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Stock Problems/IssuesDiscussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.
2005 MCS Convertible with 71K miles and original control arm bushings. The rubber is cracked and they look like they’ve leaked (see pics). Will be putting in Poweflex. Looking for input on the cutoff method vs pre-pressed from Way Motor Works. FWIW I have the M7 Under Strut System, not sure if it would interfere with either method.
I have tried the cutoff method, only to be thwarted by not even getting the inner ball joints off. The problem comes from the pickle fork hitting against the frame, thus, not being able to pop the joint. I'm going to try again next weekend with 2 pickle forks to see if that works. I have tons of work I plan on doing next weekend so Scarlet will be in front end Maintenance Mode. Let us know what you decide and how it works our for you?
May the Force be with you......
We've tried all the methods of doing the control arm bushing as we of course are a shop and the faster we can do the job the more profitable it is. I can say that we still have found dropping the subframe in the rear and taking the brackets with the bushings off is the easiest and fastest. Trying to pull the control arms usually damages the ball joints then increases repairs, let along often found stuck ball joints that take way more time to get apart than you want to spend.
Dealer just told me it was time to replace lower control arm bushings on my '05 R52 (94K miles). Unfortunately, I've learned to second guess everything they tell me...
Can I inspect them with just a floor jack, or does it need to be on a lift? Am I looking for anything other than obvious damage -- cracks, etc?
I have a non-Mini service station that I do trust. Is this a job they should be able to do? Dealer's quote was $882.50...
Dealer just told me it was time to replace lower control arm bushings on my '05 R52 (94K miles). Unfortunately, I've learned to second guess everything they tell me...
Can I inspect them with just a floor jack, or does it need to be on a lift? Am I looking for anything other than obvious damage -- cracks, etc?
I have a non-Mini service station that I do trust. Is this a job they should be able to do? Dealer's quote was $882.50...
With 94k it's really normal to need control arm bushings as they actually wear out every 40k. But don't let the shop put the rubber ones back in. Go with the powerflex and you'll never have to replace again. Also they are easier to install so they will like that too. https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...shing-kit.html
Dealer just told me it was time to replace lower control arm bushings on my '05 R52 (94K miles). Unfortunately, I've learned to second guess everything they tell me...
Can I inspect them with just a floor jack, or does it need to be on a lift? Am I looking for anything other than obvious damage -- cracks, etc?
I have a non-Mini service station that I do trust. Is this a job they should be able to do? Dealer's quote was $882.50...
That's a good price for the dealership, look for a good Indie shop to see what price they quote you. I was quoted $1100 to do mine. They will drop the sub-frame to get it done, you may want to have them change the inner ball joints while they are in there..
We've tried all the methods of doing the control arm bushing as we of course are a shop and the faster we can do the job the more profitable it is. I can say that we still have found dropping the subframe in the rear and taking the brackets with the bushings off is the easiest and fastest. Trying to pull the control arms usually damages the ball joints then increases repairs, let along often found stuck ball joints that take way more time to get apart than you want to spend.
Has anyone ever cut the bolts on the bracket and switch direction of the nut and bolt so you don't have to drop the sub etc.?
Thanks
Has anyone ever cut the bolts on the bracket and switch direction of the nut and bolt so you don't have to drop the sub etc.?
Thanks
No, never seen anyone try that as the bolts are pretty close to the body and would be really hard to cut off. Not to mention how much work it would be to drill out the bolt in the threads and replace it.
I just removed lower control arm. The used sazall or however you spell it. Cut out old bushing. Mad a cheap tool from home depot an pressed back in an reassembled. Not hard at all. I used power flex bushing aswell.