I figured I would bring my problems here to the correct forum. Pete (or as it stands now, PITA) has just over 100K miles. The timing chain and tensioner have been replaced about 1000 miles ago.

First off it has no AC. The compressor burnt up because the low speed fan resistor bit the dust. The compressor is not locked up, but there is no resistance to turn it. So would it be plausible to buy the clutch/coil replacement? In lue of getting a new compressor?
BTW I have fixed the LSF by installing an Arcol resistor - a big THX! to the posters in the Gen 1 thread about getting a fix for that. Fixing the LSF did not bring my AC compressor to life, obviously.

The most pressing issue is now PITA is dead. CEL is on, solid. It died on me a couple times while in transit, including once while doing 85 on the Penn Turnpike. Not enjoying semis flying by me, I called AAA to set up a rescue. They told me 30 -45 minutes. Around 10 minutes in, I tried starting the car, and it fired up! I crossed my fingers and cancelled AAA, still having an hour of driving to go. It didn't skip a beat.
Next morning I left for work, it was running great - for about 15 minutes. I left a stop light, got on it a little bit, made to 70 MPH and and the engine quit. I pulled over and sat there for a bit. Then tried starting it. Upon the 3rd time of pressing the button, the battery gave up the ghost. Called AAA, towed it back home. Once back from work I ran to NAPA and got replacement battery. Threw it in, still dead.

I have ordered a Foxwell unit to get codes, etc, and it arrived at my house today. But I am an hour and 15 minutes way, stuck at work. Had to drive my trusty Ford Focus ZTS to work today

I am putting my $ on a failed low pressure fuel pump. What do you all think?

 

In my experience - Classic fuel pump related and low battery.

 

Well I fixed the low battery issue. And crap, the Foxwell is just giving me P1777 and P1776 codes which I believe have to do with the TPM module. It has had that issue from day one. Don't know if it's the tires or the rims (they are Mini rims) that is the problem. But that is not the reason the car won't start.
I found a test for the HPFP on the Foxwell, and when active, it seems to have fuel going through it.
Very disappointed that it didn't give a code(s) for whatever the problem is..

 

There are pressure values for both the low and high pressure pumps. So with the scan tool this is an easy check. If the voltage is solid with a new battery - the only other item I remember from mine is a faulty coolant temp sensor which was causing issues. Waiting for full codes to display will be frustrating - as the driveability suffers long before codes appear.
Stay at it. Good luck

 

Thanx, but I don't have a drive-ability issue, as it won't start. I went into OBDII mode and did an active mode. FUELSYS1 went OL as I cranked the starter. FUELSYS2 didn't change value at all, tho not sure if it should.

 

Ok, back at it this morning, rainy, crappy 55 degrees. Anyway, I hooked the scanner to it again, but it didn't give me any new codes. So I stuck the fob in the slot, pressed the button, and it tried to fire. Hmmm.. I removed the key, let the car reset. Then re-inserted the key, let the car boot, hit the button once, let the car boot some more, hit the button and it started! Not only that, the CEL went out too. So it idled for about 5 minutes, then just quit, CEL back on. I scan it again, no new codes. But I did put the scanner back in OBDII mode, and did the live monitor. I noticed that when I would crank the engine, the FUELSYS 1 showed "OL" (Open loop, as noted above) and CEL still lit
So I did the patient startup again, and it started again, with the scanner attached. Now, with the car running, the FUELSYS 1 showed CL (Closed Loop, I presume). It ran for about 10 minutes before shutting off.(CEL) I waited approx. 3 minutes, did the patient thing, it started. This time I monitored temps, RPMs, etc. leaving the car running for around 20 minutes. It was responding properly, so I took it for a spin - took it out on Rt. 11, and ran it up to 115 MPH, nary an issue.
The car seems ok now. Could it be that the ECU/DME needed some time to recognize the new battery? And throwing a fit until it adjusted?

 

Well, not out of the woods by any means. It still shuts off mid drive, and sometimes will not restart.
Getting some new codes: P0420 Catalyst system efficiency below threshold, And it spewed another one that said something about BANK 1 CO sensor fault. NO codes concerning fuel loads/issues yet though.

My wife is very disappointed. I am too, albeit to a lesser degree. I love the car, it is basically a refined version of our Princess, w/o the option of dropping the top.

Here is the time line:
We bought the car on Friday, the 22nd,
The next morning the AC quit working. LSF restistor was toast. This in turn burnt up the AC compressor. Replaced the toasty w Arcol resistor - still no AC
2 days later the car quit on me while driving (CEL came on and now stays on) Tho I was able to get it restarted.
The next day, the car dies on me again, and the battery goes kaput - need towed home
$150 later, w a new battery and the car seemed ok.
But the next day the car dies on me again. Received the Foxwell scanner but not getting any fuel related codes yet.
Now it's sitting in the driveway, and won't fire.

What should we do? Inside a week and the car is dead. The car is under the HPFP warranty, but since it is a rocket or nothing - no rough idling or misfire, I doubt it is the HPFP.

Our current thoughts are to call the dealer and tell them to either fix the car and give it back, or simply take the car back and give us our coin back.
What would you do?

 

Here are the codes I have gotten from the Foxwell NT510

1. P0420: Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold: Bank 1

2. A0B2: not present. CAS: Supply, terminal 30E/30L:

3. Switch air conditioning system: EWS enable; not present. Status: terminal 50: not active

4. CF32: not present. EGS Interface ABS/ASC/DSC wheel speed FL

5. CF33: not present. ABS/ASC/DSC wheel speed FR

6. 93FB: not present. No message (vehicle speed ) from DSC, ACSM / MRS receiver / DSC transmitter

I believe the latter 3 have to to do with the Tire Pressure Management system that has said "Not Initialized" on the steering wheel since day 1.

 

confirming that you have a new battery installed and that you have cleared old codes. These are all new and active recent codes?

 

Yes the new battery is in, and working properly, and I have cleared the low voltage codes.

After work yesterday I went out and hooked the scanner to it and hit the button. It fired up first try, but the CEL was still present. It ran for maybe 20 minutes, as I scanned various parameters, then it shut down. And I could not get it started the rest of the evening. Occasionally it would try - like for a milli-second, but not start.

 

It does seem like symptoms of fuel pressure and coolant temp sensor. You may have luck getting the dealer to cover those for a "good will" repair or the bill may be offered a 3 way split between BMW/you/and the dealer.

 

Thx for the reply. The "dealer" is not a MINI dealer specifically. He sells a bunch of BMWs, Caddys, Mercs and higher end domestic brands.

Each day that goes by with our 8K investment sitting in the driveway taking up space, instead of enjoying it, is quite dis-heartening.

 

Finding a trusted support system for parts and service quotes is the biggest hurdle to enjoying these cars. Once you do the legwork to sort that out - repairing the car will be easy in comparison. You have so many years of driving ahead to enjoy with this one. If the local shop can't cut it - call the BMW/Mini care line. Find an OEM dealer that you can work with, seek out the regional DM and get to know the service manager and parts managers. They are all capable of helping - you just have to get to know them. Bring donuts, fill out the surveys and communicate with them at every step. You will end up knowing your car better than the staff. Print out the SIMS and recall stuff, be friendly and help them with your tools. At the end of the day it can be a win-win for you and the dealer. Do the dance, be grateful along the way and you will be golden!!

 

BTW, what in the codes I listed point to a coolant temp sensor malfunction?

 

In my experience - Its part of the dance between voltage, fuel trim, ignition timing and drivability. Its often the ignored component in the mini equation and the cheapest to look at.Techs are quick to want to replace 02 sensors and they never take the time to monitor the temp in real time with their scan tools during diag. Its part of the thermostat plastic housing on minis, but many other BMW,Audi and VW have them stand alone. You'll be replacing that part eventually when it leaks - take a peak at it and avoid the hours of diag time at the shop.

 

Well PITA just got hauled off to the dealer.
And wouldn't you know, I put the key in the slot and pressed the button to be able to move the shifter to neutral, and it fired up Unbelievable.

So I drove it up onto the flat bed. But the CEL was still lit, and I guarantee it will quit on the mechanic - if it starts back up.

We'll see how the next few days go.

 

If its a clutch car did you check the clutch pedal safety switch. IF yours is an automatic transmission- I have seen people spill coffee on the shifter assembly and it caused issues with the neutral safety switch right under the cup holders. Both of these cause NO STARTS, but neither would explain that the car die at speed while driving. Back to HPFP on that part of the equation. If your car dealer can't handle all of this, you may have to go to a proper Mini Dealer. In this case the more "expensive" place could be cheaper than a local sales place that doesn't work on these cars every day. Lots of nuances.

Either way, at 8 k purchase price, you still have plenty of repair cost room before your on the wrong end of it. Plenty of people in these cars over 10k and have reliable and fun experience.

 

It is an automatic, it has to be if the wife is to drive it. I would, and plan to get a 5/6 speed MCS in the future, for my enjoyment.


We thought $8K was a fair price for the 09 Clubman. It''s not perfect, but pretty clean. It had 99,898 miles on it when it left the lot. The Carfax showed the timing chain/tensioner having been replaced at 98K miles, so that was a plus. I knew something was up w the AC, because of the screaming fan pulsing on and off when the AC was on.

The dealer, Yalcars, Youngstown, OH, called me when the car got there yesterday. He told me that he would not unload it until we understood that we are responsible for repairs his mechanic might need to do. Well, that doesn't sound like a shared deal. He went on the say that he uses a shop in Akron (Hudson, actually) who does the "hardered" work on his BMW's and MINI's And that shop is none other than Lerich Motorsports, whom we know well because of our Princesses convertible' s issues. They completely dropped the ball on the roof deal, but seem well versed in the engine department.
My wife and I are are going visit Yalcars today. And basically, if they are going to put us on the hook for the whole repair bill, we will simply have the car towed to Lerich ourselves - *IF* it's not something simple, or the HPFP.

 

sounds like you are getting closer. There is a SIM file that explains what to do with the ac. It involves putting a collar on the suction line to prevent collapse. Part numbers and methods are listed. Given you have an auto, the neutral safety switch is likely cause of no start.

 

The AC compressor has no resistance, and it's because the LSF resistor crapped out and that burned out the clutch in the compressor. I plan on replacing the clutch/coil in the next few weeks.

The dealer's mechanic called me today, which changed our minds about going to see them today. He said the P0420 code means faulty (broke or plugged) O2 sensors. He said that is my problem, either the upstream or downstream or both are faulty. He said he would try to clean them to clear the code, but with 100K+ miles on the car, they should be replaced. He said he would replace them (Bosch part) and just charge for the part(s) and not the labor.
He even said that a plugged 02 sensor could shut the car down mid drive.

Is that true?

 

I have never heard of a faulty 02 causing a no start situation. They monitor EGT for fuel trim, mpg and efficiency.
I would take any free work you can get from them and go to a real dealer.
i remain hopeful for you- just maybe not with that wrench. He can monitor 02 efficiency with scan tool and prove its faulty and not guess it's faulty.

 

If when we get the car back, and it still strands me on the road somewhere, we will take it to Lerich Motorsports. They do nothing but BMW/ MIINI's and have a good rep. Not cheap, but not true dealer prices either.
One would think that a dealership that primarily sells MINI's, Bimmers, Mercs and Caddys has a scanner that does more than a standard OBD II reader does. Yet he told me that the only code he was getting was the P0420 code. My Foxwell gave me many more, though they seemed to point to the faulty AC and TPM issues.
Thanx for your input. We shall see if we get Pete back, or continuation of PITA.

 

Let us pray that he doesn't cut the wire harness and splice in some generic 3/4 wire aftermarket 02 sensors. Suggest to him that you want to keep the old parts. When the car gets sorted you may be better putting the factory originals back in. I'll ask around to my friend group and see what others suggest that have been in a no start situation. Keep the faith! You'll be rocking the miles within the week somehow!

 

The "no start" is one thing, but the grin you get when the car fires up, and feel ready to rock n roll, it really sucks when the ride dis's you in transit. It becomes a trust issue.

 

We got the car back today. The dealer changed out the lower (after the cat) O2 sensor, and the CEL went out. And it seems to be running properly now. Though tomorrow I will attempt to take it to work, a 63 mile jaunt, primarily down the Penn Turnpike at 80+ mph. That will be a good test.
They gave me the old sensor, and it was mega dirty. $125.99 for the new Bosch sensor.

Hopefully we have Pete back in business. If so, onto tackling the AC compressor, and figuring out why the Tire Pressure Management wont initialize.