2009 MiniCooper ATF Problems
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From: San Diego
2009 MiniCooper ATF Problems
Having a flare at 3-4 in my 6 speed auto base hatchback. That is, the RPMs jump coming out of 3rd then I slam into 4th. If I get off the gas before I know that the shift is coming, I can slip into gear no problem. Car has 114,000 miles.
Doing a drain and fill, referring to Mini ATF Change.pdf but had some questions... I think this applies to my transmission although I'm not 100% sure.
According to the quote below, if I have the car level and on, if the bottom drain is open with the stand pipe in place and a cold engine, I shouldn't see any ATF spill out? Is that really true?
Once the car starts up and ATF gets to get operating temperature, I'll see it starting to spill out as the fluid expands?
Once it hits the 100F range, I should only see a little spill and I should close it up at that point?
Doing a drain and fill, referring to Mini ATF Change.pdf but had some questions... I think this applies to my transmission although I'm not 100% sure.
According to the quote below, if I have the car level and on, if the bottom drain is open with the stand pipe in place and a cold engine, I shouldn't see any ATF spill out? Is that really true?
Once the car starts up and ATF gets to get operating temperature, I'll see it starting to spill out as the fluid expands?
Once it hits the 100F range, I should only see a little spill and I should close it up at that point?
How to measure the proper ATF level
This procedure is a LOT easier if you have OBD access to the temp sensor inside the tranny and can take a reading. If not, the directions below SHOULD work just fine. I know this is a wall of text but really, there is no other way to say it without covering it. It's not that hard when you figure out how the pan and the stand pipe works.
1. The car needs to be absolutely cold
2. The car needs to be perfectly level on the ground. The entire fluid level check procedure depends on this. Do NOT overlook this.
3. NEVER have the fill bolt off with the car running! If you start the car with the fill bolt off, it will start puking ATF. I have learned this by staining my garage floor with 3 quarts of ATF which spilled out in a matter of seconds.
4. Take the drain bolt off ONLY. Do NOT take the stand pipe out.
If tranny fluid drains, let it drain until it stops and proceed to next step
5. Grab a kitchen thermometer or any other means to measure temperature
Digital is best because it offers instant reads
6. Start the car. With your foot on brake, go R, N,D pausing at least 2 seconds in each and then from D back to N, R and P.
7. Go back under the car and watch for when ATF starts to run out. Be ready with the thermometer
8. As soon as you see ATF coming out, take a temperature reading of the ATF (NOT the pan) by letting the ATF run over the thermometer. ATF needs to be between 35*C and 45*C, which is 95-113*F.
9. If you see ATF coming out that's at that range, you're good to go. Put the drain bolt back on asap.
Here is the idea. Mini says that at that temperature range the ATF should be at the height of the stand pipe that is inside the drain hole. If it is over, it is overfilled and it will spew out and you'll know it. If it is underfilled, the ATF will never reach the height of the stand pipe and you will never see it drain out.
ATF level changes based on temperature
Now that you know this:
-if you see ATF come out right away, it is overfilled
-if you see NO ATF come out after the car has idled for a while, you can touch the transmission pan with the thermometer and see what temp it's at to get an idea if you've waited enough or not. Based on the temperature outside, basically after about 5 to 10 minutes of idling, that ATF by all means should be at the temp quoted above. If it doesn't come out, you are low on fluid. Shut the car off and you have 2 choices.
a) You can warm up the bottles of ATF fluid at 45*C/113*F under hot water in the sink and start filling the transmission until you see it start coming out the drain bolt
OR
b) Wait until the car is cold and then top off with cold ATF like above. Keep in mind this will likely get you to overfill it but it should not be by a severe amount AND you can always follow the previous steps to get it to drain.
This procedure is a LOT easier if you have OBD access to the temp sensor inside the tranny and can take a reading. If not, the directions below SHOULD work just fine. I know this is a wall of text but really, there is no other way to say it without covering it. It's not that hard when you figure out how the pan and the stand pipe works.
1. The car needs to be absolutely cold
2. The car needs to be perfectly level on the ground. The entire fluid level check procedure depends on this. Do NOT overlook this.
3. NEVER have the fill bolt off with the car running! If you start the car with the fill bolt off, it will start puking ATF. I have learned this by staining my garage floor with 3 quarts of ATF which spilled out in a matter of seconds.
4. Take the drain bolt off ONLY. Do NOT take the stand pipe out.
If tranny fluid drains, let it drain until it stops and proceed to next step
5. Grab a kitchen thermometer or any other means to measure temperature
Digital is best because it offers instant reads
6. Start the car. With your foot on brake, go R, N,D pausing at least 2 seconds in each and then from D back to N, R and P.
7. Go back under the car and watch for when ATF starts to run out. Be ready with the thermometer
8. As soon as you see ATF coming out, take a temperature reading of the ATF (NOT the pan) by letting the ATF run over the thermometer. ATF needs to be between 35*C and 45*C, which is 95-113*F.
9. If you see ATF coming out that's at that range, you're good to go. Put the drain bolt back on asap.
Here is the idea. Mini says that at that temperature range the ATF should be at the height of the stand pipe that is inside the drain hole. If it is over, it is overfilled and it will spew out and you'll know it. If it is underfilled, the ATF will never reach the height of the stand pipe and you will never see it drain out.
ATF level changes based on temperature
Now that you know this:
-if you see ATF come out right away, it is overfilled
-if you see NO ATF come out after the car has idled for a while, you can touch the transmission pan with the thermometer and see what temp it's at to get an idea if you've waited enough or not. Based on the temperature outside, basically after about 5 to 10 minutes of idling, that ATF by all means should be at the temp quoted above. If it doesn't come out, you are low on fluid. Shut the car off and you have 2 choices.
a) You can warm up the bottles of ATF fluid at 45*C/113*F under hot water in the sink and start filling the transmission until you see it start coming out the drain bolt
OR
b) Wait until the car is cold and then top off with cold ATF like above. Keep in mind this will likely get you to overfill it but it should not be by a severe amount AND you can always follow the previous steps to get it to drain.
As a rule of thumb, put back same quantity that came out.
Your transmission will drain about 3.5qrts which is waaaaaay above the stand pipe. So i think the safest way is put back what came out.
The draining isnt enough. You should replace the ATF filter inside the pan.
Lastly, the flare are due to dirt in the valve body passages.
Hope this helps...where are you located?
Your transmission will drain about 3.5qrts which is waaaaaay above the stand pipe. So i think the safest way is put back what came out.
The draining isnt enough. You should replace the ATF filter inside the pan.
Lastly, the flare are due to dirt in the valve body passages.
Hope this helps...where are you located?
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From: San Diego
I'm in San Diego.
Well I did the refill twice now. No big difference in performance as of now. I set the level according to the instructions here.
If a flare is due to dirt, should I try a flush before a valve body?
Well I did the refill twice now. No big difference in performance as of now. I set the level according to the instructions here.
If a flare is due to dirt, should I try a flush before a valve body?
how often are you reflushing? how bad is the fluid color ? did you replace the filter? did you clean the two magnets in the pan?
When i bought a transmission and not long after installation, it stopped shifting. I took the valve body to cleanup and sure enough there were some stuck check valves and dirty filter. although I cleaned it and check the solenoids, the clutch pack in the transmission was seized.
When i bought a transmission and not long after installation, it stopped shifting. I took the valve body to cleanup and sure enough there were some stuck check valves and dirty filter. although I cleaned it and check the solenoids, the clutch pack in the transmission was seized.
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From: San Diego
Yeah, I got the car for extremely cheap because of this issue and another one. Seller had no idea what was wrong, he's just been living with it.
I got a quote for $1800 from AAMCO for a a valve body replacement... I'm going to take it to a local transmission shop to see how they diagnose it. A couple of other shops have been quoting me about $500-$700 for labor if I bring the REMAX valve body in.
I'm going to keep driving it for a week to see if it improves after the new fluid. Wondering if a flush would help or not...
I got a quote for $1800 from AAMCO for a a valve body replacement... I'm going to take it to a local transmission shop to see how they diagnose it. A couple of other shops have been quoting me about $500-$700 for labor if I bring the REMAX valve body in.
I'm going to keep driving it for a week to see if it improves after the new fluid. Wondering if a flush would help or not...
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the flush might help, but i wouldn't get too excited.
personally, it is relatively an easy job to replace the VB. i think there are a couple on ebay that could be cheap too.
when my transmission took a dip (other reasons), i went to a junk yard and got me a 600 transmission. 12hrs later, the car is on the road running.
if you are mechanically inclined, i would suggest take the VB out and take it apart and clean it. put it back and see if that fixes the issue. you can do that right from the bottom of the car.
remove the middle motor mount, jack it a bit to get access to the 30 torx screw and you're good to go. buy a concrete mixing bed from HD and let the fluids gush there.
personally, it is relatively an easy job to replace the VB. i think there are a couple on ebay that could be cheap too.
when my transmission took a dip (other reasons), i went to a junk yard and got me a 600 transmission. 12hrs later, the car is on the road running.
if you are mechanically inclined, i would suggest take the VB out and take it apart and clean it. put it back and see if that fixes the issue. you can do that right from the bottom of the car.
remove the middle motor mount, jack it a bit to get access to the 30 torx screw and you're good to go. buy a concrete mixing bed from HD and let the fluids gush there.
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: San Diego
Unfortunately I'm mechanically relatively incompetent.
In my struggle to get the torx free and then closed in the fill hole. I'm pretty sure I damaged the thermostat somehow as now I'm getting a P0128 engine code! Ugh.
A mobile mechanic offered to do the valve body for $280-$350, not sure if it's worth it to do that or just take it to a shop.
In my struggle to get the torx free and then closed in the fill hole. I'm pretty sure I damaged the thermostat somehow as now I'm getting a P0128 engine code! Ugh.
A mobile mechanic offered to do the valve body for $280-$350, not sure if it's worth it to do that or just take it to a shop.
You have to run through the numbers and see if it is worth it. worst case scenario, you buy another transmission for 500 with even less miles 
and have a mini enthusiast install it for you for some cash...
check car-part.com for parts
and have a mini enthusiast install it for you for some cash...check car-part.com for parts
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From: San Diego
Yeah I've been doing a lot of reading on the issue, it seems to be:
1. Try changing fluid twice.
2. ATF fluid might be getting into the wire harness, try cleaning that out.
3. Valve body might be screwed so that might be a replacement
4. Replace entire transmission
Thinking if I should just skip everything and head directly to a complete tranny replacement. I guess the only thing is, if I do that, there is no guarantee that I won't just end up at the same place in not too long.
1. Try changing fluid twice.
2. ATF fluid might be getting into the wire harness, try cleaning that out.
3. Valve body might be screwed so that might be a replacement
4. Replace entire transmission
Thinking if I should just skip everything and head directly to a complete tranny replacement. I guess the only thing is, if I do that, there is no guarantee that I won't just end up at the same place in not too long.
you are correct BUT, lets say you were to buy one, you should be looking for a low mileage one, and once you have it, you replace the filter and ATF.
The issue in general as you know is that ppl don't know that ATF should be replaced every so many miles. only when it the trans starts acting funny, ppl react to the issue. and by then, it MIGHT be late.
the torx screw im referring to is a small one holding the pan. it isnt as tight as the 55 torx you're talking about.
here is my thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...need-help.html
The issue in general as you know is that ppl don't know that ATF should be replaced every so many miles. only when it the trans starts acting funny, ppl react to the issue. and by then, it MIGHT be late.
the torx screw im referring to is a small one holding the pan. it isnt as tight as the 55 torx you're talking about.
here is my thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...need-help.html
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: San Diego
This looks pretty attractive if it can fit a 2009.
https://www.allmagautoparts.com/coll...24007638575-27
https://www.allmagautoparts.com/coll...24007638575-27
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From: San Diego
Yeah, I found it based off that link you posted, car-part.com
So you think the tranny will fit but not sure if it'll actually work?
Attached a picture of the car, sad it's not 100% but will slowly get there.
Edit:
This one is available for $1,100 shipped that's a 2010 with 45k miles on it... might be a better pick?
So you think the tranny will fit but not sure if it'll actually work?
Attached a picture of the car, sad it's not 100% but will slowly get there.
Edit:
This one is available for $1,100 shipped that's a 2010 with 45k miles on it... might be a better pick?
Last edited by FlyPenFly; Aug 31, 2017 at 03:44 PM.
Yeah, I found it based off that link you posted, car-part.com
So you think the tranny will fit but not sure if it'll actually work?
Attached a picture of the car, sad it's not 100% but will slowly get there.
Edit:
This one is available for $1,100 shipped that's a 2010 with 45k miles on it... might be a better pick?
So you think the tranny will fit but not sure if it'll actually work?
Attached a picture of the car, sad it's not 100% but will slowly get there.
Edit:
This one is available for $1,100 shipped that's a 2010 with 45k miles on it... might be a better pick?
Try to fine same years 2007 to 2010
The key is that before you install the transmission, get the oil and filter replaced.100k with no service is a lot. So hopefully with a young transmission and regular service it will last much longer. Best of luck and keep us posted.
Check rmeuropean.com for cheap atf and filter ;-)
Check rmeuropean.com for cheap atf and filter ;-)
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Joined: Sep 2007
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From: San Diego
Well here's where I'm at.
Missing 4-6 got worse no matter the fluid level.
Local BMW Transmission specialist has quoted me $3,000 to replace the valve body with a 1 year warranty. Or $1,200 for the labor to install a transmission supplied by me, no warranty.
Local AAMCO has quoted me $2,350 for a used transmission install with a 1 year warranty.
I think I might just go for the AAMCO warrantied option.
Missing 4-6 got worse no matter the fluid level.
Local BMW Transmission specialist has quoted me $3,000 to replace the valve body with a 1 year warranty. Or $1,200 for the labor to install a transmission supplied by me, no warranty.
Local AAMCO has quoted me $2,350 for a used transmission install with a 1 year warranty.
I think I might just go for the AAMCO warrantied option.
2350 is a killer for me, brother...Find a local mechanic shop and get a quote from them. they might source a used transmission with a warranty from a yard and install it for cheaper. the point is to get more quotes before you pull the plug.
LKQ seems to have a cheap collection. see if a shop can buy it from them and install it.
LKQ seems to have a cheap collection. see if a shop can buy it from them and install it.
Thread Starter
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1st Gear
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 45
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From: San Diego
Yeah, what a pain.
So here are my options:
$2,350 for a year warrantied used transmission
or
$950 + used transmission I can find from a local shop
I guess I have to figure out if $1,000 is worth it for a year warranty. Also the local shop isn't a transmission specialist. Dude is convinced that programming is required to make it work. I know we need to reset the computer but I don't think other "programming" is needed?
So here are my options:
$2,350 for a year warrantied used transmission
or
$950 + used transmission I can find from a local shop
I guess I have to figure out if $1,000 is worth it for a year warranty. Also the local shop isn't a transmission specialist. Dude is convinced that programming is required to make it work. I know we need to reset the computer but I don't think other "programming" is needed?