So I am working one issue at a time on my (new to me) 2009 Clubman S. When I purchased it the A/C was not working and it had a pretty bad oil leak. Both of these issues have now been corrected. I have also installed new plugs and did an oil change.

What I am working on now is the famous reduced power check engine light. I know that it could be many things and I would like to scan the car to get info on where to start. But my scanner (bosch obd 1150) Can not read the code for that light.

I have read about the scan gauge II but I am not 100% sure it can read it either. I am also looking at Carly for BMW. For the Carly can I use any Bluetooth adapter or does the new version require the carly dongle?

Any other suggestions that could help read this code?

thanks!

 

Carly will work with most OBD dongles for diagnostics, except for some of the deeper items like freeze frame data. The app claims the adapters are not compatible with that feature. (I thinks it’s a load of crap, but whatever) I haven’t had any problem reading out codes with my generic dongle and the Carly app.

Where are you located? Maybe there is a forum member nearby that can help out?

 

I am located in Houston TX... NW / Cypress area..

That is what I have been reading, that most dongles will work. But I would just like to know for sure that it would read the 1/2 power light issue.. I did use my odb 1150 to record some data again this morning. Maybe when I get a change to look at it is shows something..

 

Well, after reading about all the options for scanners I purchased the carly for bmw dongle and app. It was able to read all the fault codes.

turns out that the faults were all old. Once they were cleared the half power light went away. Took it for a test drive and now have full boost.

And the bonus was I got to code my locks to operate how I like them.

 

LOL spoke too soon... got the 1/2 power light again. I am thinking maybe boost leak or the wastegate needs adjusting. When I fixed the oil feed line leak, I did verify that the wastegate functioned and looked OK but I did not verify the travel. When I manually moved the wastegate it moved closer to 3/4" to 1" than the 1/2" (8mm) it should be (found the specs thanks to the forum)

Faultcode: Boost pressure
Faultset 1:
(appeared at: 157432.0km)
Intake (tans):
35.25 °C
Condition wastegate active (B_ldr):
1.00 -
Pressure upstream from throttle (pvd_w):
1432.00 hPa
Target pressure before the throttle (pvds_w):
1728.00 hPa
Faultcode: Boost pressure
Faultset 2:
(appeared at: 157432.0km)
Intake (tans):
35.25 °C
Condition wastegate active (B_ldr):
1.00 -
Pressure upstream from throttle (pvd_w):
1432.00 hPa
Target pressure before the throttle (pvds_w):
1728.00 hPa
Faultcode: Boost pressure
Faultset 3:
(appeared at: 157432.0km)
Intake (tans):
35.25 °C
Condition wastegate active (B_ldr):
1.00 -
Pressure upstream from throttle (pvd_w):
1432.00 hPa
Target pressure before the throttle (pvds_w):
1728.00 hPa

 

So, you are not getting boost out of the turbo... either waste gate or boost leak somewhere...?

 

So just to follow up.. I took everything back out and looked at the exhaust side of the turbo. It was shot... The waste-gate bushing would move all over, the actuator arm would move 1/8" before pulling shut and the wate-gate flap was all over the place. Needless to say it was gone..

So I took a week to decide if I just wanted to replace the housing, buy a new turbo or upgrade. I ended up replacing the stock turbo with a new JCW turbo. All is good in the world and the boost is great!

Now its on to the headlight that just went out, the thermostat issues that just popped up and the TPMS system..