buying a new one just want to make sure because it will take a few days to arrive at least.
if not these im going to bet my EWS or the grey box is bad
That is something that you never should have attempted. Doing so can fry the smaller gauge wire and/or the relay. That is why I said "abundance of caution".
I understand and its not something I wanted to do but this might confirm the motor is ok but need to know what the ignition and clutch switch
Ill look the the bently book but doubt Ill find what I am looking for but never know
Ill look the the bently book but doubt Ill find what I am looking for but never know
If you have a high mileage Mini, it is possible you have a intermittent and worn out ignition switch in the steering column. I recall other owners have replace it, and not too expensive. Do a search on the forum.
I believe I solved it did this found on this site and engine does crank, that is pretty stupid that something like this goes I dont understand that but I really hope its not the 425 price tag this place says or I am going to be really upset
http://support.rpmmotorsport.net/art...MOTORSPORT-LTD.
http://support.rpmmotorsport.net/art...MOTORSPORT-LTD.


